hatchsub Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 I have two 5 speed front wheel drive trannies to choose from for my coupe. One is the original with 55k and the other is a known good unit out of my sedan. The sedan one has 105k on it and shifts great but is leaking from where the shifter goes into the housing. The other one is not leaking nearly as bad or at all..but there is more play in the imput shaft of that trans. Which would you choose and why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 maybe fix the leak or the input shaft bearing? i'd go with the non-leaker. leaking is annoying an usually gets worse or leads to other problems, but i've never seen a leak there so i'm not familiar with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Hmm well just went and felt the shifter fork where it comes out of the trans. There is significantly less play in gear in my 105k mile one than the other one. Also the imput shafts both have about the same amount of play now that i went and looked but the low mileage tranny actually makes a sound moving it and the high one doesnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Anyone know how hard it is to reseal the shifter seal at the back of the trans? Im assuming drill or dremel off the rivet that holds the shift fork on..then pull the seal, put new one in and do GDs bolt trick with the shifter fork? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I've never had a 2WD trans around here to look at the seal area. On the 4 speed's you just remove the transfer gear section and replace the seal. Pretty easy on those - doesn't require dissasembly of the actual trans at all. If you post a picture I could probably point out how to do it. As for the mileage - pull the drain plugs and see how much metal is on them. You can also look up in the drain hole with a flashlight and see the ring gear, etc. Although that doesen't usually tell you much about the bearing condition. If you hear noises when you turn the input shaft then I would shy away from that unit. That usually indicates input shaft bearing failure. Incidentally, I think the 2WD transmissions may not have the front input shaft - similar to an EJ transmission. If that's the case they are prone to failure and it might be a good idea to open it up and replace at least the large rear input shaft bearing - that's the one that leads to input shaft play and eventually a whole lot of noise and metal. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShakotanBoogie Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 I have done this repair. Use a drift punch to knock out the roll pins(or 'rivets' as you refer to) and you can remove the shifter from the shaft and pull the seal. My NAPA parts counter man was able to cross reference a honda civic shift shaft seal, which is a better design than OEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) I have done this repair. Use a drift punch to knock out the roll pins(or 'rivets' as you refer to) and you can remove the shifter from the shaft and pull the seal. My NAPA parts counter man was able to cross reference a honda civic shift shaft seal, which is a better design than OEM yea they are roll pins. They looked like rivets with the amount of junk that was covering them. I have the center one punched out but the ouside one is not budging. Was that part #7000? I just got a new seal from napa as well and it does not look like the original but it does look pretty good. GD im keeping the higher mileage unit for now. There is no weird noise when i wiggle the imput shaft and it shifted like butter even though it has higher mileage. I kept pretty good care of it too by double clutching when it was cold out to save the syncros. Edited January 20, 2010 by hatchsub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 ok really? I have no clue how any of you got that outside roll pin out. I have been pounding on it and bashing on it to the point im afraid of breaking something and it will not budge. I may just toss the tranny in without replacing it if its that jammed in there. I dont have a clue how they loosen up either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 ok really? I have no clue how any of you got that outside roll pin out. I have been pounding on it and bashing on it to the point im afraid of breaking something and it will not budge. I may just toss the tranny in without replacing it if its that jammed in there. I dont have a clue how they loosen up either. somtimes they weld themselves in there, you can try heat, or a cobalt drill bit, the pins are hardened,and a high speed steel bit wont last long, they can be a big "pita" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 Just when i was about to give up...i got it! I have no idea why it all of a sudden decided to go like butter but i had tried hitting it out from both sides and finally i decided to give it a couple more hits on the reverse side from the one i had massacred and it popped right out..and easy on top of it. Wish it had been that easy...idk...hours ago so i could be set to go with this. Tomorrows plan now involves me cutting threads through the shift fork and the shift rod and doing GDs trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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