sube4x4 Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I'm having a problem with removing the roll pin from my rear axle. It doesn't seem to want to budge. I've changed many axles but i've never come across one that the roll pin wouldn't tap out of. Do any of you know a trick to getting them out if they're stuck? Thanks for any help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 I've never had that problem. Are you using the right size punch. Its a 3/16" or 6mm I believe. I have more trouble with the axles being rusted to the stub axles myself (Rears) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecarman Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 What r u using to hit them out with? I just went to the wrkng yrd to find a new rear end and had the same issue. Took about 2 hrs to get the pins out. They were simply tight. Keep at it and use the right tool like the previous post was saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 If you dont want to go out and buy the correct sized punch you can make your own from a crappy Philips screwdriver thats the right diameter. Just cut the top off of it. Thats what i have as a punch and works like a charm. The idea was stolen from Backwoodsboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Log1call Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 They often have a roll-pin inside a roll-pin. That makes them very tight. The outside one is about six mills and the smaller one fits inside the big one and locks it. If you punch the smaller one first with a small diameter punch it comes out easily, then you can knock the bigger one out easily as well. You put them back in big one first then the smaller one. Often they have had the small one lost or left out on purpose, then they drive out easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAIS3R Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 i have had this issue before . turns out the aftermarket CV pin hole was drilled off by a fraction and ovaled out the pin. rule of thumb if its a *************** to install youll play hell getting it back out cuz somethings not right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 i have had this issue before . turns out the aftermarket CV pin hole was drilled off by a fraction and ovaled out the pin. rule of thumb if its a *************** to install youll play hell getting it back out cuz somethings not right hi, i have had a few that someone slipped on 180 off, the hole is close enough to get some of the pin through, so they just hammer it home. gets really wedged in there and makes a kink too, miserable. i never had trouble with one that was original parts , installed correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5_IMP Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 Are you hitting it from the right side? +1 on the right sized punch too. B'laster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 This is asked so many times that it should be in the USRM. I use a 3/16" tool to drive out the roll pins, Craftsman p/n 42885WF if you buy it at Sears. Knock the pin OUT from the non-bevelled hole side; knock the new pin IN from the bevelled hole side. If it doesn't go in and only 1/2 hole is visible, you're 180 degrees out of correct position. Pull the DOJ off and rotate it 1/2 turn and slide it back on the stub axle; the pin will now go in easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I've come across more than a few very rusted ones. soak in Sea Foam Deep Creep, then apply heat, and then force. sometimes an air hammer is a good option for getting them loose. but make sure you're using an attachment with a large enough tip, if it's too small, it'll just make it worse. even careful use of a hydraulic press has been a useful option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 (edited) The best approach is to use the RIGHT tool. It's a 6mm roll pin and if it's giving you trouble or you have occasion to come across troubled pins often then you should invest in a proper 6mm ROLL PIN PUNCH. Snap-On makes a special one just for Subaru's with an extra long handle and the dimple to center it on the pin. The key here is hitting the pin SQAURE and hitting it a heavy driving blow. That is accomplished with the proper tool. A sawn-off screwdriver has too much bounce to the handle to overcome the rust - you'll peen over metal around the pin, bend the screwdriver shaft, crack the plastic, draw blood, swear at it, etc. Using the right tool will save you some awful concequences - using various and sundry hardened tool steel bits (such as a quality screwdriver shaft or the back end of a drill bit) can land you in the hospital with fragments of said tool in your eye. They will shatter as they are not made to be wailed on - most especially when the objective is to move parts otherwise frozen with rust. It doesn't matter which side of the hole it's driven in/out of. The bevel is just where they chamfered the hole after it was drilled to clean it up. Neither the hole in the stub nor the two holes in the cup, nor the pin are tapered in any way. It's a spring steel 6mm roll pin. The comments about the hole being 180 out are true - if it's out 180 degree's on the splines it can create a very bad situation. You'll install one the wrong way about one time before you never, ever let that happen again GD Edited March 1, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 It doesn't matter which side of the hole it's driven in/out of. The bevel is just where they chamfered the hole after it was drilled to clean it up. Neither the hole in the stub nor the two holes in the cup, nor the pin are tapered in any way. It's a spring steel 6mm roll pin. I've wondered about this given that what I had in my hand was a roll pin. But they seem to come out easier punching from the non-beveled side. Probably just psychosomatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 I've wondered about this given that what I had in my hand was a roll pin. But they seem to come out easier punching from the non-beveled side. Probably just psychosomatic The non-beveled side I think provides a more positive alignment between the punch and the pin - especially if you don't have a roll-pin punch with the centering dome on it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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