Coolant Oil Milkshake

[Scooby17]

^^^ as above. Didn't drain coolant before removing intake... (that's a bad idea for future reference).

 

So I figure... no big deal. New Oil/Filter just had the crap oil and fram that i used to get it running. Guy at parts store says i need to flush with new oil filter and THEN get new filter and oil. Something about coolant being very bad for rod bearings... So. I've got a 2 oil filters but do I really need to flush with 4 quarts of oil?

[WoodsWagon]

How did the coolant get into the oil if you pulled the intake? I would think it would have gone into the intake ports and into the cylinders, not the crankcase? What engine are you working on here?

[Scooby17]

it sat for a little while with the coolant there and I'm pretty sure it leaked past the rings...

[WoodsWagon]

Did you run it after that? Did you take the spark plugs out to clear it before it started up?

 

Just do a normal oil and filter change. You're not going to get any extra out by changing the oil twice. You only do that if you're trying to clean sludge out , not coolant.

[GeneralDisorder]

Flush it with 2 quarts of oil and 2 quarts of ATF. Run it up to operating temp, let it idle for about 10 or 15 minutes and then shut it down and drain it while it's still hot.

 

GD

[Scooby17]

Thanks GD

 

Also realized that some rainwater might have went into the pcv when it was without a hose (fixed that).

 

After I flushed (wow.. atf stinks) and refilled there is still a TOD on the Passenger side. Kind of goes in/out at idle but is pretty noticeable. What might that mean? Car runs pretty good with the new weber otherwise.