Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Halfwit mechanics


TristanJ
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi, so I took my car to a local mechanic yesterday because I am having fuel overuse and popping at idle problems. Now I am a electrically and mechanically trained but unfortunately do not have an engine/ECU analyser so I thought after months of chasing this problem I might as well take it to someone who did. Now I can read a manual, unfortunately the f#*kwit mechanic cannot (even though I left it on the passenger seat for him) and he decided to ************ with the idle stop screw on the throttle body which in the throttle body section of my manual it states (more or less) this is adjusted at the factory, DO NOT ************ WITH IT. As you set the TPS 0.7 mm off this point, I now have no reference.

 

Does anyone know if there is a measurement from where the butterfly is fully closed to how far up you wind the stop, or whether there is a measurement from the inside of the throttle body to the flap (can you stick a feeler gauge down there?), or do I have to send it back to be flow tested, or just get another one?

 

I HATE Ultra Tune Fitzroy Australia.

 

Any comments appreciated, cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, so I took my car to a local mechanic yesterday because I am having fuel overuse and popping at idle problems. Now I am a electrically and mechanically trained but unfortunately do not have an engine/ECU analyser so I thought after months of chasing this problem I might as well take it to someone who did. Now I can read a manual, unfortunately the f#*kwit mechanic cannot (even though I left it on the passenger seat for him) and he decided to ************ with the idle stop screw on the throttle body which in the throttle body section of my manual it states (more or less) this is adjusted at the factory, DO NOT ************ WITH IT. As you set the TPS 0.7 mm off this point, I now have no reference.

 

Does anyone know if there is a measurement from where the butterfly is fully closed to how far up you wind the stop, or whether there is a measurement from the inside of the throttle body to the flap (can you stick a feeler gauge down there?), or do I have to send it back to be flow tested, or just get another one?

 

I HATE Ultra Tune Fitzroy Australia.

 

Any comments appreciated, cheers.

 

Well, first off info about the vehicle would be nice. Sounds like a possible O2 sensor or jumped time from all the info you have given so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While the screw should not be messed with ussually, there really isn't too much harm. The screw just sets the throttle opening to match each intake to it's engine. I've had to readjust them after swapping longblocks, but keeping the original intake. It isn't too hard. Granted this isn't flow tested or feeler gauges.....but it works fine. You may need to replace plugs and wires first to make it idle steadily. Once that's done:

 

 

 

Adjust the TPS so the idle switch is closed.

 

Warm up engine and allow it to idle down fully.

 

Adjust the screw until engine idles at 700-800 RPM

 

Now readjust TPS so that idle switch opens just as throttle opens slightly (.32mm, IIRC)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

 

I am officially a duch-bag and forgot to say it's a 92 liberty/legacy with the 2,2lt EJ22, sorry.

 

Thanks for your replies, Gloyale, won't the air bypass valve compensate for any changes in the throttle body opening at idle? I thought the computer would bring to the idle to spec through this means?

 

Plugs, leads, exhaust sensor have been replaced. The mechanic claimed he found a leak in the throttle body to inlet manifold gasket and replaced it with a thinner home made gasket which meant he couldn't get full rotation of the TPS (the manifold is modified because the engine is in a Kombi). He just wanted to replace the TPS because he couldn't get the voltages right at the ECU and thought it was faulty. When I asked him whether he had checked the resistive range with it off the car he said he hadn't, and told me I was a smart-rump roast (not really, but I do have a grasp of basic fault finding technique before buying a $350 dollar part).

 

So I took the car home and made a thicker gasket that allowed full rotation of the TPS which is fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...