FatReggie Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Sorry all, I posted this in the wrong area. I am new so I am sorry if this has been answered elsewhere. I checked but couldn't find an answer. Dealing with replacing a timing belt and the crankshaft pulley (typical issue) BUT it appears 1/2 of the woodruff key broke off, allowing the pulley to wobble. No worries, I will replace it. The question is regarding the woodruff key and the crankshaft "sprocket". Does the woodruff key also align the crankshaft sprocket? How do you remove the crankshaft sprocket? I prefer not to muck it up as well, if at all possible but it doesn't seem to want to come loose. Any tips and/or hints would be much appreciated! Thanks! Ron ZYWEDALL replied: On the EA series engines, the crank pulley doesn't use the key at all -- it's just held on by the big center bolt, and sometimes two alignment dowels that go into holes in the sprocket (but usually not -- so you have to crank the heck out of that center bolt to make sure the pulley doesn't come loose) The sprocket is aligned by the key, and I don't think I've ever taken it off. But... the EJ22 might be different.... You could try posting this in the new generation forum where the EJ series engines belong and see if you get any answers there. TORXXX replied: This is a very common problem with the EJ22's I've fixed prolly 50 or 60 of these in my time. It happens from ppl not tightening down the crank pulley enough. The sprocket you are talking about is what I call the timing gear. the keyway is very important as it aligns the timing gear up in the correct spot so the Crank Angle Sensor has something to read off of. it also lines the crank pulley up also. usually when these things wear, they get slop on one side of the divet but stays straight on the other side. The timing gear will slide off the crank. sometimes they are a lil sticky due to oil/dirt/grime getting on there and it will make it feel like something is holding it on there. I usually put a flat head behind the gear and pry it away from the block. you need to becareful because that aluminum cover behind that gear is the oil pump. you dont want to crack that housing. When you put this back together you should have a new (newish used ) crank pully to put back on and another timing gear if the slot where the keyway rides is worn at all. The Keyway usually wont break (stainless steel iirc) it is only a half moon piece that will eat the crank and the pulley way before it will actually break its self. Can you get me some pictures of this if it did break the keyway (never seen it happen) When you are all done and going to torq down the crank pulley bolt, put some red locktite on there and tighten it down as much as you can using a 2 foot breaker bar. I replied: Zyewdall, thanks for the input. I tried to change the post after I noted it in the “classics” section (yes, I believe the older Subaru’s are classics and wish I had one – maybe someday). Torxxx, I don’t know how you found the thread but thank you very much for the information! I will use penetrating spray lube to lubricate the heck out of the keyway and the bit of key that I can see and see if I can work it loose. Any further suggestions would be greatly appricated and thank you from a newbie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Yes, it does align the crank shaft gear and pulley. Soak the gear to shaft with PB blaster or the like. Rust can jam them up pretty good. After a good soak, you can try two straight slot screw drivers one on each side of the back flange. Note, that the Oil pump is behind the pulley, so don't go crazy. If it does not move, the next step is the tap the front gear holes and use a puller. You said the key was damaged, have you removed as much damaged as possilbe on the key with a file? If you need a new gear and or pulley let me know I have some spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatReggie Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 Thank you Imdew! I will give that a try. The key broke off and the part that remains is under the sprocket - I can't get to it yet. I will let you know on the pulley and sprocket as well. I want to wait untill I get the sprocket loose to see how much damage there is to the sprocket and I hope there is none to the crankshaft. Shouldn't be, that's what the key is for but the way my luck is going on this one ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Yes even a little bit of rust will make it tough to get that sprocket off. Penetrating oil can help. Some people have rigged up a puller to get it off in really bad cases. Yes the key does secure this sprocket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawolf Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 2 jaw puller will work great. You can loan it from local Advanceautoparts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Hm.......where would the jaws go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawolf Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Hm.......where would the jaws go? My bad, i mean harmonic balncer puller(sprocket got to threaded holes for the bolts). Anyway i used 2jaw puller placing jaws behind the timing teeth, u gotta mess with it to find a position they will fit. Also have to be carefull to do not bent it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatReggie Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 The saga continues! Thanks for all of the advice from everyone. The sprocket was rusted on pretty solidly. My puller didn't work (years of abuse finally took their toll, and the threads stripped out) so I had to make one (budget's are tight these days) and I had enough "stuff" (O.K., junk) to make one up. It worked and I got the little bugger loose. The keyway on the crankshaft is chipped out (dang it!) so I will be checking for threads on how to fix or get around this. If you can point me in the right direction for the threads I would appricate it! Again, thanks to all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 I'd return the engine if its not usable! The keyway is the key to the timing for the crank sprocket. If its just the front of the keyway, you may get away with it as the torque of 125 ft lbs is enough to hold the pulley in place without to much stress on the keyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawolf Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 The saga continues! Thanks for all of the advice from everyone. The sprocket was rusted on pretty solidly. My puller didn't work (years of abuse finally took their toll, and the threads stripped out) so I had to make one (budget's are tight these days) and I had enough "stuff" (O.K., junk) to make one up. It worked and I got the little bugger loose. The keyway on the crankshaft is chipped out (dang it!) so I will be checking for threads on how to fix or get around this. If you can point me in the right direction for the threads I would appricate it! Again, thanks to all! You might have to talk to local machine shop gyus. Usually they have experiance in fixing messedup woodruf keys. hope they can work it out without taking crank off they engine. When i had this problem on a honda d15b engine i had to get crank out and than they make a shim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatReggie Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 Thanks for the input Seawolf. I hope I can work something out so I don't have to pull the crank. If I do, it might be time to decide how much to repalce the engine with a good used one or to find my son another mode of transportation. Yikes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatReggie Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Well, the saga is done. I found a reference to S-Wings Automotive (located near Denver Colorado) on another thread. A google search found a website and I asked if they had a kit. Mike seems to be the owner and he let me know about his kit. After some consideration of "shade tree" repairs (that'd be me doing something weird) and the kit I purchased the kit. Suffice it to say if you have this problem you might try tracking down S-Wings. No, I don't work for him or own the place. But the kit saved me a ton of trouble and the Subie runs great! Thanks to everyone on this site for thier input and suggestions. I hope I can return the favor in the future! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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