ericem Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 hmm well i guess ill try flushing the overflow lines and clean the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Did you ever get this fixed? If not, consider this. I once saw something similar to this on a friends car- Peugeot . He had installed the thermostat backwards. So it had to get pretty hot to open, then once it opened, it would close again, etc..... Don't know if it is even possible to install backwards in a Subie- some cars you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Did you ever get this fixed? If not, consider this.I once saw something similar to this on a friends car- Peugeot . He had installed the thermostat backwards. So it had to get pretty hot to open, then once it opened, it would close again, etc..... Don't know if it is even possible to install backwards in a Subie- some cars you can. subaru oem t-stats cannot be installed backwards, there isn't enough room. but after market t-stats can be installed backwards, they are much shorter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Ru Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 subaru oem t-stats cannot be installed backwards, there isn't enough room Errr...I did this...on a '97 OBW, so it can be done without leaks even :eek: car survived though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 lol this was my solution then new motor back in Engine was from a good working legacy turbo wagon I was driving. Only thing kind of bothering me is that the engine has been sitting for a few weeks without coolant in a cold garage. Will find out if it's fine tomorrow when I fire it up PS: questioning tranny removal? Well lost 2nd, 3rd, and 4th which basically forced me to swap both the engine and tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Um crazy, but FANS STILL DONT CYCLE AH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL!!! Car warms up, runs his the 205F mark monitoring via laptop and bam fans just run steady without the temperature dropping. IN the original car it came from it worked PERFECTLY!! All I changed was the thermostat everything else on the motor is what was used in the other car other then the heatercore..... Am I installing the damn thermostat correctly?? What is the proper orientation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 After looking at this I do firmly believe it is the heatercore. It appears that the coolant that the thermostat sees goes through the heatercore first. If the heatercore was clogged up, it would restrict that flow therefore the thermostat will close up as soon as the COLD coolant in the rad circulates by. But when the car is sitting idling the rad is hot since there is no air flowing through the rad. Therefore when the thermostat opens there is hot coolant rushing by and less air blowing through via the fans then when driving. Either way all that is left to this cooling system puzzle is the heater core! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Yeah, the cold air blowing from the dash is a dead giveaway. Clogged heater core. During warm up, the heater core and the Turbo are the only "bypass" circuits while the thermo is closed. So if the core is clogged, then all your coolant is circulating through the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 One way to confirm the heater core is bad is to disconnect the two hoses from the heater core and connect them together with a hose fitting as a temporary test. If the car doesn't overheat after doing this then you know the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 I'm going to try flushing the heatercore both ways with a hose, then blast with air, fill with rad flush, let it sit, flush out with water again, do the same thing the other way. If I don't see any of that stop leak ************ come out, going to do a loop and see if all is well. Would suck having to replace the core.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampbrat Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Had a blazer that kept getting a clogged core- very strange- no solids - just thick looking liquid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 Just want to update. When I drained the rad a bunch of stuff came out then my dad blew out the heatercore with 300psi of nitrogen. I would fill it with water, then blast nitrogen, and let it build a slight bit of pressure. So far so good! I am very happy, car seems to drive great now. Hope this helps out people in the future. Lesson is NO STOP LEAK OF ANY KIND IN A SUBIE!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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