Why can I not go any faster?

[Quidam]

If you have points...I'd convert it to electronic. I know Pertronix has an aftermarket kit for your car. $80.00 or so. Is there a Subaru distributor you can use?

 

If you can make 200 hp with it, Centerforce has a clutch kit that will hold it. It's the same clutch for a Justy.

[Dirk]

I have spoken to a pertronix dealer here who has what I need but he wants nearly $400 kiwi dollors for it! I think can can use a dizzy from a later EA71 but as yet have not found one.

 

200bhp! I'd be very happy just to get 80

[Quidam]

 

I will run into fuel cut if I empty the float bowls.

 

I'll use this for the dual fuel line, adapted to fit. It's three eights and I won't need those large fittings. It will point towards the drivers side.

Edited December 3, 2009 by Quidam

[Quidam]

Here is a Crane Cams Optical that looks good. Tho you wouldn't have readily avaliable spare parts if you need them.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-700-0292/SuggestedParts/?prefilter=0

 

It's a hundred ten plus shipping. Order the MSD adjustable vacume advance canister too, while you're at it. We'll need it.

Edited December 3, 2009 by Quidam

[Dirk]

Thanks.

[Quidam]

I know where I can buy one of these for three hundred dollars.

 

 

Program your ride to maximize performance.

 

These Programmable Digital-7 CD Plus ignitions from MSD have an output power and Individual Cylinder Management timing system that are hard to beat. At the heart of these ignitions is a 15 MHz micro-controller that analyzes and manages every trigger signal. Their capacitive discharge circuits and state-of-the-art IGBT coil drivers work together to deliver a potent spark that can easily handle high cylinder pressures. Below 3,300 rpm, a series of sparks burn in the cylinder over 20 degrees of crankshaft rotation, producing a smooth idle with great throttle response. You can control all of this spark energy through an array of timing and rpm programs. These programs include: Individual cylinder timing that can program up to 10 degrees per cylinder in .1 degree increments, a launch retard that lets you retard the timing up to 15 degrees for 0-2.5 seconds after the launch, a launch timing curve, and a run curve enabling you to plot a timing curve in .1 degree increments per 100 rpm. They also feature a three-step retard, a gear retard that can retard timing up to 5 degrees with every gear change, a start retard, three rev limiters, a shift light, and an rpm-activated window switch. You can also map a complete timing curve for every gear, set stage retards to ramp timing, see updated X-Y plots with interpolation for smooth changes, view all ignition events in a new Launch History window, acquire 20 seconds of run data including two seconds prior to launch, program an rpm that is ramped in during the launch, and select vacuum advance and boost retard through a MAP sensor. They can be used on 4, 6, or 8-cylinder engines, and are supplied with the Pro-Data Plus software, PC harness, vibrations mounts, and wiring. An optional hand-held MSD Programmer Monitor is available separately.

 

Edit:One of these just sold for six fifty.

 

For racers with absurd amounts of boost pressure or nitrous being injected, the search for an ignition with the voltage and current output to match, ends with the MSD 10-PLUS. Ignition savvy racers will note that the MSD 10-PLUS isn’t exactly new as it is definitely rooted to the proven MSD 10 Ignition. Our engineers were able to take that proven performance and combine it with our patented Stacker Ignition (CD/Inductive) technology to create an ignition and single coil package with even more spark energy and voltage! The 10-PLUS coil is designed specifically to handle the CD and Inductive sparking characteristics of the 10-PLUS. This coil is completely hand assembled in-house at MSD with a segmented Rynite bobbin and unique windings that are capable of handling the 630 volts and up to 700 mJ of spark energy that the Ignition produces. Together, the system produces a spark that glows across the plug gap for 20°-30° and is assured to burn whatever fuel you can throw at it. The MSD 10-PLUS features a built-in Two Step Rev Control for an easy to set launch limit and important overrev rpm limit.

Edited December 3, 2009 by Quidam

[Quidam]

They ship worldwide, $77.00. Pertronix. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200346157018&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

 

I converted my fourty year old rototiller to electronic ignition.

[Quidam]

 

I need the carb kit and a final cleaning/going over to assemble. I'll need more airflow and I can remove the choke if I need to. I'll need to rebush the throttle shafts and seal them. More airflow, knife edge the throttle blades, thin the throttle shafts, button screws. Will flow much more cfm.

Edited December 3, 2009 by Quidam

[Quidam]

 

Lower left, bowl vent solenoid valve. Lower right, anti-dieseling switch. I won't need either. These two are wired on the same harness as the electric choke. Lower center is the factory type manual choke cable holder. You hook the cable to a factory supplied arm to close/open the choke. It has an electric choke housing on it too.

 

Top left and top right, I don't know what they are exactly, but I won't need them.

 

Doug

[Quidam]

These are Webber power valves. Interesting.

[Dirk]

Them is mighty big holes! What size engine was the weber set up for?

[Quidam]

I don't know but, I've looked at it real close and compared it to the ones I have from the Hitachi. I'm 99% sure it would screw into my carb.

 

The Weber jets are the same thread as the Hitachi but...how they seat against the body is different.

 

Doug

[Quidam]

 

Edit: Hey Dirk, Check this out. This is a gen 1 EA-82 T head, has 104,000 miles on it. I can improve that same ledge shape, but it's no where near as bad as the NOS gen 1 head above. This car was never overheated, ever, I'm told.

 

 

 

Hey,

 

You said back there: "So why are these mods a good idea? And if they are, Why did Subaru not do them in the factory. They seem to be simple things but Subaru must have had very good reasons to do things the way they did."

 

Simple things, obvious things. Look at the blue marker spot on the left intake valve, for instance. From the factory when they put the valve seat in. It has a verticle ledge about three mm deep. It has very sharp and rough edges. They are all like this to some extent. It's horrible, so why didn't Sibari fix that? I don't know. It just happens to be where the heads crack.

Edited December 5, 2009 by Quidam

[Quidam]

Hey,

 

Check this out. It's a generic photo, but they make them for your car. They're called, "LIMELITE .500". The same color as your car! You could rock these.

 

 

But in it's present condition, and if you have a new set of quality wires on it. It won't make your car any faster. Man, you should read their claims tho!

 

But that .500 part, that could be real important, if you can ever use that Centerforce Clutch. If you get to that point, I could tell you why.

 

Doug

 

Edit: PS, read this:

 

 

MPG/PLUS GAS SAVING IGNITION WIRE SET

• <LI type=circle>Granatelli Performance Ignition Wire Set is GUARANTEED to boost your MPG to 15%! <LI type=circle>Boosts horsepower and torque and ensures a smoother running engine <LI type=circle>Rates 0-ohm resistance (compare to 4,000-7,000 ohms for conventional wires)
  
• Easy DIY installation
  

Granatelli's MPG/Plus Performance Ignition Set is an easy way to significantly increase your gas mileage…not a bad idea these days! Also increases horsepower and torque for better engine performance and a more responsive ride. The MPG/Plus Performance Ignition Set features 0-ohm resistance solid stainless steel core wires plus an RFI/EFI Hybrid Protection Ring that prevents stereo noise and allows full coil power to reach the spark plug. The result is full power, a hotter spark, more complete combustion, better fuel efficiency, more power and better overall performance…without replacing the coil! Premium technology throughout: stainless steel inner core for high tensile strength, silver plated copper outer core for high conductivity, EPDM insulation, fiberglass braiding for strength, 500° silicone jacket and boots and heavy-duty stainless steel snap-lock terminals at the spark plug! Meets or exceeds OEM specifications. Limited lifetime warra

 

They sure do talk sweet, now I want a set!

Edited December 7, 2009 by Quidam

[Dirk]

They sure do talk sweet, now I want a set!

 

Me Too! If only for the colour.

 

Garanteed 15% better mpg? Quite a statment. Subject to conditions I'm sure....

 

I'm more interested in your last post about the heads. Its becoming clear to me that when I next rebuild I need to go over every part with a finetooth comb. Would love to fix all these things and say for sure that I have done all that can be done to ensure a premium function. If I can do this then I will treat myself to those leads.

[Quidam]

 

Hi Dirk,

 

Well, there's my W. German 7mm Blue Thunder, multi strand copper core, EPDM, Kevlar, copper/nickel (monel), zink-plate steel, latex silicone plug wires. The only thing those LIMELITE .500 wires have on these is stainless terminals and that .500.

 

I'm going to make my Subaru faster by lifting those valves higher. Since the compression ring is the only thing in my motor drawing the intake charge in, I'm going to help it out, so it can draw in more. I'm going to give it more time to do it's job too. That would make your Subie faster.

 

Doug

Edited December 7, 2009 by Quidam

[Quidam]

Hey Dirk,

 

I made a template so I can make the flange for the exhaust header.

 

I can make it from 5/16" or 3/8". The tubing choices are 18 gage and 16 gage.

 

To make my car faster, I'm going with 5/16" and 18 gage. You could do something like that.

 

It will weigh less than using heavy stuff and your car will be faster.

 

Doug

[Quidam]

Dirk,

 

I ran into a problem trying to make my car faster. I don't know how much compression I can run on Sunoco 94 pump gas, and how my OEM computer will deal with all of it.

 

Doug

[Quidam]

Well Dirk, it's just one problem after another.

 

My motor doesn't have a knock sensor on it and my first choice is to have one tuned for each cylinder.

 

But I'd be in over my head with that one.

 

I drove a 1982 Chevy Beauville off the showroom floor new. It had ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL. It even had a chrome plated badge on the left rear door advertising the fact. It was Carbureted non feedback.

 

I still have the whole system. Can I use that?

 

Doug

[Quidam]

Hey Dirk,

 

This guy did stuff to make his car a lot faster. Have you seen it? http://subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=1807

 

But I have to tell you, I'm in fear for that engines life. Take a look at his spark plug wires.

 

He has three coils looks like, with OEM type used wires. There's a reason GM went to huge distributor caps. Mfg's went to coil near plug, coil on plug. What else...

 

Anyway, with the power he's making his plug wires should be at least 12mm away from each other and any metal.

 

We're talking bore splitting, head cracking, gasket blowing, type of stuff here with the power he's making. NASCAR runs big sleeves on theirs.

 

I cracked the piston skirts on three forged TRW's one time. This is what that came back to. Live and learn, huh?

 

Later on,

 

Doug

[Dirk]

Look what I got from TradeMe for 50 Kiwi's

 

 

I also got a compression tester. Readings were 162psi plus or minus one or two for all cylinders. Cool!

 

Now I just have to get a vacum gauge. The Weber looks massive compared to the Hitachi so I suspect it will stay on the shelf for another project but I couldn't resist buying it.

[Quidam]

Hey,

 

Man, that's a good deal for 50 Kiwi's. Barter is coming back here like that...I traded a stainless rifle and 30 Bucks for a Subaru and a dog.

 

That water choke, I've never ran one. I have experience with Motorcraft, Rochester, Holley, of all sorts. Now with Hitachi, some Tilison, etc. I need to take a closer look at Weber.

 

Here's my Hitachi. I put a kit in it and soaked it in carb cleaner a couple of times. Had some deposits in the float bowl that a soak in vinegar removed. I need to take it apart one more time...one piece of brass that hasn't come out yet. It's up to about 30 pieces of brass in it, I'll count them the next time:) The accelerater pump is leather.

 

I'll be adapting to a FI lower manifold.

 

 

Doug

Edited February 27, 2010 by Quidam

[Dirk]

I've been reading up a bit on the 80s sub forum. I got a lot out of the EA tuning article. Thanks to who ever wrote it!

 

So I've re built my exhaust reletive to this article.

 

My old exhaust had a 42mm header and then 38mm pipe all the way back (with stock mufflers).

 

I now have 42mm header as before then 45mm pipe to the main muffler and 50mm pipe after the main muffler.

 

So far there is no major difference but I know the mechanical advance on my distributor is a bit funky so I will fix this before I make a conclusion.

 

Interestingly the engine now starts easier with less choke.

 

This got me thinking whether or nbot I need to re-tune the carb now?

 

Comments please?

 

Cheers.

 

Dirk.

[Dirk]

Is Flow Velocity affective throughout the full length of an exhaust pipe?

[Dirk]

Hey Dirk,

 

This guy did stuff to make his car a lot faster. Have you seen it? http://subarujusty.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=1807

 

 

WOW!

 

Only just seen this post. That is one major face lift. I love the cooling system. Its more complex than the compressors.