vagen Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 I am in need of rear axles is there any interchange for the turbo axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 rear axles are the same for Turbo and NA vehicles (EA82 based body styles) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 XT6 rear axles will work as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagen Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 (edited) fantastic I think I might be able to get some then the parts store says the turbo ones are special but armed with this I may be able to order axles. Are they the same part for both sides or is there a difference? Edited December 9, 2009 by vagen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 Same part for left and right. Same goes for the front axles. What parts store is it? What brand of axles do they carry? I prefer to look up the parts myself online, then just go in with part numbers. there have been too many trips back and forth to the parts stores because of the wrong parts being ordered. A1 cardone reman rear #607036 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagen Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 my left axle is making the clunk clunk clunk noise and has play in and out. How hard would it be to repack this thing and hope it holds? or am I going to have to buy a $75 axle from Napa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 my left axle is making the clunk clunk clunk noise and has play in and out. How hard would it be to repack this thing and hope it holds? or am I going to have to buy a $75 axle from Napa? if you mean that you can move the shaft inward toward the tranny, then back toward the wheel, that's normal. It needs that play to slide back and forth when the suspension goes up and down. Some have had luck packing it with grease, but it will not last. If all else fails, after you get your new rear axles in, remove one or both of the front axles and put it in 4 hi. it will make the car rear wheel drive which is fine untill you get your new front axles. It will make the car behave differently so be careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagen Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 (edited) its my left rear that is going and I have an RX AWD so I would have to lock the center diff to have FWD right? the real problem here is the car chose to break two days before an autocross GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR:banghead: the movment is not the normal sliding it is a short clunky movement but on top of that I can twist the shaft slightly so it may be done for I'll order the part and repack this one to make the race. I'll swap the shaft out when the replacement arrives Edited December 10, 2009 by vagen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 I see what you mean by movement. I have had only one AWD with a locking center diff, my $150 GL-10, and I don't remember having to lock the center diff to "engage" the rear wheels, it was mearly a way to lock the drivetrain to positively distribute power to both the front and rear. But I never took the front axles out either...others here have so they may chime in. The AWD would have three diffs, front, center, and rear, each distributing power where it is needed to balance it all out. I remember some nice power drifting with the center locked and the LSD out back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 We got 2 types of rear axles here. On the early models, both the inner & outer CVs were the "floating" type (like front inners) where you could slide the shaft in & out, but the later models got fixed outers & the inners stayed floating. But if you can twist the shaft within the CVs, then you've got a problem (most likely the cage or ball bearings have worn). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagen Posted December 10, 2009 Author Share Posted December 10, 2009 woohoo the pullapart just got in a loyale 4wd yesterday and I yanked the left rear axle this afternoon. tomorrow I will install it... Question is there an easier way to get an old axle off? I had to take the whole control arm off to get it off the diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 woohoo the pullapart just got in a loyale 4wd yesterday and I yanked the left rear axle this afternoon. tomorrow I will install it... Question is there an easier way to get an old axle off? I had to take the whole control arm off to get it off the diff. I've never done it, but I thought after you drive out the pins, it would slide enough to come off the diff?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 It helps to disconnect the bottom of the shock and if it has a swaybar, to remove that also. That way the control arm can drop more and give the axle more articulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagen Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 I will do that when I install the car I got the axle from didn't have a bar so taking the whole arm off was easy. I felt bad taking parts from that loyale since it was so clean but the 4eat probably died. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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