Axle replacement, do the wheel bearings too?

[moped]

The driver's side front CV joint is making noise. I did some looking, and it sounds like I can take care of that by replacing the axle alone. Is that worth doing, or should I have somebody do it who can remove the bearing races from the steering knuckle and replace those as well?

 

Thanks!

 

Eric

[idosubaru]

nah, just do the axles.

[clunkerbob]

yeh ... probably just do the axle (s) . Thats one of those judgement calls how far to go with something . It can never end if you get carried away . I do my own work so I might elect to do the bearings if its got a zillion miles on it just as a preventative . If you are paying someone , then maybe best to save your money and do only whats absolutely necessary . A wheellbearing makes a rumbling sound ...... if you didnt hear that .... shine it on .

 

Bob

[GeneralDisorder]

Bearings are easy and cheap. ALWAYS have at least one set + seals on hand when doing axles anyway as occasionally the inner bearing will come out still attached to the old axle.

 

The bearings are simple - drift them out with a brass punch, and drive the new one's in with an appropriate driver or brass punch. I made a driver tool using a 2" pipe nipple + cap and an older outer bearing race that I cut in half and welded to the nipple. There is no press required for EA series bearings.

 

GD

[Pooparu]

I'd change the wheel bearings if I were you. I've done a couple dozen subaru axles now and it seems like almost always I have to go back and change the wheel bearings a few hundred miles later. So if you intend on keeping your subaru for awhile I'd change the bearings. They are cheap and easy to do and you'll save yourself some time in the long run.

 

Just so you know I always do wheel bearings when I do axles now.

[torxxx]

I do bearings on my ea82 once a year up front. they have gotten so cheap price wise that you cant go wrong. to do both sides and dust seals 4 bearings, 4 dust seals I think I spent maybe 80 bucks on parts and a tube of grease..... but then again my car gets driven a lot harder than prolly 90% of the cars on this forum. Daily driver/rally car/puddle stomper/hunting rig. it gets rode extremely hard and put away dripping wet lol..

[GeneralDisorder]

If you get your bearings from a bearing house, they are $12 each. I use the 6207-2RS-C3's (sealed) so no greese needed. The seals are $6 each at my favorite parts house. That's $72 total for both front's.

 

GD

[ericga]

Check this website for bearings.

 

http://bearingsdirect.com/store/index.php?l=search_list&s[search]=6207&s[title]=Y&s[short_desc]=Y&s[full_desc]=Y&s[cid]=0

 

You can use the 6207-'zz' rather than the 6207-'rs'. Good price at $6.95. You are putting seals on the hub so bearing seals are not an issue.

 

 

Eric

[GeneralDisorder]

Sheilded (ZZ or 2Z) will exchange grease with the bearing pocket over time. There isn't much grease in them to begin with and the pocket on the knuckles is quite large. I would not trust the ZZ's. Also the major contributing factor to bearing failure is moisture in the bearings - the 2RS sealed bearings are going to help keep water out of the bearings when the outer seals fail as they always do. There is just too much grit, dirt, grease, and water for the outer seals to last. They are the cause of ALL the front wheel bearing failures I've ever come across.

 

GD