Hydroman Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Had the bearing go on the Timing belt toothed sprocket (131K). Dosen't look like any valve damage. Want to replace both of the smooth idler pulleys but local parts store only lists one. The ones on the car look different from each other although the seem to be about the same fit when installed (same bolt and offset). Do I need to get the right idler or are they interchanable? Would do the ebay thing but don't have time and already have most other parts ordered. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Subaru use to have a single bearing and a Double bearing idler pulley. All of the aftermarket kits come with two idlers that are the same. I'm not sure if the dealers stock both parts, but you could check one of the online dealers. 1stsubaruparts.com or others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) I have a post on this same issue. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106464 I've tore down my engine because when that pulley went I was doing 70MPH and under a heavy load (driving up a steep pass). I needed to be sure my valves were not toast. I would get a timing belt kit and replace all the pulleys. Don't risk another pulley going out. I compared my old ones that didn't fail they were all stiff, didn't spin as easy as the new ones. The work is about the same. You can compress the tensioner in a vice (slowly) use an allen wrench to pin it then just replace the pulley on it to save money. ($50) Let me know how it goes. Edited December 15, 2009 by mr.radon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 get the ebay timing belt kits - they include all the pulleys at a reasonable price. not positive but i think you can even buy the complete $80 for the earlier 1996 EJ22 and use the two smooth idlers from that - they're the same part I believe. you'll want to confirm that here, someone will know. let us know what the aftermarket store costs were if you go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydroman Posted December 16, 2009 Author Share Posted December 16, 2009 Got desperate and picked the idlers up from the dealer since all my other parts were in and wanted to get it back together. Coming in at $79 each, it was a real stainer . Subaru Parts guy indicated the 2 idler pulleys are now the same. Next time I will Ebay... Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 I worked on a 99 forester with the SOHC 2.5 yesterday that the same idler had failed on. It had been driven that way for a while, so the cogged teeth of the ilder had cut into the oil pump pressure relief cap. It wasn't leaking and hadn't cut all the way into the aluminum sealing washer under the cap so I let it be. Clean all the metal shavings off of the cam and crank sensors, they are magnetic and attract the pieces, which then shorts out the magnetic sensor and it gives a bad signal back to the computer. The forester had been run long enough that the bearing races on the pully had worn the races on the pully hub flat on one side. It was only 2 teeth off on the drivers side cam. I put everthing back together and it runs great. The DOHC may not be as forgiving. Do not compress the tensioner in a vice if the cylinder is part of the arm that holds the ilder pully. It will kill it. It will still put spring tension on the belt, but if you turn the crank backwards you will see that the tensioner can't hold tension, it will move right out of the way and the timing will skip. If the tensioner cylinder is separate and held on with 2 bolts, compress it slowly in the vice and it will be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwhistle Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Is it the same tensioner pulley for either one-piece or two-piece tensioner? If not, what kind does a 98 OB has? I'm trying to figure out which parts I'd need to order for later next week. autopartsgiant seems to have pretty good prices on these things, comes out cheaper than ebay kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 <<Do not compress the tensioner in a vice if the cylinder is part of the arm that holds the ilder pully. It will kill it. It will still put spring tension on the belt, but if you turn the crank backwards you will see that the tensioner can't hold tension, it will move right out of the way and the timing will skip. >> its recommended you use a vertical vice to press the rod back into the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 '98 is in that nebulous zone - could be either but probably the two-peice tensioner. You should check with the dealer. The ram-style (two-peice) tensioner is better and typically doesn't need to be replaced. Just the idler portion. As for the idler's - these things fail and this is EXACTLY why I can't stress enough that they should be replaced at every timing belt interval. Especially with belts lasting 105k now. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 its recommended you use a vertical vice to press the rod back into the cylinder. A hydraulic press with a pressure gauge. You can't put more than a specified amount of pressure on them. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 If you move the arm on the vice about 1/8 of a turn every few minutes while grinding valves you will not damage the part. Crank on the vice yes you will damage the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 If you move the arm on the vice about 1/8 of a turn every few minutes while grinding valves you will not damage the part. Crank on the vice yes you will damage the part. If you do the job right, and REPLACE the one piece tensioner(I've never found the pulley sold seperate for this type)........... they come pre-compressed with a pin in them already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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