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No it will almost certainly not be the temp.

 

When you turn the key on can you hear the fuel pump running in the back of the car? It should come on for about two seconds when you turn the key on. Can you remember hearing that noise before and if you do remember the noise, does it sound normal?

 

If you did run the car out of fuel they sometimes need quite a bit putting back in to get the fuel pump submerged so it will prime. You could try putting more fuel in there, then turn the key on and off about twenty times without trying to start the car. That will make the pump run for the two seconds I mentioned and fill the fuel filter and lines again. Then try starting it.

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No it will almost certainly not be the temp.

 

 

Why do you say this?

 

I have seen a least 3 different First gen legacies not starting because of faulty CTS readings. (resistance so low that the ECU thinks the car is at 280+ degrees.........injects almost no fuel)

 

ANYTIME i have a no start, first thing to try is simply unplug the CTS. Unplugged, the ECU will default to rich starting program. It is worth checking.

Edited by Gloyale
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I said it because in the cranking situation there are only a couple of sensors being used and the temp sensor isn't one of them.

 

If it fired a bit, tried to go, then flooded, I'd have said something different though.

 

Also, his suspicion was that he had run out of fuel so I was going with what the customer says... they are often right.

 

 

Feel free to make your own suggestion though.

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Yes that is a good simple test for lack of spark and lack of fuel.

 

Next step is to extract trouble codes, check for spark, fuel and compression. As has been suggested(well I think it was suggested), you could try pulling the temp sensr off and see if it makes a difference.

 

Just what you do first depends on hw familiar you are with cars, subarus and troubleshooting really. You should check all the fuses. try the ether. If it kicks a bit it will show it has spark. If nothing happens at all I'd pull the plugs and check whether they are wet(or not), put them back on their leads/coils and check for spark anyway.

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ok so i was looking around and found some wires that were chewed through, it was from a wiring harness right under the big black intake hose and the wire runs down to the drivers side of the engine to the timing belt case what is this part? and how can i buy a new connector for it?

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Yup that could very likely be your problem. As has been said, you could solder in new wires but they need to be coaxial wires and up to the automotive conditions, so flexinle wires, fairly thick, heat and oil proof insulation. It's probably easier to go to the wreckers and get a new/secondhand cam sensor.

When you run the new wires or fit the sensor make sure it runs just where the other wire goes. The coaxial wire is to provide a shield from interference from ignition and alternator wires. Even with coaxial wires they can pick up interferance and cause problems so follow the old route carefully.

 

Also, if they wire has actualy been "chewed" get some rat poison and stick around your car storage area... Rats can cause major damage to cars, hell, if they eat enough wires they will turn your car into a writeoff!

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  • 10 months later...
Why do you say this?

 

I have seen a least 3 different First gen legacies not starting because of faulty CTS readings. (resistance so low that the ECU thinks the car is at 280+ degrees.........injects almost no fuel)

 

ANYTIME i have a no start, first thing to try is simply unplug the CTS. Unplugged, the ECU will default to rich starting program. It is worth checking.

What us the CTS and how do you un-plug it? this sounds worthy of trying. :banana:

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