Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Despite that the Outlet pipe on the Boosters, for the Vacuum Hose, are placed a little bit Differently; I managed to plug the same Hose that already was on the Kia, onto this Mazda Brake Booster, and the route for said hose changed a little bit: Now it touches the IAC Valve which was noisy, and now somehow it became much Quieter!The install was extremely easy: Just removed the Old Kia Booster and installed the New -to me- Mazda Booster on its place; I has nothing to change nor adapt, it was a pretty straight install.Despite that the Mazda Booster has a Thicker Body, since its overall diameter is smaller than the Kia Booster, there was enough Room for it plus the Master Cylinder; it fits Perfectly!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 I am Really Glad that I got Rid from the Old worn Master Cylinderand the Damaged Brake Booster from the Kia Sephia, which are pictured here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 After the Install was Finished, I Tested the Vehicle, immediately I noticed an increased sensibility on the Brake Pedal, which still was Tall, but Really much Softer than it was with the Kia's Single Diaphragm Booster.In fact, the Brake Pedal now feels a little taller and Softer than the Average Car on same Size / Segment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 The Protege's Booster + Sportage's Master Cylinder installed on the Kia Sephia:This is the Clearance, between the Booster and the Relay & Fusible Box:Now I have Much More Reasons to call this car, the "KiaStein" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 I already Tested the Vehicle's Braking Behaviour on Different Speeds at different tipes of grounds, and I found this, so far:The Brake Pedal is Tall, but is Very Soft and Responsive, plus it has much more sensibility, like a Brand New Car, rolling out from the Dealer; it only needs 25% of the Brake Pedal Travel to stop the Car on average usage, while it needed 75% of Travel on identical usage & circumstances, before I changed these parts.I was Able to Lock all the Four Wheels going at 60 MPH's using 50% less Leg Effort!!! ... and the Brake Pedal still has more travel available, just in case... with the old parts, the pedal would needed to be floored for the same purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Now I only need to Change the Rear Drums Brakes, with Rear Disc Brakes.That will improve braking performance by:► Avoiding the Rear Wheels from Locking easily: that will add Safety.The Rear Drums are Oval, which somehow is "Normal" after 160K Miles / 15 Years of use in an Automatic Car.► A greater Chamber for brake fluid on the Rear Calipers, will compensate the increased bore Master Cylinder.► Also, as a Bonus: I'll Get Rid from the Monthly adjustments to the rear shoes, due to the Useless Self adjusters on the Rear Drum Brakes.Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Again, great documentation and pictures. Glad to hear you got the dual-diaphragm booster installed and it sounds like it's working pretty good! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Yes, the New -to me- Mazda Booster is workin' Awesome! As I told in previous posts, I've switched cars with my Wife, 'till I got this brakes' issues sorted, Now seems like is time get back onto my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" and give back the "KiaStein" to her. ...great documentation and pictures... Thank you, Josh! _________________________________________________________ I always take Photos and Measurements to go along the explanations, because I Hope that the info I Share, might be Helpful for other people; this "KiaStein" thread seems to be very Huge, because I've all the information regarding to said Kia, on this thread only; While in the case of my Subaru "BumbleBeast", I Wrote Individual Writeups for each different problem & Solution / adaptation \ Improvement that I've done to it; each writeup has been published at the USRM, and all the links to them can be found on the "BumbleBeast" Thread, which is an Index; whose link is at my Signature. Also, at my "BumbleBeast" thread, you'll find a list of links to useful Downloadable Files related to Different Subarus. _________________________________________________________ Back on the KiaStein topic, I'm very Glad to inform that the Brake Pedal is Working Really Awesome, like Never ever Before. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Finally, the local Kia Dealer gave to me Both Backing Plates, which was the Last Thing Needed to Start the Rear Disc Brakes Swap, onto my Wife's "KiaStein" Despite that Gottacruise sent me a brand new set of Ceramic brake pads for the Rear Discs, I Purchased another brand new Set of brake Pads, because I wanted to have a Spare already on my Shelf, making use of having already a Sample in my Hands; to be Sure by the way, that those are available, here. Now I know what I'll be doing the upcoming weekend...Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Finally, I had the chance to park the "KiaStein" enough time to do the Rear Disc Brakes' Swap job.First I started by Cleansing & preparing everything for painting, using High Temp Ceramic anti-Rust Paint, which I had some Leftovers from my Subaru "BumbleBeast", in Yellow & Black. I chose to use the Wheel Hubs from the Drum Brakes, as their Ball Bearings were in Better Shape; the only difference between them and the ones for the Rear Disc Brakes' setup, are the small teeth on their inner side, to be used for the ABS Sensor; which will not be used at all, since the "KiaStein" doesn't have ABS Brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 The Painted Wheel Hubs:You can see the Caps and the Screws also Painted,on a Cardboard in the Background. The Painted Spindles: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 The Painted Rear Calipers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 I Also Cleansed & Painted the Front Calipers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Finally, thanks God, I Got Rid from the Rear Drum BrakesAlso, there lies the old Parkin' Brake Cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Left Side Before......and After! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Right Side Before......and After! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Now, the only problem I'm Facing, is with the Rear Flexible Brake Lines, those rubber and nylon Hoses were OK, but after Cleansing their metal end Fittings, I discovered that they were Rusted, to the point that even I punched an ⅛" hole during the cleaning procedures, as you can see: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 The Original Flexible Brake Line (Hose), has Kia Part Number: 0K2A-24-3810 ending with an "A", "B", or "C", the end metallic fittings are like Follows:► To the Car's Brake Lines side: Female thread of 10 mm x 1.0 Pitch, with Concave (Flared) Seat.► To the Caliper side: Banjo Fitting with 10 mm opening for Banjo Bolt, it has a Hook on the upper side to avoid movements that might get loose the bolt's clamping force. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 I already knew that I would face issues like this with used parts, it is normal; so I started to search for suitable replacements today. It took me all day long, but seems like I solved the Problem, let me Explain: First I went to many Junk Yards hoping to find a similar one with no avail; then I searched among many aftermarket parts' stores, there were so many stores, that I almost used half tank on my Subie, goin' from one place to another; 'till I ended at the Aftermarket Parts Stores' District, which is a Huge portion of the Downtown of "Comayagüela" City, dedicated only to car parts... there are hundreds of stores in all sizes & shapes. Let me Show you What I've found: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 At first, I found what seemed to be a Direct Replacement somehow:► the Same Total Lenght of 22", ► the same Diameter of ⅛" ► identical end fittings.I took with me a short 10 mm X 1.0 pitch screw to do tests and the results were Perfect. The Flexible Brake Line, is for the front of a Kia Frontier (K2700) 4X4 Truck, let me show you a Comparison Photo, taken with my Cellphone, that K2700 Flex line, next to the Sephia's / Spectra's Sample I have: The only differences between the Flexible lines were two, the placement for the part that holds it to the Shock Absorber's body is at different lenght, and the main part of the K2700 one is covered with a protective coil spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Also I Found that the Flexible Brake Line, Kia Part Number 0K30A-43-980E which belongs to the Front of a '00 ~ '01 Kia Rio, also is almost identical to the Sephia / Spectra one I carried as Sample; it even has the placement for the part that holds it to the Shock Absorber's body at the Same Lenght; it also has the same Diameter of ⅛" and identical end fittings; plus no coil spring.The only Difference is that the Kia Rio's one, measured exactly 2" less in Total Lenght, from the part that holds it to the Shock Absorber's body, to the mere Caliper. Here is a Photo of the Kia Rio's one: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 To chose between the K2700 one and the Rio One: That was the Dilemma.The Salesman at the Aftermarket Parts' Store, was very kind and let me try the Rio flex line there first, before buying, so I went to test it on the "KiaStein" and I noticed that if I don't attach the Flex Line to the Shock Absorber, there is more than Enough Total Lenght to the Flex Line for Working Safely, as it Should; But I need to "invent" something to Hold the Rio's Lines, instead the Shock Absorber's clip.The K2700 ones cost Twice the Price of the Rio ones, and also I would not be able to use the Shock Absorber's clip with them...So, I Purchased two Brand New Rio's Flex Lines and went home, thinkin' about using -maybe- the Clips that held the Old, Removed Parkin' Brake Cables, modified to Hold the New Flex Lines in place.Tomorrow will be another Day... I had Enough for Today. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 (edited) This is what I did: I fabricated an extension bracket using a piece of flat stock modified to use the existing clips, and I welded it in the Best position that such thing could be. Let me Show you: Left Side:Right Side: Edited May 23, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Yesterday (Friday) I almost finished everything, because I had to fix a Couple of things more that has nothing to do with the Brake System, such like a Bad Starter and a couple of Engine Mounts, pics soon.Today (Saturday) everything was finished early morning, then I first washed the car Clean, and went to do the Tests; I went alone and initially I used the brakes Slowly, to let the new parts to settle as they should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 Immediately I noticed two things:► Increased brake Pedal travel:I was expecting that, due to the increased size of the chambers for brake fluid at the rear Calipers; so that is "Normal" and that was the Reason why the Kia Engineers increased the Bore of the Master Cylinder from the 7/8" used on the Rear Drum Brakes' Setup, to the 15/16" used in the Rear Disc Brakes' Setup.In my Case, despite that I increased the Master Cylinder's Bore to 1", the increased brake Pedal travel is Noticeable, now the Pedal went back to "Normal" because it was pretty Tall with the Rear Drums Brakes still in the Car.► Increased Sensibility on the Brake Pedal.Now, the Pedal Features a Great Sensibility for Modulation of the brake force / Stopping Power, wich means that the first half of Travel is for Slow Down and you can modulate how fast you want to do that; but the Second Half is for Braking: Stopping Fast.So, the Pedal & Brakes Behaviour is just like a Brand New Car coming from the Dealer... The Pedal Travel is Adequate, the Modulation is Great, and now the Whole Car stops Super Quick, almost without Lockin' the Tires. (Tested several times on Dry Pavement and Dusty Roads) the Danger from Locking easily the Tires during Panic Braking, is Gone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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