Pgh_Scoob Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I have a 97 impreza that almost certainly needs a new clutch. I have been looking around for decent priced clutches but am still very weary as to what one to get. I have read on some threads awhile ago for good replacement clutches but was unable to find what thread that was. I have had a lot of luck with good replies to any question's I have had in the past and hope that you guys can help me out with this one. I appreciate any info you could throw my way. I am not looking for any performance clutch really I just need a good factory replacement. Thanks, Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 (edited) Did you try Subaru? The online vendors offer substantial discounts to your local guys. Though the locals will often match those prices (mine does). Don't forget to replace the throw out bearing, pilot bearing and throw out bearing clips while you're at it. A good clutch kit will come with all of those, but if it doesn't be sure to source and replace them all. Now is a good time to reseal your separator plate while the trans it out too - search for info on those. As for the actual clutch I don't have any experience worth mentioning. Have your flywheel turned at a machine shop. Won't be any significant difference between that and a new one. They know what they're doing and will check it first to make sure it's in limits and all - but I would wager a good chunk of change it will be. There are quite a few suppliers of clutch kits but only a few manufacturers, so companies are packaging the same parts under different names. They might even have a mixed bag - some are getting OEM supplier parts, some are not and not and some are a mix of both. Probably hard to be quantitative about it. I would assumed that the cheapest ebay kits are not the highest quality. I know that doesn't help much but I haven't seen much good clutch kit info either. Although I've never really heard substantial comments either way - including no bad reviews on any kits. I've only actually used after market kits (though I can't recall which ones because it's been at least 2 years since I've done a clutch) and no problems yet. But that doesn't really mean much because people buying the cheapest stuff typically aren't keeping their cars as long as those buying Subaru parts (like folks owning newer cars, etc). So it's hard to say. Edited January 2, 2010 by Qman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 I get them off Ebay - atleast that's where I find to buy them. I haven't needed any in a year or so. I typically buy Rhino-Pak kits locally and they typically have Valeo clutch disc, etc. for 250. Cheaper than Advance and Auto Zone locally. I can get the cheapest Valeo kit for lets say 150, or for 200 get a Valeo kit with all USA and Japan parts - and that's the kit I get. Shipping included. These prices are roughly what I remember, and probably have changed. But Valeo is a well known OEM and aftermarket supplier, I don't worry about high performance If I have the time to wait I order the clutch kit at the same time I order the timing belt/idlers from the importexperts. I also drop the flywheel to be checked and cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hey thanks, I will be dong an entire clutch kit. Also I am contemplating getting a new flywheel as well. I might just wait until I get to the clutch to see whether the flywheel is bad or not. I have never heard of the valeo kit. I have been checking on ebay for kits but the best I could find I think was the exedy clutch kit. I have found on line some stores the have the sachs and aisin? clutch kits but I dont know much about either. Also are the clutch kits very specific to model year? Or are the transmissions used for the 1.8 and 2.2 the same? Thanks Again, Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted January 2, 2010 Share Posted January 2, 2010 Exedy clutches are good and average priced. They have a stock clutch kit as well as performance based staged kits. As stated earlier cheapest isn't always best. Turn the fylwheel, replace the throw out and center pilot bearings. Keep everything oil free and clean the anti-corrosion coating off of the pressure plate before you install everything. They are specific to each vehicle. 1.8, 2.2 and 2.5 all share the same bolt pattern. The ratio's are different but they are interchangable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 2, 2010 Author Share Posted January 2, 2010 Hey great thanks for all the replies. I am going to start looking for one tomorrow and hopefully get it by wednesday. I really dont go for cheapest, it really comes to best reasonable price but with that there are quite a few choices for reasonable prices. Thats what caused me to start asking for other input. Which has been very helpful. I will update with what I end up getting. Thanks Again, Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 I replaced my built to last autozone clutch with an excedy clutch kit from rallysportdirect.com. It was like $200. They don't have 2.2 obs as a model but the 2.5 impreza one worked wonderfully. I don't know how they are for shipping though since I live near them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 3, 2010 Share Posted January 3, 2010 Exedy/Daikin (same company) clutches are OE parts for Subaru. Valeo supplies Subaru OE clutches as well. Sachs clutch kits I've always had good luck with. They make OE parts for many European cars (Saab, Volvo, and BMW I know for a fact). I just ordered a Valeo kit on thE Bay for my 96 legacy for $109 shipped. I cheaped out on it for money reasons. (might bite me in the rump roast, I'll know in a few weeks) I was going to order a Sachs performance clutch, but this came up suddenly, and right after Christmas... I didn't have $260 to spare on the clutch kit by itself. You can get Exedy clutches the Bay for under 150 + shipping in most cases. A non-performance Sachs kit can be had from Rockauto for about $160 + shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 3, 2010 Author Share Posted January 3, 2010 I replaced my built to last autozone clutch with an excedy clutch kit from rallysportdirect.com. It was like $200. They don't have 2.2 obs as a model but the 2.5 impreza one worked wonderfully. I don't know how they are for shipping though since I live near them. What year is the car you put it on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 1998 impreza OBS was the car I used the excedy clutch kit on. Worked really well thus far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 4, 2010 Author Share Posted January 4, 2010 Well thanks for all of your help. I actually ordered an exedy clutch kit from ebay for 150. Seems to be a good price, I hope(gulp) I'll let you know how it turns out. Also has anyone replaced their clutch with only removing the radiator and disconnecting the tranny then just pushing the engine forward a bit. Oh and disconnecting the headers. Thanks, Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 I'm sure you can do it, but it's probably easier to remove the transmission if you're worried about difficulty. The problem with trying to slide the engine forward enough to get the PP and disc out, is that you'd be 3/4 of the way towards getting the engine out by the time you had enough room to get your hands in the bell housing to work. If you pull the transmission out. Knock the roll pins out of the axles, slide them off the stubs and set aside. Unbolt the exhaust from the heads and one hanger on the trans, then just pop loose the rubber hangers on the rest of the system and it drops on the ground and can be slid out of the way. Unhook the O2 sensors before doing that. Find a strap and pull the top of the engine forward a bit, unbolt the dog bone mount. Unbolt the starter and just slide it out of the way. Detach hill holder and clutch cables from the release lever. Unplug the 3 connectors on the bell housing for the Reverse switch, neutral switch, and the wire harness for the rear O2 sensor. Remove the center exhaust heat shields. Drain the trans fluid. Unbolt the drive shaft carrier bearing and lower the drive shaft onto the ground. Put a bag over the stub to keep dirt off of it. Unbolt the shift linkage. Remove the bolts from the bell housing. I think it's 2 bolts up top and 2 nuts on the bottom. One of those bolts holds the starter so it should already be taken care of. Remove the transmission mount bracket bolts. The back of the trans will start to hang at this point. Now you get to be strong man. Put a board on your chest, crawl under the car and lift/work the trans towards the back of the car and slide it right down onto the board. It only weighs about 125lbs. Should be easy with two arms. It helps to have someone up top with a prybar or big screwdriver working around the bell housing to get it separated. Compare that to the engine where you have to disconnect the hoses, drain the coolant, undo countless vacuum hoses so they don't get broken, detach the hill holder cable, throttle cable, cruise cable, find a way to lift it (300lbs+) up off of the engine mounts so you can slide it forward. Then you still have to stabilize it while you try to put the new clutch in. You might even have to disconnect the power steering hoses for more room. Oh I didn't mention disconnect the battery before doing any of this. I like to remove it completely just for good measure. (ever put a wrench down in just the WRONG place? That light show was beautiful! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Oh wow that does seem way easier to do then dealing with all of the engine components. I'm going to have to check it out, my main difficulty with removing anything is I have a lot of rust on everything. And the fact that it is right around 20 degrees outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Only if you have a transmission jack or a lift. Otherwise, it is not easier. I have done it both ways on the floor. Never again will I pull a trans for a clutch. Sorry fair, just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Only if you have a transmission jack or a lift. Otherwise, it is not easier. I have done it both ways on the floor. Never again will I pull a trans for a clutch. Sorry fair, just my opinion. It's still a pita but in my experience it is usually less trouble. You can use a regular floor jack to lower the transmission if you're not comfortable with trying to pick it up. I usually try to get the car I'm working on up at least 18-20" off the ground (big jack stands) on all four corners. Of course it always helps to have a helper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 I wish I had a bigger jack and stands. I'm not sure whether I will be doing the job or not I might be able to get my car into my school and get it done there. Unfortunately I'm not in the shop as of now, so will have to let other people do it. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Ok so I finally got my car back today with the new exedy clutch. The clutch feels great nice ad tight. I'm still taking it easy and giving it a decent break in period. My main concern is that now my car has a really bad rumble. It seems to be worse at lower speeds. I was on the highway for a couple of miles coming home from school and it was noticeable at points but then would almost go away. Could that be caused by the new clutch and needing to break in? One other thing, I ran out to the store parked my car and came back out no more than 5 mins later and my car would not start. Turn the key all interior accessories would come on but nothing from the starter. After a couple of tries it started right up. I going to try and get it looked at tomorrow by one of my instructors. But any ideas would be a great help. Thanks, Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) The rumble could be the axles not installed correctly, or the drive shaft carrier bearing. Did you notice if it happens more on acceleration than at cruising speed? I would also check all of the lug nuts as well. Starter contacts might be bad causing the no start. (Pretty cheap fix for this, you can search the board to find out how) Check the nut on the cable and be sure it is tight. Also check the red wire that connects to the solenoid right next to the cable and make sure it is pushed on all the way. Can't hurt to double check the battery terminals and clean them for good measure. Edited January 19, 2010 by Fairtax4me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Yea. I'd bet the axles weren't re-installed quite correctly. Perhaps they killed the battery, or connections aren't tight when they reconnected it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pgh_Scoob Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Yeah that is what I'm suspecting for the no start. I am probably gonna got out and tinker around in a little bit. As for the rumble I was thinking that it was being put back together wrong. I was not around as they were putting everything back together so I didnt get a chance to check out everything. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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