coolskaterkid Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 so when taking off from a stop or shifting at a high rpm, let clutch out and i can feel it slip for 2 seconds before it grabs if i shift slow with no throttle on it no slip. Is there a spring thats worn out or the clutch cable not releasing or sticking in the housing. Its a new clutch kit. It did have problem with old clutch also. 84 gl wagaon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moped Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 A couple things: Did you have the flywheel machined when you replaced the clutch? Have you made sure there's enough free-play in the clutch adjustment? I've got 5-7mm at the end of the release fork, and I think that's about right. If you don't have enough, the clutch won't fully engage (it'll be just like if you were riding the clutch with your foot). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 yea fly wheel machined and plenty of free play it engages just takes a little bit it doesnt return as it should, my other cars pop up clutch quick and this one just seams like i would get half the clutch life with it taking a while to engage . Im thinking cable old and sticky in the housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clunkerbob Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Pretty much what moped already said . You need to check the free play on the clutch ... it sounds like you dont have enough . Was it a NEW clutch kit ? not a "rebuilt" pressure plate . I have had problems in the past with some of the rebuilt stuff out there . ( not neccesarily Sube but other makes ) Also is the clutch cable working OK ? Its possible the cable might be sticking inside the outer sleeve , rust , dirt or frayed cable . Not likely , but possible . Do some sluething and you'l find the problem but sounds like not enough free play to me . Bob You posted just as I did LOL ....... check the cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 as said plenty of free play atleast 3/4 inch if not more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clunkerbob Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 OK coolskater .... heres what I did on my old heap . I was able to squirt some motor oil into the cable and work it in . From both ends .. It was a pain but I got it freed up and the noise and gritty feeling was gone after driving it a day . Just a sugestion , but might work for you . Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolskaterkid Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 yea i lubed the pedal cluster but not cable will try in the morning when not snowing and if not i will replace cable i just wanted to make sure there was somthing i missed thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clunkerbob Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Its hard getting the oil in the cable . Use some pentrating oil first maybe , then engine oil , tranny fluid , anything , to get it loosened up . At least you'll know if you're on the right track if it seems to help . Then you can order out a new cable if youre sure it needs it . I hate spending money just shooting in the dark and troubleshooting . Good luck ! Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Lubricating the failing cable is asking for a disaster on some on-ramp down the line. The cables are about $18 from the dealer and take a whopping 15 minutes to swap out. If your clutch is really tight, or crunchy, or otherwise weird - swap the cable FIRST. It's usually the problem and it's cheap and easy compared to everything else. The inside of the cable sheath is lubricated by a dry-film lithium base lubricant over a nylon sleeve. When the sleeve wears out the stainless braided cable rubs on the metal sheath that's the next layer in the assembly. Eventually the cable will frey and wear through enough strands that it will just snap when you push in the clutch. Power shifting and starting the engine in 1st gear is not my idea of a good time and a really crappy way to save $18. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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