hardtail_pride Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Looks like my water pump has started seeping a small puddle maybe the size of a dollar bill at most upon starting up. The loyale has been having a lot of new problems as the weather turns cold. How long will the pump continue seeping before it just dumps out all my coolant? Can i re seal the pump? Or should it just be replaced? Also Loyale does not like to idle up to the 2500 for warm up on its own. The screws have been messed with :-\ thanks dad. Once it starts warming up it will jump up to 1500 and drop periodically for 5 minutes till fully warmed up. But it would be nice to be able to start the dang car and not have to be giving it gas, just let it regulate itself. So point me in the right direction. I need almost an idle setting guide for idiots. I have tried everything i know and so has my dad. (cleaning included) Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Replace the pump. Might only last a couple miles. When they go it's usually quick. As for the idle - clean your IAC and go from there. Check the CTS for correct resistance when cold. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 21, 2009 Author Share Posted November 21, 2009 What has to be removed to get to the water pump? - Ac, Ps pump, belts, fan..... more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 It's a timing belt job. You have to strip it down till you can get the driver's side t-belt off. EA82 right? If it were an EA81 then you would have to remove..... the water pump/alternator belt. Heh. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 Oh yay! not its an ea 82. I had a shop quote me 250 bucks to replace it. I may go that route instead of tearing into it myself now that its colder outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 (edited) It's an easy job and you may as well do the t-belts, idler, and tensioners while you are in there. Reseal the oil pump, etc. That shop will charge you more than the parts to do everything will run, and they will replace ONLY the water pump and use a crappy brand to boot. Don't let some futz at a garage touch your car. It will hate your for it. It's not that cold - don't be a baby. Hell I'm 50% older than you and unless it was below 0 out (in which case I would rent someone's garage for the afternoon ) I would be out there putting that pump on. GD Edited November 22, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 Haha GD your funny and a good motivational speaker. Could all that be done in a day or so? (by someone who has never done this repair before?) Its my Daily Driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 And also, what brands should i buy? How much will all these add on parts cost in the end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 If you have a decent selection of tools, it shouldn't take more than a day to do the timing belts and water pump if it's your first time out. It's a 3 hour job for those who have done it before (with the cover's on). Familarize yourself with the procedure before you start. More than one person has been totally confused by the dual-belt setup of the EA82's. As for parts - the ebay kit for the timing belts is what I reccomend. It's very cheap and all the parts will be replaced again in 50k miles. Thus there is no reason to use uber-expensive parts here. I like the Atsugi (SP?) water pumps. They are the OEM manufacturer and typically run about $50 or $60. Check around - my local Discount Import Parts has them.... Rockauto maybe or even one of the online Subaru dealers... also get the cam and crank seals and the oil pump seal kit from the dealer - they are inexpensive. It shouldn't be more than about $175 to $200 for all the parts but your engine will be set for 50 to 60k for SURE. Unlike paying a shop $250 and having the timing belt break in 10k, or something start leaking, or the lifters start ticking. Those guys are in the business of working on your car - not making sure you don't come back. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Alright your lighting the fire underneath me to do this project. next pay check is going to be my "winterize" the Subaru funds for this project. I will spend the next week or so familiarizing myself with the procedure. I was hoping there was a cam shaft seal involved cause that is the only leak i have left besides a little antifreeze in the morning. -So you dont replace the oil pump in this process? It hasn't started showing the TOD till recently. Maybe mine is still good? -Im thinking of leaving off the timing covers, mostly because i know a few bolts are already stripped. What are the pros and cons of doing this? Thanks for the info GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-94-Subaru-1-8-GL-DL-Loyale-Master-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad4fdb1faQQitemZ390120452602QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Looks like this kit has everything short of water pump and gaskets for the pump. Am i right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Yep. Look around on ebay though - I bought an EJ22 kit with the belt, all 4 belt bearings, cam+crank seals, and water pump for $117 shipped. Insanely cheap. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Oh wow, how about this? It should fit my 94 loyale right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Timing-Belt-Kit-and-Waterpump-for-Subaru-GL-1987_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20ae23c6a5QQitemZ140360533669QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 You have to watch out for the water pump's - there are two shaft lengths depending on which belt arrangment you have. Other folks will know more specifics about which one's go with which. But that auction doesn't really give enough info on the car the parts were supposed to be for to tell which pump he bought either so..... I would steer clear of Mr. Retard there that can't fix his warped head. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 haha okay. One more question. So i went down to see if i could tell exactly where the dripping was coming from. It will drip out from behind the timing belt covers directly below the water pump. Just want to make sure i diagnose this correctly. Could it be as simple as the pipe that is connected to the pump which goes to the lower radiator inlet having a loose bolt casing it to leak? IF there even is a bolt? I haven't taken apart the motor far enough to know. How does the metal tubing connect to the water pump anyway? Thanks for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 It's an o-ring, and a fiddly one at that. If you aren't totally sure then make sure it's not the lower radiator hose pipe o-ring that seals to the pump housing and make sure it's not the water pump bypass hose above the pump - it's under the alternator/AC bracketry and is often overlooked. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 I did have to wiggle the hose on quite a bit to the metal shaft and might have messed up the o ring. It has been doing this drip leaking for a couple weeks now. It just drips a bit in the morning at start up then i believe goes away during normal operating temps. I am all for doing this timing belt and pump procedure, but if its just this o ring, and i can put the project off till spring and ride my motorcycle for a day or 2 that would be preferable. I need to tighten my belts again, so maybe tomorrow i will tear into removing the ac and alt systems to get a better look. Thanks as always! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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