Is it possible to replace the timing belt without pulling the engine?

[Kwhistle]

It's getting close to replacement time. Now I don't have anywhere to do this, but will be staying with my family for a week, and been thinking of taking a few hours to replace the belt and not worry about it for another 100k miles.

 

That said, I don't have access to any of the equipment needed to pull an engine out and never took one apart myself before. So is this something that could be done in a home garage with a decent set of basic tools and a jack? Any special tools I may need? If I do decide to go ahead with this, should I only replace the belt, or the idlers and tension rollers as well, just in case?

 

So far I just skimmed though the factory repair manual, and kinda get the idea of what to expect, but not 100% sure about going through with it.

Edited December 15, 2009 by Kwhistle

[edrach]

Yes, it can be done without removing the engine. However, I'd consider replacing the water pump at the same time (do you really think it will last another 100k miles; labor to replace it is practically the same). Also, any idlers that don't sound perfect will need replacement. And, lastly, unless you can re-compress the belt tensioner yourself, you'll need a new one of those. Also, OEM only on the belt, water pump, and tensioner. Quality non-OEM idlers can be found.

 

Also you don't need a jack. But removing the radiator (and what comes with this) will make it much easier.

 

Lastly, is your car a '97 or later model? If so, it's an interference engine; if you do it wrong, it's an expensive fix. A non-interference engine will just require a "do-over" without any internal damage.

Edited December 15, 2009 by edrach

[Kwhistle]

Cool. It's a 98. I think it's an interference, but not 100% about it. How about replacing the valve cover gasket at the same time?

 

About recompressing the tensioner, I read somewhere that it could be done with a vise, just going very slowly. Would something like that work out?

 

How long would the whole thing take, given that I've never done it before, but I'm ok with handtools?

Edited December 15, 2009 by Kwhistle

[Scooby17]

yup. 97' on and ej22 were interference and all ej25 are interference. There is a good endwrench article on timing belt replacement. They recommend using a shop press to reccompress the tensioner.. although a vise seems reasonable.

 

Hard to say how long it would take. Say 4 or 5 hours first time and triple checking everything. But that's a guess. (Be sure to count teeth)

[forester2002s]

Be sure to count teeth

 

Yes. And taking photos with a digital camera costs nothing.

 

So mark the pulleys, and take loads of close-up photos of the t-belt, tensioner, pulleys and idlers BEFORE disassembling anything.

 

This is good insurance, and has saved my bacon more than once.

[Scooby17]

^^^^ what he said

 

 

also found this...

 

"Compressing the Tensioner

Slowly compress the cam belt tensioner in a

vise, using aluminum or brass jaws, until the hole

in the piston aligns with the hole in the tensioner

case. Install a tensioner plunger retaining pin. You

may use a small allen wrench as a retaining pin.

Install tensioner assembly to the crankcase, do not

tighten the mounting bolts.

Note: Do not remove plunger retaining pin until

cam belt is completely installed.

A revised cam belt tensioner design was introduced

on later 2.2 liter engines. The revised tensioner

requires a special service procedure to retract the

tension piston. Compressing the piston in a vise

will damage the tensioner piston and it will not

extend properly when it is reinstalled on the

engine. Refer to the appropriate section in the

Subaru service manual for tensioner handling

procedures."

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf

[Kwhistle]

Thanks a lot! That's plenty of useful info.

 

I'm looking at a factory repair manual that I got somewhere online, and it lists a slew of special tools. Are these really necessary or would regular tools suffice?

[GeneralDisorder]

There are no special tools needed and no one ever pulls the engine for a timing belt job. Just pull the radiator and fans.

 

GD

[torxxx]

LOL! Wow.. never thought I'd see that question asked in here..

 

NO you dont pull the engine. leave the radiator in no sense in losing coolant. Just take the fans off and therse more than enough room

[GeneralDisorder]

Typically I'm replaceing water pumps as well so with the radiator out it gives that much more room. Preventative maintenance - it's too cheap not to replace it IMO.

 

GD

[ferret]

Here's a guy in Montreal who made a few videos. Granted it's a Forester, but it's the same for all 4 cyl EJ engines. You may have a different fan arrangement, but the motor part is the same.

 

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/timing-belt-oil-pump-water-pump-video-65248/

[Kwhistle]

So it seems that crankshaft bolt is the big thing here. I have an AT, so putting the car into 5th gear isn't an option. I understand I could crank it for a second to break the bolt lose. But how would I torque it when I put the whole thing back together?

[idosubaru]

actually the good news for you is that AT's are easier, very straight forward. there's an access hole (hard to access but it's there) at the rear of the engine under the throttle body, usually covered with a small rectangular rubber plug. through that hole you can stick a socket extension or beefy screwdriver in one of the holes in the flexplate to lock the engine in place.

[edrach]

Cool. It's a 98. I think it's an interference, but not 100% about it. How about replacing the valve cover gasket at the same time?

 

About recompressing the tensioner, I read somewhere that it could be done with a vise, just going very slowly. Would something like that work out?

 

How long would the whole thing take, given that I've never done it before, but I'm ok with handtools?

I've re-compressed a number of tensioners with a large bench vise. It takes less than 10 minutes if you pause about 30 seconds between each tightening. Line up the holes for the "grenade pin" that will hold the tensioner together. I tighten about 1/8th turn each time; you'll get a feel for it if you go too fast. Also, make sure that the "grenade pin" that you use to hold the tensioner together comes out in the correct direction when mounted (look to see how you want to insert the pin BEFORE you remove the tensioner). I use a "L" hex wrench or heavy coat hanger wire for the grenade pin.

 

Edit: All my tensioners were for pre-97 EJ's; I don't know if this applies to the newer version.

Edited December 15, 2009 by edrach

[Kwhistle]

actually the good news for you is that AT's are easier, very straight forward. there's an access hole (hard to access but it's there) at the rear of the engine under the throttle body, usually covered with a small rectangular rubber plug. through that hole you can stick a socket extension or beefy screwdriver in one of the holes in the flexplate to lock the engine in place.

 

What the chance of damaging things this way? Also, is there anywhere I can find a picture of this? I'm pretty new to the whole thing, and don't yet orient that well... hell, I don't even know what throttle body is.

[johnceggleston]

What the chance of damaging things this way? Also, is there anywhere I can find a picture of this? I'm pretty new to the whole thing, and don't yet orient that well... hell, I don't even know what throttle body is.

 

great timing belt pictures, click here, thanks nipper

[Kwhistle]

Those pics are absolutely great... no more doubts about doing this!

 

Now, how do I find that access hole to hold the engine when I manipulate the crankshaft pulley?

[lewisd]

I came across this link today and thought it may be helpful as well. step by step pictures, and some video, of a 95 EJ22 sohc timing belt change.

 

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm

[nipper]

There are no special tools needed and no one ever pulls the engine for a timing belt job. Just pull the radiator and fans.

 

GD

 

 

Ive never heard of anyone pulling an engine for a subaru timing belt.

 

nipper

[MilesFox]

no it is not necessary. it is not much more work if you wanted to yank the radiator(if you are doing a coolant change anyway)

 

you can butt the breaker bar against the driver side(usa) to bump the starter to unorque the crank pulley. you can fit an impact tool o tighten if you pull the radiator, or hold the car in 3rd gear with the parking brake and use a breaker bar to tighten. mind your torque specs

 

you can use a small allen hex tool for a pin on the tensioner. i once had a hole break off, had to tie it off with wire and cut the wire after installation.

 

an experienced person can do the job within an hour.

[svxpert]

<<no it is not necessary. it is not much more work if you wanted to yank the radiator(if you are doing a coolant change anyway) >>

 

no need for all that either, just take the fans out. that way there is still some coolant left in the engine and you have less a risk of getting an air pocket as so many others have and cooked there engine.

[Kwhistle]

I plan on replacing the water pump as suggested, so would it matter whether I leave the radiator in? If it really doesn't matter, I'd rather leave it in, just to save time.

 

I guess, the only question I still have is how to find the access hole to hold the engine while tightening the crankshaft bolt.

[94Loyale]

It's very easy to locate. Find where the transmission bolts to the motor. On the top, will be a rubber plug. Stand on the passenger side, find the throttle body, and look down below it. It's right there.

 

As for the radiator. If you are doing the water pump, then pull the radiator out. Esp if this is your first time. The last thing you want is to have to buy a radiator because you accidently hit it with a tool, it happens. Your going to drain the coolant to do the water pump anyway, so you have nothing to lose. Leave the fans on the radiator and just unplug them. Pull your transmission lines off, and the two 12 mm bolts on the top that secure the rad, remove the upper radiator hose. For the bottom hose, make things easy on yourself, and just remove the two 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing. Replace your thermostat and rubber gasket too since you have it apart. They are cheap, and only use an OEM Subaru. When you pull the thermostat housing, have a big pan underneath to catch the coolant, it's messy. Pull one of the 10mm bolts out first, then slowly remove the second while the coolant drains. Then grab the thermostat with a pair of pliers and pull it down. This will make a mess, that's why you have the big pan.

 

 

Edit... Almost forgot, once it's all unhooked. Carefully lift it out the top And set it somewhere that it's not going to get kicked or walked into. They are not cheap!

Edited December 16, 2009 by 94Loyale

[lewisd]

see my post earlier here with the link to lovehorsepower. step by step pictures with radiator removal. only thing I would like to have seen is them remove the cam sprockets and replace seals. I ordered my 2.2l timing belt kit and pump from Import experts and thermostat, seals, and hoses from genuinesubaruparts today. I'll start disassembly this weekend. I think I'm doing this just in time, I heard a rasping noise from front of engine, not like a whining belt but like some old bearings maybe getting ready to go. I got a lot of mileage out of this thing.

[Gnuman]

OK, time for me to chime in: I pull the engine for an EJ25 timing belt change, because i also reseal the engine at the same time (new crank and cam seals, new valve cover gaskets, etc) and there is no room on the sides of the engine. If you are only changing the timing belt, you can do it in the car. Also you can recompress the newer tensioners, but usually do not need to: use a pry bar to push the tensioner up away from the belt so you can insert the "grenade pin" through the holes before you remove the tensioner. This makes for minimal movement of the tensioner in the first place. The rule for this is the same as recompressing them though: gentle even pressure until you get the desired effect. For a grenade pin, I use a 1.5mm or 2mm allen wrench. use the larger if it will fit.