Subaru Overheating - can't figure out why

[dcbpe]

Hello all, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here.

 

I have a 2000 OBK Limited, 2.5 liter, that started overheating last week. On my way to the office one day (46 miles commute), the temp gauge spiked about 5 miles from home. I pulled over, and luckily had some water in the car to pour in. As I was heading home (to switch cars) the temp gauge leveled off. I decided to head for the office, thinking the water did the trick. I made it to the office, and back home that evening w/o a problem.

 

Next morning, same thing happened, about 2 miles from home. I turned around and switched cars. I assumed it was a stuck thermo, based on the not working and then all of a sudden working that happened. I have no idea when the radiator system was last flushed, but I know I did not do it when I changed the thermo/w-pump/timing belt about 8 thousand miles ago (my bad, I know).

 

So I decided to buy a new thermo and flush the system. I drained the system from the thermo housing and drain screw, and did the flushing process sanz thermo.

 

When I removed the thermo a bunch of dirty water and stuff came out, so I felt confident that my diagnosis of a stuck thermo was correct.

 

After the flush, I installed the new thermo, reinstalled all coolant, and let the car run 20 minutes (per directions on flush bottle). The car reached normal temp and stopped. I even drove it around the block and the car felt great (I had taken the opportunity to change the oil/filter too).

 

Then this morning I get about 2 miles from home and the temp spiked. WTF? was my first thought.

 

I switched cars again and haven't popped the hood yet.

 

Any ideas? The car I keep switching to is a 2004 Sentra with a bad water pump and no thermostat...it doesn't overheat on my commute, unless it takes more than an hour .

 

Thanks...

[johnceggleston]

Hello all, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here.

 

I have a 2000 OBK Limited, 2.5 liter, that started overheating last week. On my way to the office one day (46 miles commute), the temp gauge spiked about 5 miles from home. I pulled over, and luckily had some water in the car to pour in. As I was heading home (to switch cars) the temp gauge leveled off. I decided to head for the office, thinking the water did the trick. I made it to the office, and back home that evening w/o a problem.

 

Next morning, same thing happened, about 2 miles from home. I turned around and switched cars. I assumed it was a stuck thermo, based on the not working and then all of a sudden working that happened. I have no idea when the radiator system was last flushed, but I know I did not do it when I changed the thermo/w-pump/timing belt about 8 thousand miles ago (my bad, I know).

 

So I decided to buy a new thermo and flush the system. I drained the system from the thermo housing and drain screw, and did the flushing process sanz thermo.

 

When I removed the thermo a bunch of dirty water and stuff came out, so I felt confident that my diagnosis of a stuck thermo was correct.

 

After the flush, I installed the new thermo, reinstalled all coolant, and let the car run 20 minutes (per directions on flush bottle). The car reached normal temp and stopped. I even drove it around the block and the car felt great (I had taken the opportunity to change the oil/filter too).

 

Then this morning I get about 2 miles from home and the temp spiked. WTF? was my first thought.

 

I switched cars again and haven't popped the hood yet.

 

Any ideas? The car I keep switching to is a 2004 Sentra with a bad water pump and no thermostat...it doesn't overheat on my commute, unless it takes more than an hour .

 

Thanks...

 

this is a classic description of a head gasket failure. '00 - '02 2.5L engines are prone to head gasket failure in the form of coolant leaking out on the rear of the engine probably on the driver side. you may be able to continue driving it as is if you add coolant every day.

 

the 96 - 99 2.5L engines would fail with an internal leak into the coolant. and as the leak got worse you couldn't hardly drive the car at all. the internal leaks would deposit black oily exhaust gunk into the coolant. did you see any of this??

 

depending where you are the repair may run from 1000$ to 2000$.

 

how mnay miles on the car? how long have you had it? don't let it over heat too much or you colud cook the bearings. if and when you have the work done you need to make sure to use a subaru head gasket, not some off brand company.

[dcbpe]

this is a classic description of a head gasket failure. '00 - '02 2.5L engines are prone to head gasket failure in the form of coolant leaking out on the rear of the engine probably on the driver side. you may be able to continue driving it as is if you add coolant every day.

 

the 96 - 99 2.5L engines would fail with an internal leak into the coolant. and as the leak got worse you couldn't hardly drive the car at all. the internal leaks would deposit black oily exhaust gunk into the coolant. did you see any of this??

 

depending where you are the repair may run from 1000$ to 2000$.

 

how mnay miles on the car? how long have you had it? don't let it over heat too much or you colud cook the bearings. if and when you have the work done you need to make sure to use a subaru head gasket, not some off brand company.

 

 

Well, I hope that's not it.

 

I've never seen a leak under the car, even last night while it was flushing (I was under the car looking for leaks), never smell coolant in the exhaust, and had no coolant in the oil when I changed it. I've never had to periodically fill the radiator before.

 

Now, there was a bit of black in the coolant when I flushed it out, it didn't appear oily and didn't float, it sank. Actually, the coolant fluid looked a lot cleaner than I'd expected despite the bit of gunk that came out with the thermo. Total volume of "black stuff" was maybe 2 shot glasses in coolant that hasn't been changed since IDK.

 

I'm fearful that I may have blown the gasket now though, I had to drive it home 2 miles this morning, and it was smoking like a m-fer when I parked it. I'm gonna go home and fill 'er up and see what happens.

 

Could it be the transaxle? The transaxle fluid hasn't been changed in IDK either, so maybe it's superheating the radiator? This theory is based on the fact that the car ran just fine through 2 flush cycles (w/o thermo), and then ran fine once complete just idling in the garage. Driving it around the block took maybe 3 minutes.

 

It seems like the car moving has something to do with it.

 

 

The car has 135300 on it, I'm the original owner January 2001.

[svxpert]

<<After the flush, I installed the new thermo, reinstalled all coolant, and let the car run 20 minutes (per directions on flush bottle). The car reached normal temp and stopped. I even drove it around the block and the car felt great (I had taken the opportunity to change the oil/filter too).>>

 

how did you refil your coolant exactly?

[johnceggleston]

yeah, i hope it's not the gaskets either. did you have any work done to the car just prior to the first over heat.

 

usually these things develope slowly and initially they leak rather slowly too. it is surprising that it overheated so quickly after the flush. what svx is referring to is, if you did not "burp" the cooling system correctly after the flush and refill, it may have an air bubble in it. that will cause it to overheat.

 

the external head gasket leak is usually on the rear of the engine between the head and the block. (duh) i don't think it is unusual for there to be no drips on the car or ground. just a wet, damp, discolored, maybe oily spot, i don't really know. it leaks so slowly, as long as you top it off all the time, you can still drive it. one recent post told of a guy who would pour the over flow tank coolant into the radiator every morning and afternoon before he drove it.

 

if you haven't had any work done recently which contributed to the first overheat, it is possible that the 'after the flush' overheat was due an air bubble.

 

if you search here for burp or coolant refill or something similar you will find the instructions for the proper filling to avoid an air bubble.

 

 

http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html

 

.

Edited October 19, 2009 by johnceggleston

[dcbpe]

@svx

 

I removed the thermo and ran the flush liquid through, running the car up to normal temp (gauge at just below midpoint) and then for another 10 minutes with heat on high. Then I drained it and ran it with water the same way. While the drain screw and lower radiator hose were still off, I ran another half gallon through the radiator. Then I installed the thermo and filled the radiator...took 2 gallons...and then ran it for 20 minutes per the flush bottle directions "to mix the coolant". I also put coolant in the overflow tank just slightly above the "low" line.

 

It seems to me it would have overheated during those 20 if I had shorted the coolant, yest? Plus, I think the capacity is 9.4 quarts, and 8 filled it...I figured that maybe there was some water still inside. Could that be an air bubble big enough to cause overheating on a 2 mile drive?

 

 

@John

No, no work done "recently". I did the timing belt about 8k back, and also did the thermostat and water pump at the same time. Of course the cooling system was mostly drained at that time, but it wasn't flushed.

[dcbpe]

Ok, so I've got the car running. Filled the radiator from the upper hose, left the cap off to let the bubble out. It took almost a gallon (put about a pint back into overflow) but I have no idea how much may have boiled off this morning.

 

It ran for about 15 minutes at operating temp, didn't go above it's normal just below mid-way.

 

There is no wetness at the back of the motor BTW.

 

I turned the car off to put the kids to bed, but then I'm gonna go back outside and see if the system sucked anything out of the overflow.

 

No one had an opinion on my transaxle theory...is that just not possible?

[svxpert]

<<No one had an opinion on my transaxle theory...is that just not possible?>>

 

your a/t temp light would come on before you overheated the coolant in the trans cooler.

as for your overheating problem, you didn't fill/bleed the air out of the system correctly so you may (most likely) have an air pocket in the coolant system. you can also develop a head gasket issue if the air pocket hasn't been resolved.

[dcbpe]

<<No one had an opinion on my transaxle theory...is that just not possible?>>

 

your a/t temp light would come on before you overheated the coolant in the trans cooler.

as for your overheating problem, you didn't fill/bleed the air out of the system so you may (most likely) have an air pocket in the coolant system. you can also develop a head gasket issue if the air pocket hasn't been resolved.

 

So, I filled the car up again...with the front end raised (not hard to do, driveway is on 30% slope), I waited for air bubbles to escape. It ran for at least 20 minutes with the rad cap off; steam was coming out, air bubbles had subsided, temp gauge was still normal. I put the cap on and waited another 10 minutes to see if the gauge went up, it didn't.

 

I took the car out for a spin...a 1 mile round trip around my house...started overheating before I got home. Lower and upper rad hoses both hot (so it's circulating), lot's more bubbles escaping through reservoir.

 

I parked it, popped the hood and (very) carefully removed the rad cap to release the pressure (with the front end up). Started it up again and the temp was normal as it sat there idling. Not 1.5 minutes earlier it was pinned at hot.

 

Totally don't think it should be this hard to get air bubbles out of a coolant system. If so, as an engineer, I blame the engineer that designed this thing. Am I wrong?

 

I hate to bring it to a mechanic, but I may be forced to.

[johnceggleston]

So, I filled the car up again...with the front end raised (not hard to do, driveway is on 30% slope), I waited for air bubbles to escape. It ran for at least 20 minutes with the rad cap off; steam was coming out, air bubbles had subsided, temp gauge was still normal. I put the cap on and waited another 10 minutes to see if the gauge went up, it didn't.

 

I took the car out for a spin...a 1 mile round trip around my house...started overheating before I got home. Lower and upper rad hoses both hot (so it's circulating), lot's more bubbles escaping through reservoir.

 

I parked it, popped the hood and (very) carefully removed the rad cap to release the pressure (with the front end up). Started it up again and the temp was normal as it sat there idling. Not 1.5 minutes earlier it was pinned at hot.

 

Totally don't think it should be this hard to get air bubbles out of a coolant system. If so, as an engineer, I blame the engineer that designed this thing. Am I wrong?

 

I hate to bring it to a mechanic, but I may be forced to.

 

it sounds like you are re-filling it correctly, or at least close enough. and you are right, it shouldn't be that hard. so if it's not an air bubble, and a gasket leak would have to be the size of a golf ball to overheat that fast, what is causing this??

 

blocked radiator, or fans not working? do the fans run when it warms up? do they come on when you turn on the AC? did you use a subaru t-stat?

Edited October 20, 2009 by johnceggleston

[89Ru]

I know from experience that its possible to put a OEM tstat in backwards, however not all models allow this blunder. Proper direction is thermostat springs oriented toward the water pump. When I had the tstat backwards the electric fans would not shut off, engine at idle.

[svxpert]

<<So, I filled the car up again...with the front end raised (not hard to do, driveway is on 30% slope), I waited for air bubbles to escape. It ran for at least 20 minutes with the rad cap off; steam was coming out, air bubbles had subsided, temp gauge was still normal. I put the cap on and waited another 10 minutes to see if the gauge went up, it didn't.>>

 

yeah, you need to research how to properly bleed the air out of the system like john had advised.

 

<< parked it, popped the hood and (very) carefully removed the rad cap to release the pressure (with the front end up). Started it up again and the temp was normal as it sat there idling. Not 1.5 minutes earlier it was pinned at hot.>>

 

letting the engine temp rise to the red is never good. each time this occurs, headgasket integrity gets compromised.

[dcbpe]

it sounds like you are re-filling it correctly, or at least close enough. and you are right, it shouldn't be that hard. so if it's not an air bubble, and a gasket leak would have to be the size of a golf ball to overheat that fast, what is causing this??

 

blocked radiator, or fans not working? do the fans run when it warms up? do they come on when you turn on the AC? did you use a subaru t-stat?

 

The fans do come on, but I didn't try turning on the AC. In fact, the fans came on last night, after I popped the hood and restarted the car after the overheating trip. As for a blockage in the radiator, I suppose that's possible but I didn't feel any warm spots...again, I was feeling the radiator moments after the car had been overheated (the fans were on).

 

Unfortunately I must admit I did not use a Subaru thermo. Duralast. The Outback is my primary car and I really can't afford to be w/o it for long, knowing that my back up vehicle has a bad w-pump (it overheats if it's not moving, how ironic!). I bought a new thermo on my way home from work on a Friday and changed it Saturday...I had no time to order the proper Subaru part.

 

And while I normally would do that, I can't see how it would be the thermo...the water is circulating and reaching (but not exceeding) operating temp when parked.

[ronbp]

 

I'm fearful that I may have blown the gasket now though, I had to drive it home 2 miles this morning, and it was smoking like a m-fer when I parked it. I'm gonna go home and fill 'er up and see what happens.

 

 

Lots of white smoke out the tailpipe that's kind of sweet smelling? And you have to keep adding water when there is no external leak? There's a head gasket problem or a crack...

 

IMHO.

 

Ron

[dcbpe]

Lots of white smoke out the tailpipe that's kind of sweet smelling? And you have to keep adding water when there is no external leak? There's a head gasket problem or a crack...

 

IMHO.

 

Ron

 

Nope. No sweet smell or smell of coolant in exhaust. Just smells like exhaust.

 

Years ago I blew a head gasket on a Chevy Blazer...I knew to smell for that, and I'm honestly baffled that it's not there.

[bheinen74]

this does sound like a headgasket leaking. hopefully not and sorry if thats it.

[johnceggleston]

in my limited opinion, based on the way these temp gauges work, they are little better than idiot lights. i don't know the temp ranges, but basically they don't move from normal move at all until a certain temp, and then when they do move, they spike. there is very little difference between normal and hot. just my opinion.

 

the car idling at standard operating temp will not over heat unless the cioolant level drops. it just does not create that much heat, I THINK. but when you drive it, the amount of heat it must disperse goes up dramatically. so you have a problem but at idle it isn't enough to over heat the system.

 

i would test it by letting it idle in the driveway on evening and then shutting off and letting it cool. check the level in the morning. if it has a leak, the level will go down over time. if you have to drive it, remove the t-stat. this will also let you check the coolant level over several days.

[ronbp]

Well, losing water, overheating, and lots of smoke are typical of head gasket problems (even though it may not smell like it).

 

Pull the spark plugs and inspect them, one may be obviously different looking. Do you have or can you borrow (Autozone lends tools but I don't know about one of these) a cooling system pressure tester? While the plugs are out hook up the tester, pressurize the system to @12lbs or so and let it sit overnight. In the AM turn the engine over with a wrench on the crank pulley bolt and see if water gets pushed out a plug hole.

 

As for other odd-ball reasons for the overheating...I've seen the impeller break off a water pump....I've seen it where the lower hose to get sucked together at medium high rpms. At idle it's fine. (That's why most lower hoses have that "spring" in them.)

 

I'm doing head gaskets on a Ford 4.0L right now...it was losing water, there would be puffs of white smoke occasionally and it would run rough when cold but it wasn't overheating or over-pressurizing the water system. But pulling the plugs and finding water in #3 cylinder sealed the diagnosis.

 

Ron

[ferret]

Unfortunately I must admit I did not use a Subaru thermo. Duralast.

 

I would replace the thermostat with a Subaru one from a dealer AND ensure it's installed properly. More than once I have seen this.

 

Here's a link to similiar thread, albeit a Forester, but the engines are the same ..... and so were his symptoms.

 

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/2001-forester-running-hot-after-timing-belt-wp-replacement-61858/

[dcbpe]

I've learned that Subaru has an additive for it's coolant.

 

When I changed the w-pump & t-stat 8000 miles back, I did not use the additive in the coolant, nor did I use it when I flushed the system last week.

 

Until I took it upon myself to change the timing belt and other items back in July the only mechanics to ever work on the car were dealers. I would assume that they knew of the HG problem that SoA was "fixing" with the additive, and that they were adding it all along.

 

So, could this be my problem?

 

EDIT: I found this>> http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/CoolantInsidEWMay05.pdf

 

The coolant I put in my car is Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant, which on the back of the jug claims to be "phosphate free"...the exact opposite of what the the End Wrench article says should be used.

 

I shall be purchasing my coolant and additive from the Subaru dealership, changing out what's in their now, and I'll let you all know how that goes.

 

Keep yer fingers crossed, I have zero time to change a head gasket and zero money to pay someone to do it....

Edited October 24, 2009 by dcbpe

[Fairtax4me]

The additive is a conditioner for the head gaskets and other various seals in the cooling system. It should not affect it's cooling ability.

 

Having the car overheat in such a short distance is usually air trapped in the system or a stuck thermostat.

I would also remove the hoses and check for possible internal damage that could be causing a blockage.

 

Just for gits and shiggles pull the spark plugs and check for signs of abnormal combustion. White ash deposits, wetness, or dark discoloration could all be signs of a failed head gasket.

[subuaroodude]

Unfortunately head gasket problems are just part of owning a subaru. Using oem t-stats are a must...and adding an auxilary temp gauge and sender ( best quality you can find ) is a good idea as the subaru temp gauges are as poorly engineered as their cooling systems ( just check your owners manual description of how the gauge should read ) I hope this is not the case, good luck

[danrenfroe2016]

Take it to a Subaru Dealer.... My Dad just took his 2002 Legacy Outback into get the oil changed at 96,000 at Subaru of Plano. They informed him that the Head gaskets were leaking. She said that this engine has a Block Casting defect and that Subaru would repair it free of Charge. They are changing out the head gaskets now.

 

So I would take it in, Have them change the oil, They will check to see if there is oil floating in the coolant or if there is coolant in the oil... either way there is chance you will get free head gaskets.

 

-Daniel

Edited October 25, 2009 by danrenfroe2016
spelling

[svxpert]

<<and adding an auxilary temp gauge and sender ( best quality you can find ) is a good idea as the subaru temp gauges are as poorly engineered as their cooling systems>>

 

care to explain?

[motorking]

Hi,

I am the technical training manager for Prestone coolants. Our coolant is compatible with Subie cooling systems even though it does not contain phosphates. We have other corrosion inhibitors to make up for the lack of phosphates.

The follow service bulliten will help you battle the dealer to get your car fixed. They are well aware of the issue you have. The pictures and tables will not ost here, if you want the full TSB, send me an email at Jay.Buckley@Honeywell.com

NUMBER: WWP-99

 

DATE: 02/2004

 

APPLICABILITY:

2000-2002MY Subaru Legacy and Outback;

1999-2002MY Impreza; 1999-2002MY Forester

 

SUBJECT:

Engine Cooling System Conditioner

 

INTRODUCTION

 

Subaru of America, Inc. (SOA) has determined that over time, affected vehicles may develop small external coolant leaks at engine cylinder head gaskets. This is the result of normal expansion and contraction of engine components caused by the heating and cooling of these parts. To prevent cylinder head gasket leaks from developing or to correct existing leaks, a special Subaru Cooling System Conditioner should be added to affected vehicle cooling systems.

 

This Service Program will involve adding one bottle of Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner to the engine cooling system.

 

AFFECTED VEHICLES

 

2000-2002 MY Subaru Legacy and Outback with 2.5L engine.

 

1999-2002 MY Impreza with 2.5L engine.

 

1999-2002 MY Forester with 2.5L engine.

 

Affected vehicles are identified in the VIN range chart below. Only vehicles with a 2.5L engine are affected.

 

NOTE :Prior to performing repairs, confirm coverage for potentially affected vehicles by using the Vehicle Coverage Inquiry in the Dealer Communication System (DCS).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vehicles identified in the preceding chart may include VINs that were not distributed in the U.S. market. Dealers will be provided a list of VINs that include the owner name and address. This information will enable dealers follow-up with owners of potentially affected vehicles. These listings contain owners names and addresses obtained from State Motor Vehicle Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is unlawful. Accordingly dealers are urged to limit the use of this listing only for the purpose of completion of this service program.

 

OWNER NOTIFICATION

 

SOA prepare and mail an Owner Notification Letter to owners of the affected vehicles. Because of the number of vehicles affected and parts availability, owner notification will occur on or about the dates listed in the following four stages.

 

1999 MY - February 16, 2004

2000 MY - March 1, 2004

2001 MY - April 1, 2004

2002 MY - May 3, 2004

 

A copy of the owner notification letter is included at the end of this bulletin.

 

OWNER REIMBURSEMENT FOR PREVIOUS REPAIRS

 

Owners are being advised in the owner notification letter, found at the end of this bulletin, that if they have previously paid an authorized Subaru dealer for repairs related to this Service Program, they may be entitled to reimbursement. The owners are further advised, to qualify for any reimbursement they must submit the original repair invoice to Subaru of America, Inc. Please review the owner notification letter, which explains this procedure so that you are familiar with it, and can assist owners with any questions.

 

FUTURE MAINTENANCE

 

In the future, it will be necessary to add Genuine Subaru Coding System Conditioner to the coding system of affected vehicles whenever the engine coolant is replaced. As a reminder, owners will be sent update pages with their notification letter that instructs them to add the pages to their Owner's Manual and Warranty and Maintenance Booklet Except for the initial application associated with this campaign, the cost of adding the conditioner is the owner's responsibility.

 

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET WARRANTY EXTENSION

 

For owners of affected vehicles that have this Service Program performed promptly, SOA is extending coverage under the Subaru Limited Warranty for cylinder head gasket external coolant leaks to a period of 8 years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first Warranty coverage begins on the date the vehicle was delivered to the first retail purchaser. If the vehicle was used as a demonstrator or company vehicle before being sold at retail, warranty coverage begins on the date the vehicle was first placed in such service.

 

As a further condition for this extended warranty coverage to apply, the owner must properly maintain the vehicle's cooling system in accordance with the recommended maintenance schedule and Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner must be added each time the engine coolant is replaced. Resulting damage caused by a lack of maintenance or low coolant level will not be covered. Replacement of the Cooling System Conditioner during inspection and maintenance services is not covered under warranty.

 

DEALER PROGRAM RESPONSIBILITY

 

Dealers are to promptly service vehicles subject to this Service Program at no charge to the vehicle owner regardless of mileage, age of the vehicle, or ownership.

 

For affected vehicles sold after the date on the dealer's computer list, dealers are to contact those owners and provide them with a copy of the owner notification letter. They should also arrange to make the required correction according to the instructions in the service procedure section of this bulletin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vehicles in Dealer Inventory

 

Dealers are also to promptly perform the applicable service procedures defined in this bulletin to correct affected vehicles in their inventory (new, used, demo). Additionally, whenever a vehicle subject to this Service Program is taken into dealer new or used inventory, or is in the dealership for service, necessary steps should be taken to ensure the Service Program correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.

 

New or used vehicles listed in a recall/campaign that are in dealer stock must be:

 

^ Immediately identified.

 

^ Tagged or otherwise marked to prevent their delivery or use prior to inspection and/or repair.

 

^ Inspected and/or repaired in accordance with instructions outlined in the Product Campaign Bulletin.

 

 

Any Authorized Subaru Dealer failing to perform the applicable service procedures defined in this bulletin to correct affected vehicles in their inventory (new, used, demo) prior to the vehicle being placed in service may be in breach of the Subaru Dealer Agreement.

 

PARTS INFORMATION

 

Subaru Cooling System Conditioner

 

Note :Subaru Cooling System Conditioner is packaged in cases that contain 12 bottles. Each affected vehicle requires one (1) bottle. Each case contains enough material to treat 12 vehicles.

 

Prior to the release of this Service Program, each dealer will automatically be shipped a quantity of Subaru Cooling System Conditioner equivalent to 40% of their vehicle sales, or up to a maximum of 20 cases.

 

Additional quantities of the Cooling System Conditioner will be available through normal parts channels after 2/15/04. In order to maintain an adequate part supply, SOA requests that Dealers only order quantities necessary to satisfy anticipated demand.

 

REPAIR PROCEDURES

 

The repair procedure involves adding Subaru Cooling System Conditioner to the cooling system. Follow the recommended procedure that applies to either a "Cold" or "Hot" engine.

 

Caution :The engine cooling system is under pressure and may he extremely hot. To prevent personal injury or vehicle damage he sure to take appropriate precautions while performing this procedure.

 

Service Procedure on a COLD Engine

 

NOTE :Impreza and Forester vehicle system components are shown in the images below, but Legacy and Outback models are similar. Consult your service manual for exact locations and illustrations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Install rags around the radiator filler neck to prevent coolant from contaminating the engine area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Take off the radiator cap and set aside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. Extract 125ml (4.23 oz.) of coolant from the radiator using a suitable device such as a piston syringe, meat or poultry baster, antifreeze hydrometer, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4. Place the syringe into the overflow reservoir and push the coolant out of the syringe.

 

5. Shake the bottle of cooling system conditioner until all contents are thoroughly mixed.

 

6. Pour the entire bottle of cooling system conditioner into the radiator.

 

NOTE :Do NOT pour the cooling system conditioner into the overflow reservoir. The conditioner Will settle at the bottom of the reservoir and not mix in the cooling system.

 

7. Reinstall the original radiator cap.

 

8. Remove rags from around the radiator filler neck.

 

9. Start the vehicle and let it run until the engine is warm. This ensures the conditioner circulates and there are no air pockets in the cooling system.

 

 

Service Procedure on a HOT Engine

 

1. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (engine off).

 

2. Turn the air conditioning "ON" to cycle the cooling fans. Leave the air conditioning "ON" for approximately two (2) minutes. This will lower the pressure in the cooling system.

 

NOTE :The pressure relief on a "HOT" engine is approximate. Caution should always be taken when removing the radiator cap on a "HOT" engine. Additional A/C "ON" time may be required to relieve cooling system pressure properly.

 

3. Turn off the air conditioning.

 

4. Return the ignition key to the LOCK ("OFF") position.

 

5. Follow procedure for COLD engine listed above.

 

 

RECALL CAMPAIGN IDENTIFICATION LABEL

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Type or print the necessary information on a Recall Campaign identification label. The completed label should be attached to the vehicle's upper radiator support.

 

CLAIM REIMBURSEMENT AND ENTRY PROCEDURES

 

Credit for performing this Service Campaign will be based on the submission of properly completed repair order information. Dealers may enter the applicable claim information through their Dealer Communications System.

 

Listed below is claim entry information:

 

Add Engine Cooling System Conditioner - Use the following information for claim submission:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Enter labor operation 122-801 for 0.2 labor hours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Enter the applicable part number. Parts will be reimbursed at dealer cost plus applicable handling allowance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disclaimer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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