brysawn Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 bump for some help/ideas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 (edited) I've said it before - cut your losses and buy a Legacy. There's no point in dumping any kind of money into a car that will be worth $500 tops even after you are done. EA82's are worthless out here. Especially Loyale's as anyone that wants one wants a late 80's GL with the dual range. I just bought a mid-80's GL sedan - fairly low mileage, clean, straight, and with timing belts/water pump, clutch cable, and a host of other repairs done in the last 5,000 miles by a very reputable shop. I paid $900 for the car, and I only paid that much because my woman wanted that specific body style. I'll be doing an EJ swap on it anyway.... you see my point? You are college educated - do the math my friend. Then take a look at my post count and how long I've been here. Most everyone will back me up - sell the car for $200 to someone that can put in some HG's and has the time/inclination to do the upkeep on a Loyale, and buy something that is worth putting your money into. You won't regret a Legacy I promise. GD Edited November 3, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Thanks for the input. Tomorrow it's going to Smart Service to get the issue diagnosed. And if it is something fairly "simple" then my dad, and a friend are going to pull the motor and do the headgaskets along with a re-seal. This way there is no labor costs, and the motor will be fresh for another 150k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Smart Service is going to tell you the same thing I will and I don't even have to look at it: 1. The head gaskets are blown. 2. You have a coolant leak (maybe they can even tell you where). 3. You won't know the extent of the damage (scored cylinder's, cracked heads, etc) till you tear it down. This is IMPOSSIBLE to diagnose without incurring labor costs. I'll lay down $100 and tell you the heads are warped and will need to be surface ground, but beyond that.... it's all ???? Have your dad and friend pull the engine and remove the heads. They can then inspect the cylinders - if everything is OK there - take the heads to a machine shop and have them pressure tested and if they aren't cracked have them ground and put them back on. If they are cracked hit up the board here for a replacement set. If everything is not OK with the short block, install a good used engine. There's plenty to be found - just ask in the wanted section. With people parting out cars, others doing EJ swaps, and the general dislike of the EA82 in general, there are lots to be had for cheap. That's one perk to the car - the engine's are a dime a dozen and no one wants them. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 Good to know, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 plenty of info here on doing the headgaskets if you end up having your dad do them. Go Subaru for thermostat and intake manifold gaskets Go Fel-Pro permatorques and add 5-10 pounds to the final torque value for headgaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 where can these headgaskets be bought? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Pretty much anywhere that sells auto parts. However, I prefer Subaru factory head gaskets. Many milesand many mods. I have blown the ************ out of an EA82 in nearly every way possible. I have never popped a head or head gasket though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Pretty much anywhere that sells auto parts. However, I prefer Subaru factory head gaskets. Many milesand many mods. I have blown the ************ out of an EA82 in nearly every way possible. I have never popped a head or head gasket though. Oh really? Hmm... I'll have to look into this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I've seen plenty of factory head gaskets blow. Original's of course. I don't think it really matters which one you use if you install them properly. The reason I use the Fel-Pro's is they are designed not to require a retorque. The OEM gaskets are supposed to be retorqued after a run-in period. That, and they are half the price. Try Autozone. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 I found a complete EA82 locally, it has been sitting in the weather for about 3 years. But it has been covered by a tarp, and an overhang. It's dirt cheap. It was running when pulled, and still is complete and has oil in it. It had the typical "subaru tick". Is this something I should pick up? Should I be worried about a cracked block or head because of weathering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 really no way to tell, but something like that is likely to leak. might not. might. but if you have a good engine i wouldn't be swapping an unknown into it. +1 on GD's comments - Fel-Pro's don't require a retorque (really annoying) and have excellent feedback from those of us that dont' even know how many head gasket jobs we've done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 really no way to tell, but something like that is likely to leak. might not. might. but if you have a good engine i wouldn't be swapping an unknown into it. +1 on GD's comments - Fel-Pro's don't require a retorque (really annoying) and have excellent feedback from those of us that dont' even know how many head gasket jobs we've done. I figured it would leak, but if I plan on re-sealing it, and changing headgaskets? I think it would be worth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I figured it would leak, but if I plan on re-sealing it, and changing headgaskets? I think it would be worth it OR, you could save the money you would spend on that and just re-seal the motor you already have -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 or, you could save the money you would spend on that and just re-seal the motor you already have -bill +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Listen to what GD is telling you. a 1994 loyale in running condition is barely worth a grand in Washington. You are going to put the same amount of money into repairing the engine you have............ Not to mention paying someone 100 dollars to diagnose that the waterpump is bad and the head gaskets are bad. Cut your losses now and get a newer car. sell yours as is where is, take the money from that and the 1000 bucks ur gonna spend fixing your engine and buy a 90-94 legacy. I'm sure theres loads of them on craigs list for 1 to 2 grand. If you really wanted to get fancy, get a 96-99 Legacy (just for the ODB2 and the extra 15 hp The only reason you see the guys on this board still driving the GL series cars (85-89) is because we lift them and need the dual range transmissions. I'm guessing theres over 100 of these cars that people have done the EJ22 swap on strictly for reliability. I still have a carb'd EA82 in my lifted wagon and the only reason why its still in there is it still runs. Once it dies, its getting a EJ series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 Yeah we'll see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I don't think the EA82's are quite as bad as people make them out to be. I've put 250k on some with nothing but routine maintenance -- oil changes, new hoses, belts, timing belts, water pump occasionally, etc. And, I have had some bad ones that I had to do head gaskets on, that never ran right, too.... It's still not in question that the EJ is still a MUCH better engine -- way more horsepower, longer lived on average, and about the same gas mileage. If you can fix your engine, or swap in a different engine, it's not a bad car... just not as good as some other subarus. I'd still rather drive an EA82 subaru, than most other cars on the road. I had to choose between an '85GL wagon that needed head gaskets and a carburetor, and a nice fuel injected '89 Honda accord once... and i chose the subaru, because I liked it and was mentally able to handle the idea of having to fix it, but I just didn't feel like fixing anything on the honda. The dual range 4wd is really what the benefit of the EA series cars is, and why so many of us keep them. And... alot of people put EJ22's in the older EA's, or, like I'm doing, put the dual range transmission in the newer cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Someone said there was a headgasket DIY around here? I searched and couldn't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 There's probably many threads discussing it. I know I've outlined it a couple times. I don't know of a specific write-up for head gaskets although there is a couple floating around for the timing belts. The head gaskets themselves aren't real tricky. The part that gives folks the most trouble is installing the timing belts as there are two of them and it's an unusual arrangment for timing belts in general. Clean the block mating surface real well, have the heads surfaced and torque them properly. Make sure the lifters are solid and put them back in the locations they came from. Don't forget to replace the cam-tower o-ring with a new one FROM THE DEALER. Other than that - it's not a real tricky procedure. If you or your dad or whoever is doing it has done a head gasket on anything in the past it's very similar. The timing belt is a bit obscure but the engine is non-interferance so it's not like you are going to hurt anything if it's put on wrong. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 (edited) Okay thanks. My dad has built many big/small blocks, so I'm sure he can figure it out. Any other parts I should get? What to you mean by not being able to hurt anything if the timing belts are installed incorrectly? I assume that doesn't include the timing. And for a re-seal, what seals do you recommend (and gaskets too)? and where can they be bought? For the headgaskets, Is there a kit I should buy, or just the fel-pro gaskets? We got another motor, for cheap with low miles in great condition, and while it's out he's going to do the headgaskets and a re-seal. Edited November 7, 2009 by brysawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Here's my parts list: 1. Fel-Pro head gaskets (just the gaskets). ~$16 each from Autozone. 2. OEM (dealership) intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, cam carrier o-ring (metal reinforced), oil pump seal kit, oil pan gasket (coat all sides in RTV to make it "rubberized"), cam and crank seals. Valve cover seals and bolt seals if you choose to replace them - I typically just clean and RTV the old one's as new one's will just leak in short order anyway. Rear main seal if you choose to replace it (not a common failure - they usually fail when someone replaces one for "maintenance" ) 3. Complete timing belt kit from ebay. Reason being they are plenty good enough quality to last the typical 50k service interval. If this were an EJ I would be buying at least the belt at the dealer. The chinese stuff is fine for the EA82's though so long as you replace the entire kit every 50k (might as well for the price). 4. Paraut water pump. This is the OEM brand. I buy them from a discount parts house as it's about half the price or less than the dealer. Check rockauto.com or thepartsbin.com maybe. What I mean about the timing belt is that if it's improperly installed, no mechanical damage will result. In most modern engines the valves and pistons (or valves and valves ) will hit each other if the timing is wrong. This is not the case with the EA82 - it just won't run right. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 Thanks a lot for the information. Ill probably end up getting a water pump, and timing kits locally, so I don't have to wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted November 7, 2009 Author Share Posted November 7, 2009 That's the ea82 we got. The fuel system looks to be a little different then mine. But can't I just swap all the EFI stuff off my blown ea82 on to this one? Although the fueling looks a little different, I imagine the heads/block are the same. Being as it is a ea82 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Yeah - but the fuel system shouldn't be much different. Maybe some small differences in the connectors and such but there weren't any big differences in the SPFI over the years. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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