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BOSS Gen 1 BRAT/4wd lift kit Christmas Deal


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I'm working on a 1981 Brat gl and would like to lift it. Looks like you do a great job on the lifts, but my problem is I live in WV and I can only list it 3 inches and keep it road legal. Do you think you might do any 3 inch kits, and if not, could you sell me some plans for making them? I can make my own I'm pretty handy at fabricating myself, and I was thinking of trying it anyway, but it would be nice to bypass unforeseen mistakes, and since you've already done it, you know what to look for. Everything looks easy except the strut tower and rear tube mount.

 

You wont be looked at for 4 inches it only puts you at stock jeep cherokee height

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  • 5 weeks later...

Wow, this is great!! I've been searching a while for a lift for my gen1 wagon. I know it works great on the Brat's but has anyone tried it on a wagon yet? I have a 77 wagon and would love to lift it but waned to be sure it would fit the wagon as well. Thanks....pete

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  • 2 weeks later...

:banana:

 

post-12974-13602764565_thumb.jpg

 

More Pics: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=100340&id=1344730058&l=d53631b3b2

 

4" lift, Gen II Vented disk brakes, new Axles up front, NEW load leveler shocks on the rear with custom top mounts (from the front of a 1986 OLDs 82? or something)

 

Still have to mod front bumper / push bar, fix exhaust (it leaks now cause i bent it during lift)

 

Its great. Thanks for the kit!

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Thanks Oleman77,

 

It's a good kit, Used 14" pugs with 195/65R14. There is several good tires available in this size. No offroad tires though. I am going to make my own soon.

 

It could defntally use larger size tires as far as looks go, but this size is more practical as I can still climb very steep grades and it's not too slow with this tire size there is a 14" BFG mud tire but it's 27" and it would get into the rear suspension.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Hi Bill,

I bought RebelYJ's 4 inch lift kit last year and am almost finished with the install on my '78 BRAT. One issue: The front suspension leading rods appear slightly short with the lift blocks in. To make the recommended torque on the leading rod nuts (at the back) I have to tighten them all the way to squish the rubber bushings. After doing that, I'm about half a bolt hole off the trans crossmember lift block. Any thoughts on the best way to fix this? My truck isn't bent as far as I can tell, and I haven't test fit the engine/trans to see if the 2 crossmembers are the correct distance from each other. Should I just shim the leading rods to the lift blocks? Also, have you found any coilover shocks (or regular shocks) that fit after the lift is installed? Anyone else's thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks for the kit-nice job.

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Talldude,

 

Please post a picture of your problem as I am kinda confused. Also there will be some play in the whole front end setup as that is a lot of bolt holes. Also I found That I had to slot one set of holes on one side only slightly (about .25" or so as I didn't want to bend and put a torque on the frame or the transmission, .25 inches won't do anything bad to the geometry of the motor / trans. Also make sure nothing is backwords.

 

-Daniel

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I'll post a few pics as soon as I can get out there with a camera. It seems that the leading rods (they connect the front lower control arms with the trans xmember) dictate the distance between the engine and trans xmembers, and I don't want to load up the control arm bushings too much, either. I'd say I'm .25+ inches aft on my trans xmember lift block holes, all 4. Regarding the shocks question, I meant rear shocks. Can't wait to drive this thing in the snow here- it's gonna be great!

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Here's pics of the undercarriage (hopefully they are attached). The trans xmember blocks are not installed as I am undecided as how to proceed: shim the leading rods so all blocks bolt on, or slot the holes in the xmember lift blocks to fit to the leading rods and engine crossmember. I just don't want to throw off the engine/transmission mount relationship.

post-32555-136027648882_thumb.jpg

post-32555-136027648891_thumb.jpg

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wow, all i can say is CLEAN! :banana:

 

i would slot one set of holes slightly, then bolt everything up and leave the slotted holes slightly loose, let the car down and see how it sits... Looks like its going to be great.

 

Oh and for the Rear suspension, I will upload a pic or two of my setup, I used some monroe load leveler shocks from some olds that was in the monroe book, found a shock with same travel as original brat, different length though. They sure help when the rear is loaded down or pulling my brat trailer, they give just 200# push each when the load is heavy and help keep the rear from squatting, although it does not increase the carry capacity, it sure makes the car look better when loaded...

 

-Daniel

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I'll post a few pics as soon as I can get out there with a camera. It seems that the leading rods (they connect the front lower control arms with the trans xmember) dictate the distance between the engine and trans xmembers, and I don't want to load up the control arm bushings too much, either. I'd say I'm .25+ inches aft on my trans xmember lift block holes, all 4. Regarding the shocks question, I meant rear shocks. Can't wait to drive this thing in the snow here- it's gonna be great!

 

OK, here is the part i used: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=294387

 

Part number is Monroe 58270 ST. This shock is a front shock made for a big OLDS from the 70s or 80s, cant remember the exact car now, but it does really well on the rear of the brat.

 

I had my fab shop build this bracket for me and installed as shown in this picture as the travel is correct but the overall length is not with the lift.

 

Oh and YES SNOW / ICE is Awesome, even in Dallas, I pulled out several full size pickups that were spinning and stuck on the curb on the ice with the little brat. people could not believe that my little brat with 67 HP could move there big bloated trucks and without slipping!

 

Here is my FUN ice Video:

 

pic one

http://img850.imageshack.us/i/cimg0463u.jpg/

 

Pic two

http://img28.imageshack.us/i/cimg0464b.jpg/

 

All progress Photos:

 

Also I have a drawing for the steel shock mount if you want it. email me at (my USMB user name) @gmail.com

 

-Daniel

Edited by danrenfroe2016
left out part number!
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Thanks for the info. I am leaning towards slotting the trans xmember lift blocks, as I figure the leading rod dimension is a good one for the engine to trans xmembers relationship. Mine has been in pieces so long it feels like it will never get done, but a little bit each week...I hope to be driving it by next spring. Nice pix of your rig too, BTW!

post-32555-136027649161_thumb.jpg

post-32555-136027649168_thumb.jpg

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OK, I slotted the trans xmember blocks about 3/8 inch and everything bolted up. Now to see how the engine and trans mounts fit with everything assembled.

 

Cool. Also i have the part numbers for the longer brake lines somewhere. Just gota find them.

 

-Daniel

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Always like part #s. Not sure about rear shocks yet, but I think I'd like to mount them in the fenders like stock. Coilovers for sure, though. What did you do to extend your steering? Looks like a 3 inch extension on the lower shaft (just above the rack) should do it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mine is bolted directly to the steering box shaft for now, but I have a new rubber coupler on order through LD, $38. There's like 15 left in the US, they say. That's got to be one of the most plentiful gen 1 dealer parts out there...

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