Replacing the breaks and knuckle on a 96 OBW, MAYBE?

[MischivousSlpwlkr]

So I've had a weird screaching noise coming from my front passenger side wheel when I brake at low speeds for a short(ish) while, which is sometimes accompanied by a light clunck, especially when making left turns. I suspected it was the wheel bearing. I brought it in to a shop, which came highly recommended as honest, and they said that was true, and then found a laundry list of other problems. Most of them are believeable. It does seem like it is time to get rid of the car, but I just dropped $1500 worth of tranny and clutch into it, so that isn't really an option now. Of course I don't have the money to fix it properly either (3rd year grad student), so I'm sorta stuck here, in a city that totally sucks without a car.

 

They say at the very least, I need a new wheel bearing, probably a new hub, and the ball joint looks very rusted, so probably one of those as well. And new front brake calipers, rotors, and pads.

 

They also say I need new rack boots, a left axel boot (I never noticed that but I'll look again when I get the car), a cam plug, valve gaskets (the last two have leaked since i got the car. whatever...), right down to an air filter. I'm not going to worry about this for now, but I figure I still need to consider it when weighing my options.

 

 

They are quoting me $470 for the bearing and hub, and $712 for the brakes. Just called them again to tell them I was gonna pick it up and think about it. This time they said they will work with used parts, but don't have an estimate worked up yet. Also, they said they might be able to work out a better price on breaks.

 

So, I'm thinking that unless he comes up with some much better numbers I might attempt this myself. I have never done any major work, but I am sort of mechanically inclined, and I've changed my brake pads, thermostat, speed sensor, and assorted other light work.

 

How hard would it be for me to get a decent knuckle with a bearing in it at a junk yard and swap it out over the weekend? Possible? And change the ball joint while I'm down there. Are there lots of special tools required? I've got standard wrenches and stuff, and the sub service manuel, so I figure that could help.

 

Same question, but for the brakes....seems like those would be easier. Can I do this?

 

I'm also considering maybe letting the shop do the front end stuff, and I'd do the brakes myself?

 

Any advice would be much appreciated. Also, I'm in Denver if it matters.

THANKS!

Edited November 13, 2009 by MischivousSlpwlkr
New phone call with shop

[Fairtax4me]

So I've had a weird screaching noise coming from my front passenger side wheel when I brake at low speeds for a short(ish) while, which is sometimes accompanied by a light clunck, especially when making left turns. I suspected it was the wheel bearing.

That sounds like worn brake pads and a loose tie rod end or lower ball joint.

 

I see no reason to replace brake calipers unless they are leaking (around the piston) or the slide pins are completely rusted into the caliper and they can't be removed.

Most of the time a new pads will suffice, and put some new grease on the slide pins. But if the slide pins are stuck, they need to be removed and either cleaned and lubricated (high temp grease) or replaced. The rotors may be grooved. You can have a machine shop turn them for a small fee, but they're only like $25 for brand new ones. You should just go ahead and replace them.

All this can be done easily by the DIY mechanic with basic tools. It always helps if you can find a friend who knows more about it and get him/her to help.

 

The ball joints are pretty easy to replace actually. (or at least should be) But you'll probably need a ball joint separator. They're $10 or so at most parts places.

 

A split steering rack boot is fairly easy to replace, but the inner rod end may be loose if it has been exposed for any length of time. That is also easily replaceable, but requires an alignment afterwards. If you're gonna replace the boot, you might as well get the rod too.

 

The wheel bearing is the hard part, and the easiest way is with a used knuckle, but I'm not sure you need one. You can do a few basic tests to detect play or wear in a wheel bearing. Searching the forums here should yield a few threads detailing the procedure.

[MischivousSlpwlkr]

Thanks Fairtax, that is helpful.

 

I am pretty sure the bearing is a problem. Even though it was replaced a year ago, when I jacked the car up, there was tons of play in the whole hub when I shook the tire. Also, when I turn right, noise seems to stop, then comes back on a left hand turn.

 

The rotors are shot, I've been meaning to replace them.

 

He says the calipers are like 75% seized up and need to be replaced. I've checked the pads myself, and they aren't completely shot, but I'd imagine would be worth replacing with everything else.

 

I'm really thinking that even changing the calipers won't be too hard, so that leaves the whole knuckle swap. How hard is that gonna be? How many special tools will I need? Is it fairly straight forward, or are there a lot of wierd little things in there that I don't know about?

[Fairtax4me]

Swapping the knuckle is pretty easy. Disconnect the brake line and hose, remove all brake components. Loosen and remove the axle nut, then drive the axle out. Pop loose the ball joint and tie rod end. Then remove the two large bolts that hold the knuckle to the strut. The axle won't come out all the way until you get the ball joint loose from the control arm, or separate the knuckle from the strut. You may want a ball joint separator, to get the ball joint and tie rod end loose, but it's not 100% necessary. You can loosen the castle nut to the end of the stud and then wail on it with a hammer to knock it loose.

 

A pic for reference...

Edited November 14, 2009 by Fairtax4me