Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 This is How the 15/16" Master Cylinder looks already installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 What I noticed immediately after driving the car, is that it now needs way less Foot / Pedal effort for the same stopping Power, but in exchange, the Pedal travels deeper, but the difference is pretty small. Now, instead of Engaging the Brakes with a Tall, Hard pedal, it goes down more travel, little spongy but now the brakes could be "Modulated" during the Pedal's down travel...So, with this 15/16" Master Cylinder, I gained a Pedal with better Modulation for slow stoppings / speed reductions; which needs ~ 50% less foot effort for giving strong clamping force to the Calipers...But, the first 2/3 of travel is softer than the last 1/3 of travel, and the main clamping force is on that last 1/3 which still is Hard to press. However, seems like such behaviour is Normal and logically understandable, due to the "Tandem" Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster.The Brake Power seems to be increased back to "Normal" once again, the Pedal is not stiff as it was with the 1" Master Cylinder, and the Pedal does Not go Deep, as it used to be with the 7/8" Master Cylinder; seems like the 15/16" is in Perfect Balance with the Calipers.I'll report the overall brakin' Behaviour as time passes by.Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Jeszek, I hope this cures your brake issues for a while and you can just drive the kiastein again 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Two weeks passed already, since the "KiaStein" has the 15/16" Master Cylinder......and I can assure now that it is way much Better than the 1" master cylinder, because despite that the Pedal is softer and has more down travel, now it needs the half foot effort to stop the car, giving twice clamping force to the calipers. Please read previous posts here for further details.Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 good work JesZek!! Do you have a parts list you still want/need for the Kia? I remember you were having a hard time sourcing or finding parts that could be shippped there, but what's the latest on the difficult-to-source-locally parts for the Kiastien? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Many thanks to you, I really appreciate your Kind offer. However, since I lost my Job after fourteen years working there, I am in "Low Budget" Mode, 'till I could find another Job; now I'm only purchasing the mere necessary things. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 ^ I understand. My best to you and yours. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) Maybe the 7/8" Master Cylinder would have been enough for this Kia, however the 15/16" is the one that the Kia Engineers used for the models that came from factory with four wheel Disc Brakes...Kind Regards. Edited August 10, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 I am very Deeply disappointed with the Lousy quality of the "Kia Genuine Parts", specifically the two Brand New rubber hoses with inner braided core, that the local Kia dealer sold to me, for the Automatic Transmission's Cooling Lines... I purchased them right after I finished to change the Differential, when I did the complete Transmissions' internals cleanup, three months ago, more information & photos on that subject, in previous posts of this thread. The Old transmission cooling hoses were dry, hard, but in Good Shape for being the original ones of the Car, but I decided to change them with newer ones from the Kia Dealer, which used the vehicle's Vin number to sell me the appropiate parts.Long story short: I noticed that the new hoses were very thin, in fact, they looked like a condom with thin braided nylon, extremely flexibles... and they lasted less than two months and a half of average driving: suddenly, one of them ripped out, in the middle of a Trip, leaking two full quarts of the fresh ATF to the road, and my wife noticed that 'till the car went to neutral in the middle of nowhere.My wife used her cellphone to call to the insurance company, for a tow truck, to bring the car back to home again... 70 miles away.The two Reason why I wanted then, to install original Kia replacement hoses, were:. The Braided Hose must be intended for Hot Oil in High Pressures, and I thought that there won't be nothing better than original Kia replacements. The Hoses had many diferent intrincated curves, shaped to avoid hitting anything on the engine bay. But the Old hoses were triple thick than the New ones. When I removed the two "New" Kia hoses after two and a half months of use, the two looked "inflated" to two sizes more from their original diameter, and came out extremely soft... including one of them ripped out.So, I decided to search for a suitable hose replacement, it must be designed to bear High Temperatures of Hot Oil at High Pressures, and I found in a local car parts' store, a "GoodYear" brand hose for Hot, presurized oils (Hydraulic use) which beside the inner braids, also has an external, protective braid: Despite that this hose comes without any curve nor shape, it was pretty easy to install it, without touching anything on the engine bay, so Problem = Solved.Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Since I Tend to do Many Many Travels during Night time, and our Highways aren't so good... (new Potholes tend to Grow each Rainstorm) ...I Always install Auxiliary Driving Lights: "Halogen Lamps" on all my Cars, for Safety Reasons, because not only animals could cross the road, also the Main Headlamps could fail in the Middle of Nowhere during a Nocturnal travel, So, I wanted another, fully independent Lights Circuit on board, in case the main one fails... Not only better illumination. I have much experience installing Halogens, I've installed them not only in my cars, but also in my Friends' cars, and much more... Usually, I choose to do the Halogens' install, in an inexpensive but good working Way; let me Explain: ► First, I Choose Halogen Lamps that are made of Glass & Metal, (Forget Plastics) it doesn't matter if those are Cheap Chinese Lamps. ► Then I Always Remove the Cheap Bulbs that they have, and install there Better Bulbs, usually made in Germany of well-known Brands, such as Osram, Sylvania, Bosch, etc. ► Then I reassemble the Lamp, Resealing it using Clear Silicone for weatherproofing purposes; also I smear some more clear silicone around the joints and around the hole that lets the wires to pass thru the Lamp's body. Doing that will keep the humidity away from the Lamps' inside... Ideal to make 'em Last Longer, specially if you drive on a Wet / Rainy enviroment. Then I Do the Install, using a Relay, a Rocker Switch, a pair of Twin-wire Couplers (Female-Male) and enough Nº 12 Automotive Wiring... beside Good Electrical isolating Tape and other minorities... You can use a Brand New "Bosch Standard" Relay of a good aftermarket brand, but I usually go to Hunt for a Good Relay to the Junk Yards, in order to obtain their mounting hardware and -specially- their rubber covering Hood that some relays which comes from factory, has, to avoid rust on them due to install on the engine's bay area. The relay shall be rated between 20 ~ 40 Amps to work properly. This writeup could help you to Understand better How the Relay Works and How to Wire one, ~► Here. But I'll explain that here in Short Words. The early Kia Spectra that comes with under bumper lights, usually has a Single Relay covered with a Rubber hood (for Weatherproof) for them in the engine bay, and is the Ideal Candidate for this install. If you want to Reach Long Distance with the Halogen Lamps, you must install them as Near to the Road as Possible: Underbumper Lamps reach more Distance. For Fog lightning, you Must install your Halogen Lamps Above the Bumper, so they'll point to spread the Light around certain area, depending on how far or close you adjust their beam light. The clear Halogens I installed on the "KiaStein" years ago, got tired and since we drive in Mountain highs that usually have dense Fog during night times, I decided to change the Old, worn clear Halogens, with a pair of Yellow ones, also placed under the Bumper, for better light spreading pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 First I obtained the Cheap Halogen Lamps......and the Great quality H3 Halogen Bulbs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 I removed the Lousy H3 Bulbs that came with the Lamps,To place the Great quality ones instead.Take a Look of this comparison photo of both together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Halogens Already installed and Working Alright! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 Also, I use Flösser Bulbs on other lamps of my Cars,Such like the H4 for the Head Lamps......and the 1156 / 1157 bulbs:Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superu Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Also, I use Flösser Bulbs on other lamps of my Cars, Such like the H4 for the Head Lamps... ...and the 1156 / 1157 bulbs: Kind Regards. I need to mark this info somewhere, I've always wondered about your bright bulbs AND i need some bulbs for my KC fog lamps. Doesn't your Bumble Beast have HIDs too? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 (edited) ... I've always wondered about your bright bulbs ... Those H4 are Flösser with 100 High Beam / 90 Low Beam, Real Watts output; however this needs the Plastic Sockets on the Headlamps, to be Changed with Ceramic Sockets, to prevent Melting. Those has been working Flawlessly since December 2009 on the "KiaStein" so far... Also, I could obtain H4 Flösser Bulbs with 130W High / 100W Low, which are intended for use in Rally Vehicles, see their chart: The most Powerful H4 bulb I've seen "in Person" here in Honduras, was rated 170W High / 100W Low, for a Link ~► Click here, but those shall need a complete rewiring to prevent melting the wires and are Not intended to be placed inside Headlamps whose front lense is Plastic, those are "Glass Headlamp" only; Certain local aftermarket parts' stores sell those, but they sell the Ceramic Sockets along the Bulbs as well. Edited November 20, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 ... Doesn't your Bumble Beast have HIDs too? Yes, instead of Halogens, my Subaru "BumbleBeast" has Especial H.I.D. Lamps that were made by "Retro-Solutions" in USA, those has around the normal Yellowish colour (5,000 K) and they also has Dual Beam Low / High, which electromagnetically moves the Lamp when you move the beam stick; with the idea of avoid Blinding the incoming traffic with their Glare: Low beams has a sharp cut in fron of my Subie, while High Beams gives you the feeling as if you are driving behind an enormous Stadium's Lamp. Let me Know if you need more information on the Subject. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Here you can see how the under bumper Halogens looks like by night: There, the main Headlamps where off, I only had Lit the Corner Lights + the 8 LED's I added inside them, long years ago: More info about those, on previous posts of this thread. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 A photo collage of our latest family "Gardening" activities Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 ♪ Axle's Blues ♫ My Wife's car, the "KiaStein" started some months ago to have clickin' noisy axles, so I went today to the local Kia stealership to ask how much cost each axle, brand new, since the original ones have already reached beyond 170K + miles and more than 15 years. I wanted same quality replacements. They asked the equivalent to US $ 900.ºº Dollars for each axle... ...there will never be any emoticon that can show how disapointed am I now. Time to dig on the local junk yards, maybe? Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 (edited) Also, the local Kia stealership asks the equivalent of US $ 70.ºº Dollars in our currency, for each "inner" rubber boot which can't be sourced among the local aftermarket stores, nor foreign aftermarket stores such like Napa because they have the wrong part on their database; since the inner boots on this automatic Kia, has three lumps on the inner side of its bigger opening, which matches the shaft's base, and the ones that are available here, has a completely round circle ... ... those are for the Manual transmission version. ► UPDATE: I resolved this issue, more info, ~► Here. Kind Regards. Edited August 18, 2016 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 That's riddiculous. I would give the aftermarket axles a shot, you could buy a lot of after market axles for that price 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 The Cheapo, Bad Quality chinese axles "OE" brand, are available as cheap as Lps. 800.ºº Lempiras, our currency, which equals ~ to $ 40.ºº US Dollars each, but those are a complete waste of effort, time and money, because those are as bad as coming clickin' right out from the Box. I've tried those lousy axles on my Subaru and they are the crappiest axles I've tried in all my life. Those doesn't last three months, even using the Very Best Axle Grease available on the world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 The Axles' clicking noise became so hard, especially on the Passenger's side one, that I bet that the axle was about to collapse... so I decided to remove 'em today, I started early morning and I'm about to finish the Removal Procedures on both sides... Then, with one axle on my hand, (Because there are two versions for the Sephia), I'll search for the Best aftermarket or Junk Yard axle I could find... Wish me Good Luck! Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now