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Estimate cost for Oil Seperator plate and Oil pan gasket


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it will vary quiet a bit by dealer, mechanic, or buddy and everything in between. should be able to call and get some quotes over the phone, but $500 should cover it.

 

being an interference engine might keep the timing belt job in mind too. doing large jobs at the same time can save cash sometimes.

Edited by grossgary
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Well the separator plate is like $30 for the parts but probably 4 to 5 hours labor to pull the engine/transmission to get to it. Supposing they pull the engine to do the oil pan gasket, the separator plate would take another maybe 20 minutes to fix while it's out.

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It would def be cost effective to have all the seals done at once, while the motor is out. And maybe the timing belt if you are due? I have never actually seen an oil pan leak. But when the oil pump and or separator plate leak, it looks like an oil pan.

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Thanks for all the replies. I have other threads on this issue. I had a leak - fixed by valve cover gaskets, but there is definitely "seaping" from the oil pan gasket and what looks to be the oil seperator. Need to get some more "looks" but that is what the situation seems to be right now.

 

Timing belt and water pump have been done (I did them early based on the age of the car and how low miles it had, I didn't want to have an issue with it).

 

But if I am getting both the seperator plate and oil pan looked at with all that labor, what other things should I get done that are really easy to handle with it all out? All seals, yes, anything else?

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What to do with the engine out (pick and choose)

 

This is a complete list, so ignore whatever has already been done:

Spark plugs

Seperator Plate

Clutch (if applicable)

timing belt

water pump

idler

tensioner

cam seals

main front seal

re-seal oil pump

valve cover gaskets

spark plug bucket seals

valve adjustment

 

Before you attack this, wash down the bottom of the engine and make sure the oil pan leak is an honest oil pan gasket leak. They rarely leak.

 

nipper

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I've seen lots of plastic ones.

 

Only one with a hair line crack. And I don't remember but it may have been a JY engine delivered that way.

 

I reseal the plastic ones. Haven't had an issue yet. And I'm not one for short cutting or skimping.

 

The labor for an independent shop is probably fair.

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Haha, yep, from Subaru they are around that much. For the metal ones. I throw away all the plastic ones that used to come on them. They aren't worth a damn.

 

I gotta replace the plastic one on my motor now I get an oil leak from that which is enough to cause my oil level to drop from full to the L mark in about a week along with a leaky cam seal.

 

the good thing is I will be pulling the motor in about 3-4 weeks so I can fix this pesky issue.

 

and nipper haha clear rocks for 100,000 sounds like something in my town people would buy just to have.

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Yes, I've seen them with cracks too. But they always seem to leak. I can't stand doing a job twice. I'm not saying resealing the plastic ones is wrong. It's just worth it to me to know I won't have a leak after installing a metal plate. I've never had anyone complain, so I just replace them. :-)

Edited by 94Loyale
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