The Dude Abides Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 (edited) WoW what a difference alittle cleaning can make. Cleaned the IAC and replace the O-ring under the power stearing resevour. Just curious, an o ring does go there because there was none when i took it off. Also i removed the upper part of the throttle body to get the IAC off. Was the only way seeming feasable to take it off. But anyway, cleaned the gook out of the IAC and it idles better now. But i still have mega mega bogg down when i first start off. When its warmed up its fine but in the beginning its terrible. Cleaned the upper part of the throttle body as well. Anyone else have an idea what could be causeing the boggyness. On one more thing, when i removed the top part of the throttle body i had to remove a spring. When i assembled it i forgot to put the spring back but it still ran fine and reved up and down like it should. What is this spring for. Edited November 1, 2009 by The Dude Abides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 Bump for being lost in the shuffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 silly rabbit - what kind of vehicle or engine? never any check engine lights? tune up stuff - plugs, wires, cap, rotor? CTS, they're commonly problematic on XT6's, not nearly as much on EA stuff but worth a look. dirty/corroded connector is bad. needs clean contacts, we install new connectors on XT6's. the sensor won't be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 Sorry gross, i keep thinking everyone knows me on here. 1988 Subaru DL Fuel Injected. New Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor. As stated just cleaned the throttle body, maf, and IAC. No Check Engine Light I did notice it doesnt rev up and down like it used to. It doesnt seem to high idle though ever, unless im pressing the vertical peddle. Thoughts, questions, querys, posers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Ben, throw it out, its a crappy Subaru, complete junk! Worst car brand ever made! Ok, enough dicking around. I would check and clean any connections and plugs that you see (I did this to mine a few weeks ago and it seems to run better) If you have anything corroded you can use some "Emmery cloth" to clean them then apply some of that connection jelly to ensure its getting good contact. Also, how is the cat and resenator on your car? Is there a change either of them might be plugged up (Due to rattling cat) causing to much back-pressure? Have you ever cleaned out the hoses and T-connectors that run from one Head to the other? These can get a build up of crud in them aswell. I don't know much more there is to clean in your engine. Only other thing I can think of is you bought some defective parts (Cap, rotor) My thoughs -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilgore Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 I had a similar bogging issue in my ea82, turned out to be a leak in the throttle body - the gasket was torn. Replaced that and she's golden, more bottom end now and less bogging when cold. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 I tend to agree its a vaccum leak somewhere, either a cracked vac hose, or a loose fitting vac hose, or as mentioned, the intake gasket is bad somewhere, letting lots of air in there, and the boggy issue. Also, you said you removed a spring from the throttle body. that spring most certainly was there for a reason, you need to get a shop manual, and find out WHERE that spring goes, and put it back. I cannot tell you how finicky these are without the correct parts on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 LOL brent i know where the spring goes and i put it back, i was just curious what it was for. gross - i checked out the cts today and im curious which connection do i need to check for corosion. I took the green one apart and it looks ok. But how in mary mother of god do i clean inside such a tight area. Also am i suspost to remove the plug from the block and clean some type of sensor in there. I have never messed with that gasket until recently so if its someth8ing that just popped up all of a sudden i dont know. I have checked for the most part all the vacume hoses and i see none lose or cracked. How would i clean out the inside of the hoses. Is there something i can spray on the engine while its running to help me find a vacume leak. Oh and all these problems remained the same before and after i replaced the cap and rotor. And werent a problem when i changed the plugs and wires. Its seriously bogs down in the beginning. Ill step on the gas and it will stumble, sometimes backfire if i give it to much gas. Need to feather the peddle to get it going, or get the rpms up really high then its ok to move but still boggy. As far as my cat and resoner go. Im not sure about the cat, but the resoner is rattling. If there clogged i would have no idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 You said an intake gasket what about a headgasket. I seem to have a small coolant leak problem but cant track it down. I dont run through coolant regularly and i dont see any green puddles, only brown and red ones LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 I would have to state with 100% certainty, that it is time for you to do a compression test. yes, a bad HG will cause loss of power, most noticable until it warms up, When metal warms up it expands, and can mask the headgasket issue for power loss, but if you are losing coolant, yeah. compression test this. it will tell you if you have a bad hg and is a good way to tell the overall health on your engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Have you checked the timing belt tension? I had a meduim-mileage EA82 (115k) that would bog right off idle - was really annoying and I couldn't figure it out. Flushed the tranny (3AT), removed and dressed the edges of the modulator, checked out the entire fuel system, etc. Wasn't until the timing belts broke while I was on the freeway that I found the problem. It must have been a stretched belt. The problem never returned after I did the belts and tensioners. Just an easy thing to check for - remove the outer covers and feel the free-play in the belt. If the belts are good, perhaps just a retensioning would help. Beyond that - have you checked fuel pressure? Checked the hot/cold resistance of the CTS? Checked for dead spots in the sweep of the TPS? GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Timeing belts are fairley new, but i do hear noises from the timeing cover. I suspect it is the tensioners but how would that be an interment problem Also, brent i dont have anything to do the compression test with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 The belts flopping around causes unpredictable valve timing. Apparently that really screws with the SPFI. On a carb it wouldn't matter as much. If you need a comp. tester - Harbor Frieght has one for like $10. Just be careful with them as the mechanism inside is soldered and they like to break. I've resoldered mine a few times - now it's just a backup as I got frustrated and bought a nicer set. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kilgore Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 I have heard of spraying a mist of ether to locate vacuum leaks. The best way to precisely locate would be to test with a vacuum gauge I suspect, as small leaks won't necessarily be noted using ether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 quote; all these problems remained the same before and after i replaced the cap and rotor. And werent a problem when i changed the plugs and wires. end quote; Check that the plug wires are correctly positioned on the cap following the firing order, and that they are one the correct plug also. Flipping 2 wires around can cause the symptoms you're having. my .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 Bump, No one answered my coolant temp sensor problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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