esteveW Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 I'm parting out a '87 GL 5spd DR and the procedure in the manual addresses pulling the engine or tranny seperately. I would almost bet that they are installed on the assembly line as a unit. I do my parting out on my trailer so I can just haul off the carcus to the scrap yard with out handling problems. The deck of the trailer also gives me a nice working height and clear area to work on. The procedure for pulling the tranny involves dropping it which require the chassis to be raised high enough for removal. Higher than I normally would since I don't work on a creeper. It looks like there is plenty of room to pull the whole thing thru the engine compartment. Opinions and experiences welcomed. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 This has been asked before and a few of us have done it, like myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted January 13, 2010 Share Posted January 13, 2010 its easier to pull the motor, then pull the tranny through the engine bay. I do this on a regular basis. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esteveW Posted January 13, 2010 Author Share Posted January 13, 2010 Yes, that would work. Hadn't occured to me. I've never worked on a car with as much room around the engine, especially the tranny/bell housing. Starter is so easy to get to and the clutch adjustment, etc.. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Sawsall the core support out of the way,pull them together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I just yanked the engine and tranny as one piece out of mine. Came out pretty easy actually. Just have to make sure to angle the engine out first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 I've pulled at least 1/2 dozen engines/transmissions as a unit. Fact is have never pulled either separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dantes Inferno Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 If the engine and tranny havent been split before I would just pull the whole shabang. If theyve been split not to long ago i think its less labour intensive to pull seperatly. Since with two big dudes can easily pull the motor without a picker and 1 guy to sling the trans out simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 you can unbolt the front cross member from the frame rails and drop the whole thing Engine/tranny and slide it out from under the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esteveW Posted January 14, 2010 Author Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) True! And that may be the way that the combo was installed on the assembly line. However, I want to avoid having to raise the car that high, for clearance under the car, for removal. I use an overhead hoist (or cherry picker boom on my fork lift) on almost all the cars I Part-Out. I generally raise the car on stands or cinder blocks about 12-14" just enough for me to slide under for essential disconnects. The car stays at this height until all salvageable parts are removed and then I chain it down and head for the metal salvage yard (where they actually Pay Me for the metal weight. For a car this size, it is now about 75 to 100 bucks). Hell, the last Geo Metro I took in, no engine, drive train, seats, steering. Just the carcus and I got $75. Sorry, off topic! Basically I prefer to spend a minimum amount of time under the car and once I set it on car stands or blocks, not have to move it again. My trailer bed becomes my work bench and I can move it in and out of the shop as I want to work on it. I'm not a salvage yard (so I tell the county inspector). I just part out and rebuild specific makes/models of cars. I have switched my interest to the Subaru for now since I have a EJ22 engine and a cute 79 Brat. And the EA82 GL wagon was a steal, compared to paying a 100 here and there for tanny and parts I need for the EJ to Brat swap. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Steve Edited January 14, 2010 by esteveW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 14, 2010 Share Posted January 14, 2010 Every time I've parted cars out, I remove the exhaust and front suspension, then un-bolt the transmission xmember. Then I lower the car until the engine xmember is on the ground, then disconnect everything from above. Then you can remove the nuts that attach the crossmember to the framerails and lift the body up. You do have to get the body up quite high to clear the engine, but it doesn't weigh much at that point, so it's not too bad. a stack of tires on either side of the transmission make good sturdy supports. Like this: When I parted out a Toyota 4Runner last year, I pulled everything as an assembly. Cutting the upper radiator support out with a sawzall made things muuuuuch easier. I'm sure it would help on a subaru too, but I bet it would be possible without. We put an engine and transmission in a turbo legacy last winter as an assembly....and it worked pretty well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 If I was sending a car to scrap and wanted the engine and tranny out of it,the First thing I would do is remove the core support. Without even thinking about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 If I was sending a car to scrap and wanted the engine and tranny out of it,the First thing I would do is remove the core support. Without even thinking about it. did it this way on a junker Outback, cut out the upper and lower supports with a sawzall -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esteveW Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Good point on cutting the core support. When I part out Geo Metro's I cut the frame rails, just behind the crush crimps and up the inter fender wall which gives me a front clip. These come in handy if I find a nice car that has been hit in front. It's an easy repair, especially if you cut just forward of the strut towers. Done a couple that way. No bent frame problems to effect alignment. My personal, Daily Driver, is rebuilt that way and had zero problem with the front end alignment. (BTW. I never sell a car that has that extensive repair, due to liability. Just for myself or help someone else repair theirs.). I'd like to do a front clip replacement of a Subaru, but what I'm seeing around here, is nice body's but rusting fender wells. So Sad! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 (edited) Sooo... any practical advice on this that doesn't involve a sawzall? Using the come-a-long and rafter method. The cars are lifted so I think I should have plenty of room for removal and installation with just the radiator out... Edited March 9, 2010 by singletrack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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