Desertnate Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Hello all...I'm in desperate search of answers and are hoping someone here might be able to help. I've already searched here on this topic but only came across one thread that didn't really go very far, so I'm hoping that I maybe I was just not using the right key words... Here is the problem. I have a '99 Legacy Outback with around 95K miles. Just before selling the car, the original owner experienced rough running and massive loss of power, which was corrected by simply re-starting the car. The error code being thrown was 1507. A trip to a mechanic saw the valve cleaned out. The error came out soon again and the valve was replaced by the dealer. After I bought the car, it ran great for quite a while until the same problems came up. I took it to a different dealer who found a leak around the air cleaner due to a poorly fitting filter. The problem came up a few times again last winter, but at random times/conditions After nearly 7 months of error free driving the problem is back. The first time the engine flat out died with my daughter at the wheel and caused her to roll into another vehicle in a parking lot. Today the light came on while she was driving to school, with no symptoms other than the light. The light went off right after we had the codes read at AutoZone. I'm really at a loss as to how to fix this problem. One Indie mechanic and two dealership visits and the problem still persists...though not as often. No one can seem to solve it. I have thought of replacing the neutral switch, but lately the errors are popping up when the car is running in gear...not when the clutch is in. The IAC has been replaced about two years ago. I've replaced the air filter, fuel filter, and run a can of Seafoam through the induction system and fuel tank. I've talked at length with the guru's on LegacyOutback.net, read tons of stuff on NASIOC and any other forum/web site I can found. Nothing I've found yet has been very conclusive nor has anyone been able to fix the problem. Any insight or further suggestions? I really don't want my daughter driving a car that could crap out on her in the middle of a busy intersection...or worse, her high school parking lot, which is much more dangerous! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 (edited) You have been directed to read this then I take it? http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DiagTroubSum04.pdf Sounds like you are a walking, talking example of this intermittant neutral switch in action. The neutral switch is reporting that the tranny is in neutral when it is not - thus the engine tries to idle back, fails because it's under a load, dies and sets the code. The idle air controller is working but the ECU thinks it isn't - because it refuses to do what the ECU wants it to - when in fact the ECU is doing the wrong thing due to poor data collection. Sounds like they are describing your problem to me. Am I not understanding correctly? Oh and the neutral switch is on the side of the tranny - doesn't have anything to do with the clutch being pushed or not. GD Edited December 1, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Switches are often the causes of intermittent symptoms. I'd grab a switch from a junkyard to try. Also be sure to check the contacts in the wire harness plug to the switch. Corrosion/dirt/water causing a bad connection can lead to a lot of problems. To clarify, the switch in question is the neutral position switch, not the neutral/clutch start switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 +1^..What they said... Seen it many, many times...If you have access to a really good scanner (perhaps the only one that can read this is the select monitor, but others might be able to as well....) you can sit there and watch the position of the switch as you move the shifter in and out of neutral.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desertnate Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 I had seen the document listed here, but no one really had any confidence that it would solve the problem. However, in the past no one could really explain why that switch going bad would cause the problem or had any experience swapping it out or knew how/why it would change anything. I'm curious why neither of the dealer's even looked at this as an option when it was obvious that the IAC valve wasn't to blame any longer. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I've worked on a car with this exact problem, what they directed me to do was to connect the Select Monitor and GRAPH the neutral switch and run it through the gears, and sure enough it wouldn't always read correctly. Replaced the switch and the sealing ring and the problem went away. That's where I would start. You have been directed to read this then I take it? http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/DiagTroubSum04.pdf Sounds like you are a walking, talking example of this intermittant neutral switch in action. The neutral switch is reporting that the tranny is in neutral when it is not - thus the engine tries to idle back, fails because it's under a load, dies and sets the code. The idle air controller is working but the ECU thinks it isn't - because it refuses to do what the ECU wants it to - when in fact the ECU is doing the wrong thing due to poor data collection. Sounds like they are describing your problem to me. Am I not understanding correctly? Oh and the neutral switch is on the side of the tranny - doesn't have anything to do with the clutch being pushed or not. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 +1^..What they said... Seen it many, many times...If you have access to a really good scanner (perhaps the only one that can read this is the select monitor, but others might be able to as well....) you can sit there and watch the position of the switch as you move the shifter in and out of neutral.. You need a scanner that will GRAPH this as you might not catch it if it just shows on/off since sometimes they switch pretty quickly. (That's how I was able to catch this one on the car I worked on with this problem) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangthegreat Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 :confused:I have a 98 Outback Limited I have the exact problems above, I just replaced the neutral switch as well as the IAC valve complete. Neither have fixed it. I still get the error code and then the limp mode runs on 2-3 cylinders. I cycle the ignition and it runs OK for anywhere from 30 to 3,000 miles. Prior to these recent repairs I have replaced the following in the last year: head gasket update intake gaskets exhaust flange gaskets outer valve cover gaskets inner valve cover gaskets valve cover bolt seals rear cam plugs cam seals exhaust flange nuts oil and filter (regularly) drain plug gasket coolant belts radiator crankcase breather update timing belt tensioner idlers water pump thermostat clutch fuel pump and sending unit alternator coil ECU speed sensor CV boot right passenger front under Cat cleaned connections on speedometer Car has 171k on it, doesn't smoke, consumes 1 qt oil every 2k, Please help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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