GeneralDisorder Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 So I'm going to do timing belt, WP, etc on this '96 Legacy. It's got single port heads.... Now I've always been under the impression that single port heads = phase-II EJ22's. Am I wrong on this? I go on ebay to look at timing belt kits and they list 90 through 96, and then 3/1997 and up for kits. The tensioner is radically different between the two from what I can see of the pictures. Has the engine been swapped on this car? What's the deal? Were there some phase-I's with single port heads? Were there phase-II's with the phase-I belt system? What is going on here? I would like to order the kit before I tear into it - keeping it driveable and thus out of my garage and out of my way till the kit arrives. Also I have a buyer comming to drive the car tomorrow so I can't tear it apart and see what's in there...... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 So I'm going to do timing belt, WP, etc on this '96 Legacy. It's got single port heads.... Now I've always been under the impression that single port heads = phase-II EJ22's. Am I wrong on this? I go on ebay to look at timing belt kits and they list 90 through 96, and then 3/1997 and up for kits. The tensioner is radically different between the two from what I can see of the pictures. Has the engine been swapped on this car? What's the deal? Were there some phase-I's with single port heads? Were there phase-II's with the phase-I belt system? What is going on here? I would like to order the kit before I tear into it - keeping it driveable and thus out of my garage and out of my way till the kit arrives. Also I have a buyer comming to drive the car tomorrow so I can't tear it apart and see what's in there...... GD 96 ej 22 is different from 95 ej22, one has single port and one has dual port, and since 95 matches the ej25, 96 is the odd duck. i'm pretty sure 97 - 99 were the same as 95 ej22 and 96 - 99 ej25 as far as exhaust ports go. but i don't think that has any thing to do with the timing kit you need. i'm pretty sure the 96 kit will work on 90 - 96 at the very least, probably thru 98. the only thing that i'm aware of that changed was the tensioner, nothing else, but some one else will confirm. get the 96 kit and go. i think the older tensioners lasted longer any way. PLUS the 96 ej22 is non-interference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Just to add to the above.... The Phase I EJ22 was the '90-99 (per Wikipedia). Multiple changes thru-out the years, such as moving to single-port heads in '96, and head/valve changes making the engine interference in '97, but they remained Phase I. TD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 8, 2009 Author Share Posted November 8, 2009 So ultimately, this '96 engine is a strange animal. It's got single port head but it is NOT interferance? So what's the HP rating with the single port heads but without the valve changes making them interferance?? I should expect to see a tensioner like the 90-94 EJ22E (the log)? I've dealt with those before and from what I've read they are more reliable anyway..... never had to replace one. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 So ultimately, this '96 engine is a strange animal. It's got single port head but it is NOT interferance? Correct So what's the HP rating with the single port heads but without the valve changes making them interferance?? From Cars101.com: 2.2-L, 135 horsepower, 4 cylinder boxer engine, 16 valve single overhead cam, multiport fuel injected 140 ft lbs torque, electronic distributorless ignition I should expect to see a tensioner like the 90-94 EJ22E (the log)? I've dealt with those before and from what I've read they are more reliable anyway..... never had to replace one. GD Old style is my semi-educated guess.... For reference, I had an early '98 OB (mfg. date 8/97) that still had the old style tensioner...different engine, but I've read the EJ22 and EJ25 used the same timing pulleys and tensioners so very likely SOA didn't change either engine 'til '98-ish. TD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 96 has the old style tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 8, 2009 Share Posted November 8, 2009 Single port heads does not mean Phase II. Phase II was 1999 for the EJ22. Yes - 1996 and earlier is non interference. So essentially the motor changed every year or so during a short time period....95 dual port heads, 96 single port heads, 97 goes to interference, 99 goes to Phase II. 96 should be the old style (cheaper and more reliable) tensioner. 97 is the quirky year and needs to be visually verified (pull drivers side timing cover). The two tensioner styles are interchangeable if you get the aluminum bracket that holds the one you want to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 Excelent. I'm learning a lot about the EJ's now that I'm buying and selling a few. I'll order the 90 to 96 kit then. No need to replace the tensioner being it only has 113k. Had fun swapping differential gears today to get a 4.111 rear diff with "innies". Turns out you can just swap the new-style gears with the C-clip in them into the ring gear housing of the 4.111 diff. Thus I didn't need to buy another set of axles - already had both diffs - and by only changing the diff gears and not the R&P I don't have to set any clearances GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd7dej Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I personally wouldn't buy a whole kit. I would just get the belt that you know you will need. Get her apart and check all the pulleys, idlers, tensioners, etc. Only replace them if you inspect them and they are bad. I have a service manual on my pc for the car if you want I can email it to you detailing on how to inspect the individual parts. That way you save money and only replace what needs replacing. Most auto shops keep the parts in stock so you can jsut get em as you need em. Prices don't usually seem much cheaper on the internet. Unless you need to get the car put back together right away, I would just take my advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 I can get a kit off ebay with the belt, all idler and tensioner bearings, new cam and crank seals, and new water pump for $117 shipped to my door. As I am selling the car to a friend's daughter (he's a mechanic as well), I would rather just have it all replaced and new for that price. Yeah - maybe I could save $50 but I'll look like a total a$$hat if I try to save $50 and a bearing locks up before the belt is due..... GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd7dej Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I can get a kit off ebay with the belt, all idler and tensioner bearings, new cam and crank seals, and new water pump for $117 shipped to my door. As I am selling the car to a friend's daughter (he's a mechanic as well), I would rather just have it all replaced and new for that price. Yeah - maybe I could save $50 but I'll look like a total a$$hat if I try to save $50 and a bearing locks up before the belt is due..... GD Yeah, I wouldn't mess up with a friend. No Bueno! That's a pretty good price too! I just did mine about 5k ago and I think my local shop wanted $135 for a complete kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 at 10+ years old it's very rare to find any bearings still in "like new" condition. i almost always replace all the bearings. a recent 1998 is the first EJ i've ever worked on that really didn't need any except for the sprocketed one, which is always needed. the others were actually tight, first time for everytyhing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 I personally wouldn't buy a whole kit. I would just get the belt that you know you will need. Get her apart and check all the pulleys, idlers, tensioners, etc. Only replace them if you inspect them and they are bad. It's such a pain in the rump roast to get to the idlers on these, (or any other car for that matter) you'd be stupid not to replace them while you have easy access. In 6 months when that one idler that you decided not to replace locks up and snaps the timing belt, you get to tear the front half of the engine off again, and spend more money on another new belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobaru Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 GD how good was this kit? thats the same motor Ill be working on later could post link to seller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 96 should be the old style (cheaper and more reliable) tensioner. 97 is the quirky year and needs to be visually verified (pull drivers side timing cover). The two tensioner styles are interchangeable if you get the aluminum bracket that holds the one you want to the engine. Yup. I just did the timing belt and idlers on my '97 impreza, and it had the old style tensioner. But, we didn't know for sure till opening it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 GD how good was this kit? thats the same motor Ill be working on later could post link to seller The kit worked out just fine - no complaints at all - here's the seller I used: http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mizumoauto/ GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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