considering a split boot

[androider]

I'm looking to replace my deteriorating front inboard passenger side cv boot with a split boot, thus forgoing the need to remove the whole driveaxle. But I am having a hard time finding one. Its an '88 GL wagon 4WD. I just replaced one of the rear axles and the painful memories of frozen nuts and bleeding knuckles is too fresh. I know the downfalls of split boots, but my poor little suby is getting tired and I think the split boot would probably outlast the car (unfortunately). Any suggestions or ideas on where to look?

[GeneralDisorder]

If you think the car has only a few thousand miles left in it then by all means.

 

Frankly though the split boot isn't any easier to install than regular boots on a Subaru. You don't have to remove the axle from the car. Just pop the ball joint out of the knuckle, drive the spring pin out of the inner joint and pull the joint off the tranny. Remove the inner joint, both boots, and replace with new boots and new grease. Easily done.

 

I prefer to remove the whole axle but it's only about a 20 minute job for me.

 

GD

[idosubaru]

Split boots are terrible, save yourself the agony. If you don't want to repair it properly, just pack it with grease and then make a stout wrapping for it. it can work even on the outer joints on the front which articulate alot, the inners are easy since they don't move nearly as much. get creative with rubber, zip ties, hose clamps, goop, whatever. if it doesn't work, do it again with something beefier, it'll work.

[GeneralDisorder]

I would like to see someone make leather boots that you can sew together

 

This would probably work quite well for a time actually. That would have been the choice 100 years ago.

 

A section of inner-tube, properly wrapped and adhered together then clamped in place..... might work just as well as the "split boots" anyway.

 

GD

[hardtail_pride]

Yes! GD liked my innertube idea enough to mention it in another posing!

[GeneralDisorder]

Yes! GD liked my innertube idea enough to mention it in another posing!

 

Or maybe it's because my grandfather used to save the dang things and I have several sections around my garage. Never used them for a boot but it would probably be my first choice for a split boot since there's no way in hell I would actually pay for one.

 

I still think leather would be cooler. :cool:

 

GD

[98obster]

I think if you're gonna go to the trouble of replacing the boot from a kit then it's worth the effort to replace as much of the old grease as possible. under the car is possible but a pita imho. otherwise just repack with grease and seal with duct tape-will probably last longer that the split boot;

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106059&highlight=cv+duct

 

mmm, yeah, i would love to see the Brooks leather boots.

[Yo'J]

Dood Leather!!!! Everything is better in leather!

PULL IT! ITTAINT HARD! Be the man!

 

While your at the lumber yard just grab the stretchy plastic (and lube) and have(/make) a ball! Just go the right direction so you it doesn't unwind while you drive! "where did it go?":grin:

[Yo'J]

My brand new MWE axles click so bad on a 2/3rds turn that it scares me but the rest of the time they run fine! I find myself turning funny so I don't hear the click. I thought it was the junkyard axle on the other side but no.....brand new(rebuilt). Too late now.. 2yrs. (replace the boot, its so easy you will impress your significant other and still have time to shower before church!)

[androider]

I would like to see someone make leather boots that you can sew together

 

This would probably work quite well for a time actually. That would have been the choice 100 years ago.

 

A section of inner-tube, properly wrapped and adhered together then clamped in place..... might work just as well as the "split boots" anyway.

 

GD

 

You jogged my memory. I think I recall seeing a canvas or oilcloth cv boot at some point in my life... perhaps on one of my father's many old volkswagons I grew up with. Not quite as stylin' as leather though. What would you reccomend: swede (spell check) or patened? Seriously though, leather or innertube are good ideas. When I recently replaced the rear axle, it was frozen to the stub shaft that passes thru the suspension arm. The inboard side came away fine after removing the spring pin, but getting the outboard side apart was... very difficult. Had to break open the cv joint and pound out the stub shaft while putting the torch to it. I pounded out the spring pin on the inboard front axle today to see if it was frozen as well (they're supposed to slide apart easily, according to Haynes), and just my luck: stuck. There's a word that rhymes here and I may have uttered it at the time. Put the Kroil to it and hopefully tomorrow it will yield. I'm gonna go for the regular replacement boot if I can get the thing apart. If not, I may have to MacGuyver it... Thanks for all the suggestions:)

Edited December 5, 2009 by androider

[GeneralDisorder]

Yes - I think old VW's did use canvas back in the day. A thick canvas properly sewn together would likely last quite a long time.

 

I know on the old military trucks I've worked on the boots have zippers! You put the boot on, zip it up, and cover the zipper with silicone. Really old (WWII) stuff was canvas or oil-cloth and also had the zippers or were tied on (yikes!).

 

The days before neoprene!

 

You can alway leave the inner joint on the transaxle and just dissasemle the joint, pull it out of the cup, and reboot as normal. Just requires a bit more clearance - probably have to disconnect the sway bar link and the tie rod to get it done. But doable.

 

GD

Edited December 5, 2009 by GeneralDisorder

[idosubaru]

the reason i say wrap it is because a split boot require cutting the old boot off - rendering zero protecting for the joint/grease once the split boots fails.

 

a tear is at least just a tear but has *some* buffer from the old boot being in place. installing a split boot requires removing that minimal buffer.

 

a split boot is good for passing inspection, that's about it. i'd install one on a rear axle just to pass inspection if they made them - DANG IT, they don't make one for the most useful axle!?!?

 

i actually replace the boots, that's the way to go. but i can totally understand not wanting/being able to do that or paying someone to do it on an old car.

Edited December 5, 2009 by grossgary

[Breeke]

Dude I replaced my boot this morning, didn't take that long. Pull the axle, and pull the retaining ring on the DOJ, slid the cup off...Grab a punch hit the cage remove six bearings one at a time. Remove C-clip from end of axle at splines. Tap off star looking thingie. Slide off old boot. Slide on new boot and clamp (or use zip ties) slide on star thingie replace C-clip. Reinstall cage (like how is was not backward) tap bearings in from windows in cage. Slide on Cup (add greese supplied), Put Retaining ring back in. Slide on boot and secure. reinstall axle.

 

Done!