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95 Subaru Legacy Wagon


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Hey.... former Subbie owner shopping for a work wagon, and here for advice.

 

Current prospects are 95-97ish Legacy wagons. Under $2000 asking price.

 

All are auto, full power accessories.

 

Anything in particular to watch out for? What engine will be in these cars?

 

My previous Subarus were 80-84 era, with timing chains. Those cars rusted horribly but ran FOREVER!!

I had a couple of wagons and a 4 door sedan. Only the sedan was 2WD and it really had amazing pickup. The wagons... not so much. But I lived in Alaska at the time and 4WD really made them invaluable.

 

I'm hoping my updated Legacy will serve me as well as those older cars did. I have a couple I've called on, and hope to be driving one home today.

Any feedback will be appreciated.

 

Again, what warning signs do I watch for? And what engine series am I looking at? Are these Interferance engines?

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you should be looking at an EJ22..one of the most bullet proof motors made..next to the EA81..which btw..didnt have timing chains..they were pushrod... EJ22s should be non-interference..the 97 could be hit or miss with that..95-96 are definate.

Torque bind is a concern..just do slow tight circles and listen and feel for it... you will know if it has it. Also find out when the timing belt was done last..not that its a big deal..super easy to change.

 

Rust is the other thing with it being a philly car.

 

good luck

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Bucky92 covered all the important items.

 

Definitely best to get a '96 or earlier EJ22 since they are non-interference engines; '97 models went to interference heads for some reason. First timing belt change due at 105K; hopefully it was done with new waterpump at the same time. Ask for maintenance records if buying private sale. Torque bind can be an issue but Connie pointed out what to look for there. Back east rust is always an issue.

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Great ... I'm very glad to hear it won't be an Interference engine.

 

The target car is listed as a '95. Haven't seen the docs but I'll believe the ad about the year.

 

I've looked it over in the garage and it's a peach: 110k - one owner, garage kept.

 

The seller was on a delayed flight today and I've been put off til tomorrow. I'm very frustrated at this point but that has been the story of my current car search.

I choose to believe this car will be worth the wait and a reward for all the challenges I've faced.

 

(JUST VENTING HERE>>> Ignore if you'd rather)

I've gone to drive advertised cars that were too harsh to buy, had a price jacked up by a salesman $250 higher than what was written on the windshield, have communicated for days with another private owner that has a nice car but has no time to sell it... and now this guy's flight was 2 hours late.

 

I'm being patient, doing my diligence... there's gonna be a pay off eventually.

 

 

Torque Bind... is this a deal killer? What does it take to fix it?

(BTW I am very aware of the concern for consistent tire size. This is true on any 4WD. I'm anticipating getting new tires real soon, if the existing tires show much wear at all.)

Edited by rainman19154
more info and questions
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Torque bind would require replacing the tail shaft on the tranny.

 

also.. 110K miles..if it hasnt been done the car WILL need the timing belt, pulleys, tensioner and water pump..also probably swap out the cam seals since you would already be there.( you can pick up the timing belt kit on ebay..then you would just want to get a water pump)

 

all of which is easy to do.

 

I have a 95 Legacy I bought needing a transmission..swapped it and have put 12K miles on it to keep mileage off my 08 Impreza.

 

Sounds like this seller has a legitimate excuse as to why he couldnt be available

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95, one owner, garage kept sounds like a great car.

 

bucky covered all the important stuff to look for during a test drive.

 

i'd plan on having the transmission fluid changed if it hasn't been done.

 

torque bind definitely isn't a deal killer. requires either Duty C or clutch plate replacement to fix. both not that big of a deal, about like doing a timing belt and can be done in the vehicle.

 

being a well kept car though i'm doubtful you'll have problems. torque bind is caused by poor maintenance - infrequent transmission fluid change, not rotating tires, mismatching tires, improper towing, etc.

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Well I did buy the car. At $1300 it is a good deal but not w/o it's questions.

 

Actually, I have more issues with the seller than the car itself, but that's another story for another time.

 

It has two apple sized rust spots above the rear tires, right where there is a seam between the uppper body and the lower rear skirt.

Also has a big screw holding the glove box closed, perhaps where someone tried to break into the box when it had been locked.

Currently w/o owner's manual or service records. Allegedly said records are availlable- he just has to dig them up.

 

Three new matched tires and one odd ball. :(

That's messed up!!

And they're some odd brand that I surely won't be able to buy a match for.

It's too bad, cuz the three are in great shape; almost like new.

 

Everything works mechanically, power and braking are smooth and even. Under the hood is clean and immaculate.

 

For better or for worse, I'm on board.

Really, I'm ok with the car for what I paid, but the dood has some slimy snake in his DNA. My spidey sense is tingling.

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