1996 Legacy 4eat CV Axles - Fixed!

[wtdash]

Edit:

 

1996 Legacy Brighton 4EAT/EJ22, 180K:

Initially thought the tranny was bad, but now...maybe a CV axle broke?

 

Here's the step-son's description:

When driving the car around town the past week, there hadn't been any problems, but when I went to accelerate above 35mph this afternoon the car made a terrible grinding noise and stopped responding. When I started to accelerate, it seemed as if when the car when to change from 3rd to 4th gear, the car didn't make the transition. So as I tried to accelerate and the car started grinding, the car stopped accelerating even though my foot was down on the gas, but the speedometer went all the way up to 100mph and the RPM gauge when all the way up to 7000rpm. I had to pull over, and as I put the car in park, there was another grinding sound, and then the car started to roll backwards down the slight incline. Even though the car was in park, it was still rolling and I had to put on the parking brake. As I turned the car around to drive back to my apartment, the steering wheel was shaking violently in my hands, the whole car was shuttering, and the grinding sound continued when I stopped at red lights.

 

 

If it is the tranny, per Johnceggleston, HERE, the '95-98 2.2 legacys all used the same tranny, but according to 'car-part.com' and my local wrecking yard I need to match the code. There were 3 Automatic choices that year:

- TZ102ZAAAA

- TZ102Z2ABA (this one is likely a 4.44 diff ratio and won't work)

- TZ102ZABAA

 

I know from the '90-94 years that any of 'em will work if I match it to the rear diff....including the turbos. The '95-98 4eat's behind the EJ22 should be 4.11; the EJ25 are 4.44.

 

Should I also get the TCU for the year that matches the tranny, if different from my '96?

 

Anybody have any feedback? I'm hauling the car home tomorrow and if I have time would like to get the replacement tomorrow, too, to work on over the holiday (yeah - lots o' fun!). Found a few low milers for ~$550.

 

Thanks,

TD

Edited December 25, 2009 by wtdash

[monstaru]

hey would you stop buying cars for a week or so , so that i can find a shell that needs work for cheap?

 

good luck on the search,like i said, when i can't pull it from the yard i go to Noah.

 

 

and an easy way to get the crossovers, or at least gearing ratios for specific years is to go to spauldings and ask them if they have what you need.....they can print you out a list of all transmissions and what years they came from for you.

cheers, brian

Edited December 23, 2009 by monstaru

[wtdash]

and an easy way to get the crossovers, or at least gearing ratios for specific years is to go to spauldings and ask them if they have what you need.....they can print you out a list of all transmissions and what years they came from for you.

cheers, brian

 

Yeah, Spaldings told me there were 3 different options for the '96 model year....they said I needed to match the code, but I doubt it.

 

Thanks

[johnceggleston]

Edit:

 

1996 Legacy Brighton 4EAT/EJ22, 180K:

Initially thought the tranny was bad, but now...maybe a CV axle broke?

 

- TZ102ZAAAA

- TZ102ZABAA

 

TD

 

those two will work, but i doubt it is the trans. it sounds like an axle.

 

if it is the trans i wouldn't bother with the TCU, it won't matter.

 

if you find a cheap one from an outback get the matching rear diff. all of the actual trans are the same. the diffs vary and the speedo gears match the stock tires but the trans and the rear extension housing / transfer clutch are the same.

 

thinking about it more, it may be the front diff. the "park lock" is attached to the rump roast end of the pinion shaft. if it is not holding it is either 2 busted axles or something to do with the diff or pinion shaft. i think.

 

good luck.

 

on the one hand the boy gets credit for getting it home, on the other hand, if the car is screaming i would prefer that they just quit driving it. it can't get any worse just sitting.

[monstaru]

yeah

, i almost always just use them for referencing parts.but i always get the printout from them.

i was looking for 4.44 diffs last year and they ended up giving me a list with all trans , gear ratios, and such from like 1998 up.........it was great reference material.(i don't know why i throw ************ away!)

but i guess thats a crapshoot now too.:lol:good luck, brian

[Gloyale]

Busted front axle+ open diff= no drive to front wheels and no engagement of parking brake(it locks the front diff pinion shaft, but if the spiders can turn.......)

 

So all your drive is coming from the rear end.........sporadiocally as the TCU see the "slip" at the front axle.

 

Then at speeds over 35 the TCU trys to reduce transfer to the rear......that is probaly the high reviing and 100mph speedo reading.

 

Figure out which axle by simply looking at them while someone puts the car in gear......one of them'll spin while the car sits still.

[wtdash]

Busted front axle+ open diff= no drive to front wheels and no engagement of parking brake(it locks the front diff pinion shaft, but if the spiders can turn.......)

 

So all your drive is coming from the rear end.........sporadiocally as the TCU see the "slip" at the front axle.

 

Then at speeds over 35 the TCU trys to reduce transfer to the rear......that is probaly the high reviing and 100mph speedo reading.

 

Figure out which axle by simply looking at them while someone puts the car in gear......one of them'll spin while the car sits still.

 

You Nailed it! Just sitting and spinning. Replaced the axle and all is well!

 

Thanks to All and Happy Holidays!

 

TD

Broken CV:

Edited December 26, 2009 by wtdash