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What part of the front suspension kills travel?


Uberoo
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I spent alot of time today under the front of my EA81 wheeler toy while I was putting in a 5 speed.I couldn't help but notice how short and stubby the lower control arms are.I also noticed that when I would jack the car up from the front that there wasn't alot of down travel in the suspension.So Im just wondering exactly what part of the front suspension is binding up?

 

Note: please don't treat this as one of my famous "what if posts".

 

 

Im just kinda looking the suspension travel like this: if the axles can take "X" travel,the struts have "X-y" travel,etc why not make everything travel at least as much as the axles can take.

 

I know that we are never going to get massive travel out of the subaru stuff,but if we can tweak it to get just a little bit more out of it,it will help.

 

as for whats binding up the suspension is it the strut,the axle,the radius rod,lower control arm, etc..

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I wonder what would happen if the lower control arm was mounted further inboard,IE directly under the center line of the inner joint?

 

with the two inch lift making it so I have no down travel is that an indicator that the axle is limiting travel?

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ive heard that if I take the strut,hub,axle,and tire rod ends of an EA82 and then extend the stock control arm 1 3/4" I can get more travel due to the the additional length.Does anyone know if that combo would work without having ridiculous camber?

 

Also if it will work can the front suspension work from a FWD EA82?

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I just rembered I had some old shocks for a early 90's ford exploder.so I took off one rear shock to compare the two.

 

Stock is 13" compressed and 17.5" extended

exploder is 15" compressed and 26 extended

 

think that might be a problem?haha

 

Right up until I try to test fit the exploder shock-the two mounting holes are just slightly narrower than stock and they use a smaller bolt.Easily fixable though.

 

also while we are at it.On an EA81 with the torsion bar holding everything up what is the point of a shock?I put the tire on so I could go back inside.But then I tested the suspension on both sides.with a shock in place the rear suspension was alot stiffer,with out a shock it wasn't too bad.Might not want to rally around corners though,but it allowed everything to flex well.

 

I suppose at higher speeds without shocks in the back to control sway it might be kinda dangerous..So on that note anyone know the part number for the rancho shock that will fit,or even a stock part that would work and be cheaper...

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Do the stock shocks actually go to full extension on the car?

 

the shock is there so the car doesn't bounce up and down. a torsion bar just acts as a spring.

 

You can also use the search function for the rancho shocks dude. it's been covered a lot.

 

Edit: found it with a quick search. RS5241

Edited by NinjaTech
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ive heard that if I take the strut,hub,axle,and tire rod ends of an EA82 and then extend the stock control arm 1 3/4" I can get more travel due to the the additional length.Does anyone know if that combo would work without having ridiculous camber?

 

Also if it will work can the front suspension work from a FWD EA82?

 

I put EA82 front suspension on my 4" lifted 81 wagon. I used the axles, knuckles/brakes, control arms and outer tie rods. I extended the EA81 inner tie rods 1" and extended radius rods 2". I'm still using the adjustable EA81 struts. This set up moves the tires forward 2" and out about 1 1/2" on each side, but the struts still limit travel. I've been wanting to try some different struts with more travel and move the top mounts forward so they're not leaning back so much. I've been very happy with this setup otherwise. Camber is not to bad. I'm pretty sure FWD suspension would work.

Jesse

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Here's the jist of the front suspension travel. It doesnt have much flex, even in stock form, due to the way it pivots. If you look at it, you see how the radius rod is attached with a pair of rubber bushings, but its not in-line with the lower control arm pivot point. This setup limits the travel because it binds up very easily. The stock struts arent exactly long travel, I dont have the specs but they arent the limiting factor in the stock setup. With the 2" suspension lift, you already have the control arm and radius rod almost maxed out in their range of flex to the point they cant flex anymore.

With stock EA81 front axles you do not want long travel anyways. I am amazed yours are till holding together, I blew mine with a 2" lift in 2 weeks, with no offroading. The axles on these are short and hyper extend easily, and of course the CV's only let you flex so far without exploding.

 

If you want more travel, the easiest way is use the EA82 stuff that Jessie has on his wagon, or change the way the radius rod mounts to the car, so that the pivot point for the radius rod is in-line with the lower control arm pivot point. This will allow the control arm to flex with no binding to the full extent of the strut's flex.

 

-Bill

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Here's the jist of the front suspension travel. It doesnt have much flex, even in stock form, due to the way it pivots. If you look at it, you see how the radius rod is attached with a pair of rubber bushings, but its not in-line with the lower control arm pivot point. This setup limits the travel because it binds up very easily. The stock struts arent exactly long travel, I dont have the specs but they arent the limiting factor in the stock setup. With the 2" suspension lift, you already have the control arm and radius rod almost maxed out in their range of flex to the point they cant flex anymore.

With stock EA81 front axles you do not want long travel anyways. I am amazed yours are till holding together, I blew mine with a 2" lift in 2 weeks, with no offroading. The axles on these are short and hyper extend easily, and of course the CV's only let you flex so far without exploding.

 

If you want more travel, the easiest way is use the EA82 stuff that Jessie has on his wagon, or change the way the radius rod mounts to the car, so that the pivot point for the radius rod is in-line with the lower control arm pivot point. This will allow the control arm to flex with no binding to the full extent of the strut's flex.

 

-Bill

 

 

what about doing both?put EA82 front suspension and move the radius rod?Then I suppose I could put Baja bug strut inserts to get more travel..

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Is it a good idea to push the axle forward?wont that make the angles too extreme?it would be nice to get a bit more approach angle. but moving the tire forward plus 2" lift seems like it would destroy even the EA82 axles..

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It really only affects the axles at full turn. Mine have held up pretty well. I don't know how much more stress the 2" lift will put on them. For me the tire clearance and better approach angle was worth the risk.

Jesse

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The steering geometry changes when you move the wheels forward, it creates negative caster, which improves the steering response in corners and curves going forward, but it makes it less than ideal for backing up. It's a fair trade off to me though, as most of the time I'm moving forward. There are a lot of things to consider when you start messing around with suspension, you always have to take into account the camber, caster, and toe, as well as suspension movement under any conditions.

 

-Bill

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The steering geometry changes when you move the wheels forward, it creates negative caster, which improves the steering response in corners and curves going forward, but it makes it less than ideal for backing up.

-Bill

 

 

 

moving the wheels forward is positive caster, this increases steering returnability or response. moving the top strut mount forward of the wheels is negative caster, this kills steering returnability.

Edited by chazmataz
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