Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 I wanted to use a white LED instead the incandescent bulb, which came wrapped with a blue "Condom-Like" hood on the Dimmer Control of the "KiaStein" to match the Rest of the Dashboard & instrument Cluster's illumination... ...But the Dimmer Control, came with a T-4 Bulb, and I only had T-3 LEDs... So, I Removed the T-3 LED that already comes with built-in protective resistor, from its "Neo-Wedge" rubber base, by unwrapping their twisted legs, and then wrapped those legs again, onto the incandescent T-4 bulb's rubber base from the Kia's Dimmer Control, after I removed the old incandescent bulb from there, let me Show ya: Voilá! - Perfect Fitting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 Here you can see how the T-3 LED illuminates the Dimmer control: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 By the Way, long time ago I had to change the Dimmer Control unit on the "KiaStein" because, the original one had worn-out inner contacts and sometimes the instrument cluster & dashboard panel's lights, turned off / on Randomly, while driving in bumpy Roads; the Replacement control I obtained at the Local Kia Dealer: Is exactly the Mirror image from the Original one, I mean that the placement for the wiring's plug is in the opposed position and placed upside down, also the placement for the Background illumination's bulb, is in the opposed side...But the new control fits Perfectly on the Dashboard, and the wiring's plug of the car matched perfectly the receptacle on the new Dimmer control unit; also this new control, does provide even Lower illumination on the Minimum setting, than the Original one...Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 11, 2015 Author Share Posted June 11, 2015 So, now the dimmer control's background light, matches the Rest of the instrument cluster & Dashboard's illumination: Also, I Used LEDs on the A/C Controls illumination:and in the Shifter Gear Position illumination: Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 ~► Kia "Made in Mexico"I knew about they building a plant in Mexico since long time ago, there was a Poster regarding this at the local Kia Dealer, which stated that the Kia Mexico plant will be Enormous... That is a Good Move for Kia, the LADM (Latin American Domestic Market) is Enormous also.We have Kias since the 1970's decade in Central America / Latin America, except Mexico, that only allows cars assembled in there... that will spread Kia's Markets and Lower costs for their models being sold in LADM. Smart Move. Kia prescence is Big in LADM, it competes with Toyota in number of units sold. Let me show you some photos of old local Kias, in Honduras: 1980's Kia "K3500" Diesel Truck, next to our "KiaStein" : Our "KiaStein" Parked aside a 1976 Kia Brissa:A 1970's Kia Master Pick Up:In latin America, there are some differences, in example, the same car is Soldas "Cerato" if it is CRDi Diesel engined, and is sold as "Forte" it is Gasoline Engined.There are Big Kia Trucks, Buses etc, also the Sephia name is still Alive here, see: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 A Big Kia Bus, parked at Random Street in Honduras. Did the first gen Spectra, went with Rear Wipers in USDM?This local one was spotted by me at Random parking lot:Sorry for my Cheapo cellphone's photo.Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 This photo was taken moments before I did the oil change on my Wife's car, the "KiaStein" I was drinking the Orange Steaz and eating a mix of seeds & Dried Fuits ... my favourite snacks I have years using this "Delo 400" motor oil which is certified by the American Petroleum institute to be Suitable for Gasoline and Diesel Engines. (up to date SM class)Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 The idea of using the Long Base Neo-Wedge T-3 Bulb is to let a small output (wattage) Bulb to illuminate the "D" (For Drive) indicator on the instrument Cluster's area for the Automatic Transmission's Shifter position Lights; so the Driver will not have a Powerful Light pointing to his / her eyes all the Time, and the indicator will be visible, because the tiny bulb is Nearest to the "D" marked plastic than the other "Standard" T-5 Bulbs for the other gears position indicators. However, that tiny bulb trend to be the First to get burned by the normal use, so I wanted a Long Lasting LED Bulb there, without being too much Bright that could be a Blinding Light Spot, dangerous especially during night driving times. As I Wrote before in early posts of this thread, I Build my Own Neo-Wedge long base LEDs... ...and I covered their single point LED bulb with a condom-like green Rubber, so the Light keeps green as the "D" indicator itself, but deep green than the other indicators with Rubberless T-5 Bulbs. Something very Smart from the Kia Engineers is that when you Switch the Lights ON, the whole instrument Cluster Lights, including the Automatic Trans Gear "D" indicator Light, could be Dimmed using the Dimmer Knob; so there's No Blinding Light Spots at all! That "Homemade" by me, T-3 "Neo-Wedge" LED failed a month ago, it started to blink rapidly, then went completely off... Well, It lasted more than two years, and being the only bulb that is usually permanently on duty all the times the car is being driven, I can't complain. Time for Replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 However, this time instead of making another "Homemade" long base T-3 LED, I decided to use one of the T-3 LEDs I have, with short base, in its place: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 The only issue is that the Long Base T-3 "Neo-Wedge" has a thicker measurement on the plastic, than the Short Base T-3 "Neo-Wedge" and felt a little loose on its place; what I did to "Solve" that, was to use a small amount of "Ultra-Grey" silicone, smeared on one side of the T-3 "Neo-Wedge" short base, in order to let it hold it in place, see: That kind of Silicone, becomes some sort of sticky Glue, that allows to be removed (with patience) without damaging the plastic underneath, since it is not extremely sticky like a real glue.The Short base T-3 "Neo-Wedge" was placed without any green Rubber "condom-like" cover, and the light has been working absolutely Flawlessly for a Month so far, it is Not too bright and the dimmer control, works great with it. So, there's no reason to keep the Long Base there, it works Perfect with the short base LED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 So, besides that, the completely LED instrument cluster on the "KiaStein"has been working Flawlessly for more than two years so far, thanks to God. Kind Regards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Radiator Springs! One of the first things I did with this Kia after obtaining it, was, to take it to a local Radiator Shop and let them substitute the Upper Plastic tank on the Radiator, with a custom-made Aluminium one, which is much more safe and durable.The car ran alright for years, but recently it developed a Leak on the Radiator's Lower plastic tank; and to substitute it with another, custom-made Aluminium one, is not as easy as the upper one was, because in the Lower tank lies the Automatic Transmission's cooler, which is made with cooper.The "Master" at the local Radiator shop, is a true Artisan, with tremendous patient, he disassembled the lower Plastic tank and separated the Transmission's cooler from it, then using his Torch, he managed to *Slowly* twist the return line from that cooler and make it in a 90º Angle to the front like the inlet pipe.After that, he built another custom-made lower tank from Aluminium, where he opened the two holes to slide the Transmission's cooler pipes inside out; finally, using his torch again, he twisted back the return line from the new Aluminium lower tank, to the position it should be.Finally, he welded the New, lower aluminium Tank + the old Transmission's cooler inside, to the bottom of the Radiator.He allowed me to shoot some photos to share here with you: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Here the "Master" is twisting the return line from the Cooler:Here you can see how both lines are already back in their Place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Here you can see the pipes and the Strong Drain Valve, already Welded in Place.The black hose is for Pressurized air, he was about to test the Cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) One of the more interesting things, is the way he used to dry immediately,the High Temperature Ceramic Paint: (► Edit: the car on the Background of this photo, is my '69 Mercury Coupe)He used his Blowtorch again, and smeared the just painted surfaces, with Fire!Then, he applied more subsequent Paint layers, and set them on Fire:Please see this short Video to see that procedure in Action: Edited August 7, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Finally, we installed the Radiator, back on the "KiaStein" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 I always use those thick, wide clamps, made of inox steel in Spain, brand:~► MikalorYou only need to choose the one with the proper diameter, otherwise if you place a clamp too big, the pressure will not be rounded equally and could develop Leaks around the base for the adjusting Screw, which is thicker.Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 The "KiaStein" has Several Months running Flawlessly with that Radiator, thanks to God. I decided to change the two main Hoses from its Cooling System:Here you can see their part number on "Gates" brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 The Radiator's overflow tank, has a cap which has a small, angled hose, designed to let the excess of coolant, to drip far from the Hot Radiator and far from the back of the Driver's side Headlamp; however, due to such design on said Cap, it is usually lifted by Grabbing the Hose's underside, and since the cap fits pretty Tight, the base for that Hose, Breaks like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 I was tired of searching among local Junk Yards for such cap, all of them, yellow or blue coloured caps were already broken, so I went to the local Kia dealer, and purchased a brand new one: In which I smeared fast drying J.B. Weld epoxy: The idea of putting epoxy on a New part, is to avoid breaking it, not only by Reinforce it, but I bet that I will be more careful to lift it, seeing that epoxy patch there, which remember how fragile the plastic is.Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Also, I purchased a brand new Radiator Cap: They had 50% discount! Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 I forgot to explain this:The reason to Repair my old Radiator is to have a more Reliable one on the Car, I don't Trust plastics on High Temperature environments, usually the Plastic tanks on the Radiators has short lifespan, and could break / fail anywhere, causing a disaster... While the Radiator with welded Aluminium tanks, seems to last Forever.It is a very common Custom in Honduras / Central America, to change the Plastic tanks on Radiators, also to Remove Catalytic Converters from any USDM car, so the Radiator "Master" does such work several times per day, he only asked Lps. 500.ºº Lempiras, our Currency, which Equals to ~ $ 23.ºº US Dollars.I've seen cars that are running flawlessly and suddenly their radiator's tank Blows, while driving in our Hot caribbean climate, such situation usually means a super fast lost of pressure on the engine's internals, which causes warped / cracked heads, especially on Diesel engines, so think about changing the Plastic Tanks with Welded Aluminium, as Cheap insurance who pays itself on the long run...However, you can find pretty easily, New, cheap Aftermarket Radiators for almost any car, also you can find New ones at the Local Kia Dealer, Napa, etc... besides the Hundred of Junk Yards, but the people who purchases Brand new Radiators, usually are the ones who Repairs Crashed cars to be Sold, from the thousands of cars that comes yearly from Crashes in USA; like our "KiaStein"Kind Regards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 I don't like plastic radiators either. My Loyale UNO had the stock plastic radiator leak after 42K miles. Subaru refused to cover ut as the warranty was 40K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 Yes, also I use a Full Metal Radiator on my Subaru "BumbleBeast" since long years ago: Here you can see much more info & photos: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125754-easy-guide-on-five-steps-to-twin-electric-fans-swap/ Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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