EJ22 Timing Belt Q.

[markjw]

1991 Legacy Wagon AWD.

(I just got it today)

 

 

I have searched the archives and,I understand the timing belt replacement proceedure,for the most part.

 

One thing I'm not clear on,thou...If I pull the timing belt off,replace the water pump,and re-install the belt,all without ever turning the crank or cams,can I just put the belt back on without going thru the crank/cam sprocket alignment proceedure?

 

I can certainly do the timing proceedure,but is it necessary? What do you guys do?

Edited January 3, 2010 by markjw

[Fairtax4me]

Yes you can. But just for good measure, set the engine at TDC on number one, or turn the crankshaft until the dot mark on the sprocket lines up where it's supposed to be. Then make your OWN marks on the cam sprockets and timing covers, and a mark on the crank sprocket with whiteout or paint or something that won't rub off easily. Doesn't really matter where, just as long as your marks are clear. That way you know exactly where the sprockets are supposed to be just in case they get moved by accident.

[GeneralDisorder]

Line up the marks, paint-pen mark the belt at each mark and the just reinstall it with the marks you have made. I've done that a couple times.

 

GD

[markjw]

Alright...Those are good ideas. Thanks.

[MilesFox]

just line up all the marks before removing the belt

[markjw]

I got it all back together. And,it runs...I think I was trying to make the timing belt install more complicate than it is. I almost fell for the stamped arrow on the crank sprocket being the crank timing mark,instead of the correct timing mark on the plate behind the crank sprocket. I know,I gotta get a book.

 

So,I replaced the water pump with a new one,new timing belt,too. I burped the heck out of it seven diffrent ways,and it's overheating. Not too much,but enough to where it needs to be delt with sooner than later.

 

I bought this ride from a college student at Evergreen here in Olympia. The water pump failed on her on the way to school and she continued to drive the thing. She said she lives about 5 minutes form the school,so,whatever happened,it happend in that amount of time.I bought it right out of the school parking lot over the weekend.

 

In the last two days,I have put a hundred miles on it,just trying to make it overheat,and it does. Bubbles in the reservoir tank,sporadic temp readings,full reservoir tank,defrost air going cold,pretty much every classic symptom of bad head gasket.

 

I called the Subaru dealer and was quoted $45 apiece for the headgaskets and $10 for the intake gaskets.$20 for the thermostate.

 

I called the machine shop I usually use,and they want $90 to pressure test and flatten the heads. So.if all goes well,I'll still be into this wagon for well under a grand.

 

I gotta tell ya.GD is right on the money. This car is 10 times the car a ea82 is.

I love this thing. By the time I'm done,it'll run as good as new.

 

Edited January 4, 2010 by markjw

[Fairtax4me]

Did you try a new radiator cap?

That is a beautiful car btw.

[markjw]

I did. But,I bought a really cheap POS at Schucks. The subi dealer is 30 miles from me.I guess I shoulda went that way on my test drives.

 

Should I buy a oem one? I will eventually,but is it probable the Schucks one is that much of a piece of junk?

 

I haven't done a compression test,either. I can,but just haven't.

 

Thanks,btw.

[markjw]

Also,from what I've read on the board here,seeing bubbles in the expansion tank is a dead giveaway for a leaky hg. Is that not true?

[Fairtax4me]

If it's made by Stant then it should be fine. At least try going to Napa or somewhere like that to get a decent one. Also make sure the rim on the radiator where the cap seals is clean and smooth.

 

Bubbles can be caused by boiling coolant (expansion of water vapor). Coolant will boil at a lower temp if the pressure in the cooling system isn't where it needs to be.

 

If the cap fails to fix it, do a block test.

[markjw]

Ok..I got a different cap.Still a off brand one but,something changed in the symptoms. I drove it about 20 miles and, although it seems to be running a little hot,about half way on the dash guage,it didn't spike. And,No bubbles in the coolant tank. But,the defrost air is still getting cold at idle. Hotter than it should be at cruising speed.

 

So,now I'm stumped. idk..I think I should do the hydrocarbon test or atleast bust out the compression tester. I really do not think a comp test is going to reveal much.Maybe it will.

 

The lower radiator hose has a tendency to go cold. I only notice it at idle,thou. You know,when I can reach under the car and feel for it. I can't get my son to climb onto the hood and feel for it while we're going down the road.

[Fairtax4me]

Bleed the air out of the cooling system a few times. Did you happen to replace the thermostat when you put the water pump back together? From what I've read these cars really don't like aftermarket thermostats.

 

If you do a leak down tester that would give you a more accurate picture if there is a HG leak. That would confirm a bad HG if the air escapes through the HG into the cooling system, it would work it's way out through the radiator. Look for bubbles.

Of course doing a block test will tell you the same thing.

[markjw]

The girl I got the car from had the thermostate replaced on Dec. 3.Last month. Along with oil/filter change and a few other maintainance items.She gave me all of the service records.

 

The bill from the shop she went to listed also possible water pump going bad. Thats what failed on her on her way to school,about three weeks later. She wouldn't say,but I think they quoted her several hundred dollars to replace the water pump,and she declined,electing only to change out the thremostat.

 

The thermostate looks new.So,I just re used it. Also,she paid someone to replace the radiator recently.I can tell you for absolute certainty,this radiater is several years old.

 

Here's where I'm at. When I got back from my last test drive,I drove it right up on the ramps and parked it. I let it sit for an hour,went back out and checked the fluid level.I easily put another quart maybe a little more into the radiator. The overflow tank was the same at the full mark.

 

I went back out for another twenty minute drive,and the temp guage stayed constant below the halfway mark. And,the heat from the heater never went cold. But,I'm still seeing a few bubbles in the expansion tank.

 

I'm going to the Subaru dealer tomorrow for a oem thermostate and oem rad. cap. I'll see where that gets me. I'll start all over again with the burp proceedure.

 

Thanks for your help,Fairtax.

[Sonicfrog]

I got it all back together. And,it runs...I think I was trying to make the timing belt install more complicate than it is. I almost fell for the stamped arrow on the crank sprocket being the crank timing mark,instead of the correct timing mark on the plate behind the crank sprocket. I know,I gotta get a book.

 

So,I replaced the water pump with a new one,new timing belt,too. I burped the heck out of it seven diffrent ways,and it's overheating. Not too much,but enough to where it needs to be delt with sooner than later.

 

I bought this ride from a college student at Evergreen here in Olympia. The water pump failed on her on the way to school and she continued to drive the thing. She said she lives about 5 minutes form the school,so,whatever happened,it happend in that amount of time.I bought it right out of the school parking lot over the weekend.

 

In the last two days,I have put a hundred miles on it,just trying to make it overheat,and it does. Bubbles in the reservoir tank,sporadic temp readings,full reservoir tank,defrost air going cold,pretty much every classic symptom of bad head gasket.

 

I called the Subaru dealer and was quoted $45 apiece for the headgaskets and $10 for the intake gaskets.$20 for the thermostate.

 

I called the machine shop I usually use,and they want $90 to pressure test and flatten the heads. So.if all goes well,I'll still be into this wagon for well under a grand.

 

I gotta tell ya.GD is right on the money. This car is 10 times the car a ea82 is.

I love this thing. By the time I'm done,it'll run as good as new.

 

 

WOW. That's a pretty one! IYDMMA, how much did you pay?

[markjw]

$400...The CL ad started off at $600.By the time I got around to making a offer,she Really wanted it out of the school parking lot. She didn't even flinch at $400.

 

Thats a heck of a thing trying to sell a broken car to a stranger from the place where it broke down. Doesn't really give the seller much negotiating leverage.

 

I don't think I took advantage of her. By the time I'm done with the HG's and all the running around associated with that,I'll be into it for about $800 plus my time/labor.

[93Newbaru]

Thats a heck of a thing trying to sell a broken car to a stranger from the place where it broke down. Doesn't really give the seller much negotiating leverage.

 

I don't think I took advantage of her.

 

 

Haha, I run into this with most of the vehicles I buy. Something is wrong to the point where I can't test drive it, and am going on the owners word of what works and what doesn't. Most of the time the the previous owner hasn't been through the car like most of us either, so you always find something more after the deal is done. You just have to get it for a good enough price that if something more is wrong you aren't screwed.

 

I recently picked up a 90 Leg wagon, classic example. Mentioned trans trouble, car wouldn't even start in the driveway when I arrived. Said they had it at a mechanic and they couldn't figure out the problem or whatever. Wanted $700, ended up with it for less than half. I hardly ever pass up anything that is worth more than scrap and this has many parts for my other Sub's. Towed it across town and started looking at it. First off I remember needing to hook battery up when the key is turned on, did that and it fired right up. Hardly moved in drive gears, checked fluid and subsequently emptied less than one quart of dirty fluid from the trans, basically had nothing in it. Some mechanic they had look at it? Filled with clean fluid but clutches are welded or something, every gear moves the car forward:rolleyes:

 

And one more. 97 Outback wag. Wanted $1000, said motor went "kapoooey" on the highway, blew oil and coolant and what not. I went to look at it figuring it was seized but the motor still turns over by hand:clap: Over 200K, says trans works and its pretty clean, got it for less than half of his price too. We'll see when I get it home.

 

That blue leg you just bought is like a million dollar car around here, beautiful!

Edited January 21, 2011 by 93Newbaru

[markjw]

Well, since you brought it up (this post is a year old), I sold this wagon only a few months after I got it. I ended up resealing the engine, new water pump and other stuff. It ran perfect. I guess I got bored with it.

 

The thing that haunts me is, the head lights were made of Glass and they had levelers on them. It was my first Legacy and I didn't know at the time how rare that is.

 

From what the buyer said to me, it was going to Ellensburg, Washington.

[93Newbaru]

Well, since you brought it up (this post is a year old),

 

 

Wow, I usually don't do that. Either I thought it was still 2010 and the post was only a week old, or I read it wrong.