Time for a new o2 sensor?

[1-3-2-4]

Stupid me for not getting the code stored on the reader..

 

I just know when I start my car up idle for about a min and drive off I get a loss of power right around when I shift into 2nd gear.. At first I thought I was just too fast getting on the power again with the clutch but this time it happened driving out.

 

I know the code said Bank 1 Sensor 1

 

I do have aftermarket UEL headers on the car but I've had them on since mid summer without any issues or CEL.

 

I don't think a o2 sensor can last up to my car's current 214K miles?

 

*EDIT*

 

code I got was P0130

Edited December 8, 2009 by 1-3-2-4

[Fairtax4me]

My car does that. I don't have any codes though. I just figured it didn't like driving cold. Only does it the first or second time into second then it's gone until the next morning.

[AlpineRaven]

what is your mileage like? if you're getting less kms = tank of fuel then it might indicate bad O2 sesnor or something else.

Cheers

AP

[1-3-2-4]

Well it just now happened so it really has not effected my tank yet..

 

cleared the code last night drove to work this morning CEL was off..

 

but came back on when I drove to the bank.

 

My car has 214,100 miles on it.

[Fairtax4me]

My car has 177k on it and just got 33mpg on a 435 mile trip over thanksgiving weekend. Lots of stop and go and still only used 13 gallons.

[Petersubaru]

I know in my case that by increasing the octane from 87 too 89 did away with any unusual symptoms...thus showing me that the front O2 sensor needed replacement...they do slowly wear out sooner or later..in my case 64Kmi..at times this item should be included in a tune-up...

[1-3-2-4]

code came back during a drive to the bank

 

P0130

 

o2 Sensor circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 1)

 

the voltages was all over the place but a screen grab which I think is the first o2 sensor is:

 

At 2K RPM

 

o2S11

 

1.030 V

 

o2S12

 

V 0.055

 

 

Idle

 

O2S11

 

0.910V -7.0 %

 

o2s12

 

0.030

 

0.0%

[Fairtax4me]

Voltage seems a little high. But I don't think that would throw the code.

 

Service manual says to check exhaust gases first. Dunno about you but most people don't have the access to an analyzer to do that. So we can skip that step and move on to the next which is check the connector for poor connection.

If that turns up clean you check the sensor with a scanner that will read the maximum and minimum voltages from the sensor. And if they are less than .1V difference then you replace the sensor.

The last check is to check the harness. Ignition switch ON, Pin 3 should read about .2V with the voltmeter grounded to the engine. Pin 3 is the bottom pin on the connector. If it is less than .2V the harness corrosion in the wires or a poor connection somewhere between the sensor and ECU.

[1-3-2-4]

Hmm I wonder of the sensor was telling on it's self after I seemed to change my headers..

 

if you start the car while it's still warm like running into a food store or whatever my idle goes 1000-500-750

 

but never does it when it's cold..

 

So I might buy a sensor local or order online this weekend.

[Fairtax4me]

Is the idle speed constantly going up and down? That could be an indication of a vacuum leak.

[1-3-2-4]

Is the idle speed constantly going up and down? That could be an indication of a vacuum leak.

 

lets see if this works im on my phone... and NO its not constanly going up and down only after it firsts starts and 5 seconds later its stable and only when its warm!

[robm]

When cold, it runs open loop, and just idles at a fixed speed, mixture, and ignition setting. When warm, and first starting up again, it is trying to run closed loop, varying all of above, but it takes a bit to figure out what is going on and for everything to stabilize.

 

A new O2 sensor may help this last problem, or may not.

[1-3-2-4]

This is a video I uploaded awhile back..

 

 

Anways i will replace the o2 sensor since that's what the code is.. it's running rich almost all the time..

 

I will report back.

[Qman]

Sounds like the O2. I just replaced mine. No power until half throttle or better. Very crappy gas mileage. All better now though.

[Kyle S]

Thank u guys I am having multiple problems with my scooby right now and this info was very helpful.

[1-3-2-4]

Here is another thing those that got the o2 sensor error did your CEL go off after a few start cycles but later came back on within a few miles of driving?

 

I don't think I've seen it drop lower then .800 V yet.. most of the time it's around 1.xxx volts which is pig rich.

[1-3-2-4]

odd.. I have not changed out the sensor yet but the CEL has not come on in at least 3 days.. mileage seems to be a bit better.

[robm]

Has the weather changed? No longer wet or snowy? These things have to be hot to work. I am not sure what they will do if they are not at a high enough temperature, look rich or lean or ?

 

Oh, a quick Google found the answer. Cold sensors look lean, so weather is not an issue.

Edited December 17, 2009 by robm
Found out the answer

[1-3-2-4]

I never snowed or rained when i first had the issue.. maybe the sensor is going in and out

[Log1call]

If you have a miss-fire, leaky injector, faulty temp sensor, faulty air-flow sensor, faulty throttle position sensor, lots of things... they can set an O2 trouble code.

Just because the O2 sensor is reading a rich mixture it doesn't mean the O2 sensor is faulty... Hell, that's like assuming the fuel gauge is faulty because it says empty at the end of the week!

[1-3-2-4]

I want to start with checking for a leaky injector how do I do that? I think it says something about that in the haynes manual but I misplaced it.

 

I only ask to start with that first because I notice when cold in the morning or if the car has been sitting for 24+ hours and you start it up the car runs ragged like really rich.. and I know Subaru's do for a cold start.. but if you give it a little throttle while it's running like that it almost sounds like a misfire but no CEL comes on..

 

I might try again to get a better sound recording.. I mean I'm at 214,588 now and I don't know how long are injectors meant to last for?

[Log1call]

One test is to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if it holds pressure when the key is turned off. It doesn't prove it's a leaking injector if the pressure does drop but if the pressure holds then youy injectors are probably not leaking.

 

The injectors could still have a bad spray pattern or be sticky when cold though.

 

The only way to be really sure is to pull them pressurise them and look for leaks and good spray pattern.

[1-3-2-4]

One test is to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if it holds pressure when the key is turned off. It doesn't prove it's a leaking injector if the pressure does drop but if the pressure holds then youy injectors are probably not leaking.

 

The injectors could still have a bad spray pattern or be sticky when cold though.

 

The only way to be really sure is to pull them pressurise them and look for leaks and good spray pattern.

 

 

So wait.. use a fuel pressure gauge and then pull them and look at the spray pattern? How often should injectors be changed? I got this car at 198,062 and I'm at 214K now.

[1-3-2-4]

Question when I pressurize them that's just turning the key to on and not starting right?

 

however to check the spray pattern I need to start the car?