Engine Compatibility 96 to Current

[guydakine]

Hey all, does anyone know of a compatibility chart or reference list as to what EJ25 engines and transmissions bolt up to one another?? i.e., can a 99 Outback bolt up to a 2000 Forester?? What are the years and Vin codes that match? Thanks.

[Legacy777]

I don't know if there's a compatibility chart per say, but there's some threads about various engine compatibilities.

[idosubaru]

that's all well covered here. documentation gets thing in the later models like 2005 +. search for engine swap stuff and you'll find it.

 

no - a 1999 OBW will not swap with a 2000 Forester.

 

in general for EJ25's, these years are interchangeable:

 

1996-1999 (except 1999 Forester) EJ25's are all interchangeable.

 

2000+ (1999 Forester) are interchangeable, not sure when they change after that though.

[subaru360]

that's all well covered here. documentation gets thing in the later models like 2005 +. search for engine swap stuff and you'll find it.

 

no - a 1999 OBW will not swap with a 2000 Forester.

 

in general for EJ25's, these years are interchangeable:

 

1996-1999 (except 1999 Forester) EJ25's are all interchangeable.

 

2000+ (1999 Forester) are interchangeable, not sure when they change after that though.

 

99 Impreza 2.5 RS is phase 2 as well.

 

In 05 or 06 they added variable valve timing. You can still use those engines in older cars. It just won't work, the ecu won't control it and defaults to full lift, runs fine.

 

Keep the intake manifold with the car. Swap it onto the new engine.

[ericcroll]

Are you saying that ALL Subarus use the EJ25 and are compatible from 1996-1999? I'm getting ready to change the engine in my 1997 Outback Legacy Wagon, and I'm about to make the trip to the U-Pull it salvage yard (no returns). I'd like to be able to take advantage of the widest possible selection of vehicles that I can.

 

that's all well covered here. documentation gets thing in the later models like 2005 +. search for engine swap stuff and you'll find it.

 

no - a 1999 OBW will not swap with a 2000 Forester.

 

in general for EJ25's, these years are interchangeable:

 

1996-1999 (except 1999 Forester) EJ25's are all interchangeable.

 

2000+ (1999 Forester) are interchangeable, not sure when they change after that though.

[davebugs]

I'd get a 2.2.

 

Or PM me about a 2.2 (I have 3 here) that I've heard run.

 

Or I have a running 2.5 in a 97 OBW that the HGs must have been done in but has some rod knock.

 

Don't know which Hazleton you're in - there are several in PA I believe. If you're out by Philly a trip doesn't make sense.

 

But I'd still get a 2.2. If you dont' get a 95 2.2 and get a 96-99 get the Y pipe as well.

 

If you get a 2.5 might as well do the HG's and reseal while it's out and pray the bearings are still good.

 

Frankly I wouldn't buy a 2.5 with a no return policy. Just not worth it!

 

Most of the variance is rubber hose vacuum line plumbing.

[johnceggleston]

I'm getting ready to change the engine in my 1997 Outback Legacy Wagon, and I'm about to make the trip to the U-Pull it salvage yard (no returns).

 

 

i wouldn't put in a EJ25 with out replacing the head gaskets first.

 

and go for the ones in the wrecks first, they are more likely to have been running well at the end and not overheated. check for gunk in the radiator overflow bottle, if it is there.

[ericcroll]

This is my first Subaru, so I'm kind of green. Are the 2.5s really that unreliable? You sound pretty turned off by them.

Since my last post, I spoke with a guy at a junkyard who told me that the EJ25 vehicles have a 6 as the 6th VIN digit. Do you know what that digit would be for a 2.2 that would fit in my OBW? How about the model number for the 2.2?

I'm in the Hazleton on the East side of the state. I normally get out that way for training camp, but not this year.

I didn't really understand this part of your post:

 

But I'd still get a 2.2. If you dont' get a 95 2.2 and get a 96-99 get the Y pipe as well.

 

Will these engines pull from an Impreza, Legacy, etc, and mount right up to my OBW? Are there computer compatibility concerns?

I know that's a lot of questions, don't mean to bug you.

 

I'd get a 2.2.

 

Or PM me about a 2.2 (I have 3 here) that I've heard run.

 

Or I have a running 2.5 in a 97 OBW that the HGs must have been done in but has some rod knock.

 

Don't know which Hazleton you're in - there are several in PA I believe. If you're out by Philly a trip doesn't make sense.

 

But I'd still get a 2.2. If you dont' get a 95 2.2 and get a 96-99 get the Y pipe as well.

 

If you get a 2.5 might as well do the HG's and reseal while it's out and pray the bearings are still good.

 

Frankly I wouldn't buy a 2.5 with a no return policy. Just not worth it!

 

Most of the variance is rubber hose vacuum line plumbing.

[ericcroll]

I discovered some of that in mine, but only in the overflow. Is that a typical Subaru HG thing?

 

i wouldn't put in a EJ25 with out replacing the head gaskets first.

 

and go for the ones in the wrecks first, they are more likely to have been running well at the end and not overheated. check for gunk in the radiator overflow bottle, if it is there.

[johnceggleston]

I discovered some of that in mine, but only in the overflow. Is that a typical Subaru HG thing?

 

yes, the exhaust leaks into the coolant, that includes gases, oils and unburned fuel. this shows up as really black junk in the overflow. one i saw looked like the inside of the overflow had been sprayed with bed liner.

 

i would look for a good 2.2L engine, less work and money.

[ericcroll]

yes, the exhaust leaks into the coolant, that includes gases, oils and unburned fuel. this shows up as really black junk in the overflow. one i saw looked like the inside of the overflow had been sprayed with bed liner.

 

i would look for a good 2.2L engine, less work and money.

 

That sounds familiar.

Do you know what I need to look for to get a compatible 2.2 (vehicle models, years, VINs, etc), and what I should be looking out for in terms of accessories that won't fit exactly?

[cobcob]

yes, the exhaust leaks into the coolant, that includes gases, oils and unburned fuel. this shows up as really black junk in the overflow. one i saw looked like the inside of the overflow had been sprayed with bed liner.

 

i would look for a good 2.2L engine, less work and money.

 

True, you unfortunately can't use this as a hard and fast measure of if the HG's in the motor are good or not. If the HG's were replaced but the tech didn't clean the overflow bottle then you're still going to see that residue in there. It's a good thing to check but it's easier to determine HG issues by looking at the driver's side of the engine from underneath the car. The HG leak tends to evidence itself by dark marks at the joint of the head to the block. The coolant typically drips onto the exhaust manifold and evaporates while the engine is running which is why you won't typically see puddles of coolant from this type of leak.

[johnceggleston]

That sounds familiar.

Do you know what I need to look for to get a compatible 2.2 (vehicle models, years, VINs, etc), and what I should be looking out for in terms of accessories that won't fit exactly?

 

search for posts by user tricked919 he's working on a swap right now and has asked virtually all the question you are just starting to ask. he has started several threads over the last couple of weeks. read them from oldest to newest. and you will get a good education. then if you still need help, ask, that's why we are here.

 

basically you want a 95 - 98 2.2L from an auto trans car. some are easier than others, but read up and then ask.

[ericcroll]

search for posts by user tricked919 he's working on a swap right now and has asked virtually all the question you are just starting to ask. he has started several threads over the last couple of weeks. read them from oldest to newest. and you will get a good education. then if you still need help, ask, that's why we are here.

 

basically you want a 95 - 98 2.2L from an auto trans car. some are easier than others, but read up and then ask.

 

Thanks. Good advice. I've been reading everthing he has out there, and learning a lot. The one thing that I'm running into that is different than his situation, is that I'm going to be wanding around a junkyard looking for an EJ22, and I'm not sure what to look for. I'm understanding that they're in the 95-96 Legacys, but that's about it. Can I find them in other models? Is there a fail-proof way to identify the engine by external sight?

[johnceggleston]

Can I find them in other models? Is there a fail-proof way to identify the engine by external sight?

 

sorta, the ej22 was / is a single cam engine. unlike your ej25 which is a dual cam engine. yours has 2 lobes on each side of the engine instead of just one.

 

but in 99 - 00 the ej25 went to single cam. so if you stick with the 95 - 98 body style and the engine has one cam on each side it is a go. 95 - 96 have a sticker on the door jamb listing the build date and vin, 97 - 98 do not have the sticker. so look for the body style, look at the engine , look for the build date sticker. if it matches all 3 you are good to go.

 

then double check with the id plate on the driver side strut tower, this will confirm it is an ej22 but not the year.

 

the ej22 was also in SOME imprezas in the 90s. check the id tag.

(ps: 95s have a S in the vin near the middle, 96s have a T, 97s a V, 98 = W)

 

again, you want an engine from a auto trans car.

Edited June 4, 2010 by johnceggleston

[cobcob]

Is there a fail-proof way to identify the engine by external sight?

 

Check for the EJ stamping on the block... EJ22 has EJ22 stamped on it, EJ25 has EJ25 on it. Then count the cams.

[ericcroll]

sorta, the ej22 was / is a single cam engine. unlike your ej25 which is a dual cam engine. yours has 2 lobes on each side of the engine instead of just one.

 

but in 99 - 00 the ej25 went to single cam. so if you stick with the 95 - 98 body style and the engine has one cam on each side it is a go. 95 - 96 have a sticker on the door jamb listing the build date and vin, 97 - 98 do not have the sticker. so look for the body style, look at the engine , look for the build date sticker. if it matches all 3 you are good to go.

 

then double check with the id plate on the driver side strut tower, this will confirm it is an ej22 but not the year.

 

the ej22 was also in SOME imprezas in the 90s. check the id tag.

(ps: 95s have a S in the vin near the middle, 96s have a T, 97s a V, 98 = W)

 

again, you want an engine from a auto trans car.

 

Thanks. You guys rock!

[tricked919]

I are here.

 

Yes, I am doing an EJ22 swap at this very moment. I own a 97 OBW that I bought from a very good mechanic who bought it with bad HG's to flip it. He did an outstanding job on the heads, and replaced everything under the sun associated with it. He even let us test drive the car for 500 miles to make sure it was OK. Less than a month later a tick came that turned into an AWFUL knock. No doubt we're a week away from throwing a rod.

 

I bought an EJ22 out of a 95 Legacy Sedan (thanks to John). I ended up finding a couple other options, but this seemed like the best (lets hope so). I can tell you that from what I've seen, the EJ22's might be bulletproof but they leak oil like that cluster down in the Gulf. Every seal and gasket on this motor had puked, so I have been spending my nights for the past 10 days burning up cans of carb cleaner and replacing seals and gaskets. I would HIGHLY advise that you just plan on getting a seal kit. The only 2 I did not need were front and rear mains.

 

If your EJ25 is in working order with exception to the head gaskets, you have the benefit of comparing lots of parts and taking what the best of both motors. The tensioner, EGR, fuel psi regulator and a couple other parts on my 25 were in MUCH better shape and they swapped over. On that note, you need to make sure you find a 22 out of an auto car that has EGR. Apparently a handful of 22's in manuals did not have EGR systems. I think they will work, but you will have a CEL and no way around it. And I needed the Y-pipe (single port vs the EJ25 dual port).

 

I do not have the motor in yet (hopefully Sunday) and I am forecasting problems with my vacuum lines. THere's a couple solenoids that my 25 had that are missing on the 22 and will not swap. I'm sure they can be bypassed, but I know my ECU will be looking for them. It'll take some faking out. I'll post what I do.

 

As for the feasibility of this job... I've never pulled a motor in my life - let alone swapped with a different motor and I'm coming a long pretty well. Its a fairly easy job if you know how to use tools and you have a decent selection of 10, 12, and 14mm sockets. The guys on this forum are insanely talented and good at checking in to give advise. I've never waited longer than a night for an answer - and better yet have never been flamed for the MANY dumb questions I have asked. I have been plugged in heavily to the top Jeep and 350Z forums and this blows the doors off anything I've seen as far as technical resources from posters.

 

Good luck!

Edited June 4, 2010 by tricked919

[davebugs]

In regards to your question to a posting of mine in this thread you've probably turned up the info in a search by now.

 

The main reason a 95 2.2 is "preferred" is because you can use the Y-pipe off your 2.5, and it's also non-interference.

 

96-99 are SINGLE PORT exhaust so if you swap in one of them you need it's matching Y-pipe.

 

JY's often consider Impreza and Legacy engines to be different. Impreza's are cheaper. Either will work when swapping in for a 2.5.

 

Common issuea are always vacuum lines (and sometimes EVAP lines) and breather hoses.

[idosubaru]

most 15+ year old engines have leaky seals, Subaru's just tend to ACTUALLY last that long with a high number of miles and usage. other makes have the added "feature" of not being able, or asked, to do that. subaru's do have twice the number of parts than many cars since they're horizontally opposed - twice the number of valve covers, grommets, cam seals, head gaskets, etc compared to most cars.

 

on a serious notes, it's usually a good idea to reseal the motor once and for all.

 

rear separator (if the engine is coming out) valve cover gaskets, cam seals, crank seal, and resealing the oil pump. you might want to consider doing the oil pump while it's out of the car and you're in the middle of this. the pump is sealed to the block with anaerobic sealant, there's one o-ring and the backing plate screws are usually loose, tigthen them with locktite on the threads. now to add more work and parts but i'd do it now personally rather than have mostly new seals and a few that are 15 years old and sat in a yard not running for who knows how long.

[ericcroll]

I are here.

 

Yes, I am doing an EJ22 swap at this very moment. I own a 97 OBW that I bought from a very good mechanic who bought it with bad HG's to flip it. He did an outstanding job on the heads, and replaced everything under the sun associated with it. He even let us test drive the car for 500 miles to make sure it was OK. Less than a month later a tick came that turned into an AWFUL knock. No doubt we're a week away from throwing a rod.

 

I bought an EJ22 out of a 95 Legacy Sedan (thanks to John). I ended up finding a couple other options, but this seemed like the best (lets hope so). I can tell you that from what I've seen, the EJ22's might be bulletproof but they leak oil like that cluster down in the Gulf. Every seal and gasket on this motor had puked, so I have been spending my nights for the past 10 days burning up cans of carb cleaner and replacing seals and gaskets. I would HIGHLY advise that you just plan on getting a seal kit. The only 2 I did not need were front and rear mains.

 

If your EJ25 is in working order with exception to the head gaskets, you have the benefit of comparing lots of parts and taking what the best of both motors. The tensioner, EGR, fuel psi regulator and a couple other parts on my 25 were in MUCH better shape and they swapped over. On that note, you need to make sure you find a 22 out of an auto car that has EGR. Apparently a handful of 22's in manuals did not have EGR systems. I think they will work, but you will have a CEL and no way around it. And I needed the Y-pipe (single port vs the EJ25 dual port).

 

I do not have the motor in yet (hopefully Sunday) and I am forecasting problems with my vacuum lines. THere's a couple solenoids that my 25 had that are missing on the 22 and will not swap. I'm sure they can be bypassed, but I know my ECU will be looking for them. It'll take some faking out. I'll post what I do.

 

As for the feasibility of this job... I've never pulled a motor in my life - let alone swapped with a different motor and I'm coming a long pretty well. Its a fairly easy job if you know how to use tools and you have a decent selection of 10, 12, and 14mm sockets. The guys on this forum are insanely talented and good at checking in to give advise. I've never waited longer than a night for an answer - and better yet have never been flamed for the MANY dumb questions I have asked. I have been plugged in heavily to the top Jeep and 350Z forums and this blows the doors off anything I've seen as far as technical resources from posters.

 

Good luck!

 

So... how'd it go? I've been looking around for a 2.2, but no luck yet. I might go the the U-Pull it yard to scope that option out, but I have a spare vehicle to run in the mean time, so I'm not in that much of a hurry. I'm probably looking at a couple of weeks before I get started. I've changed a couple of engines over the years, but never without a little consultation with my former mechanic father; it's a nice resource to have.

[ericcroll]

I are here.

 

Yes, I am doing an EJ22 swap at this very moment. I own a 97 OBW that I bought from a very good mechanic who bought it with bad HG's to flip it. He did an outstanding job on the heads, and replaced everything under the sun associated with it. He even let us test drive the car for 500 miles to make sure it was OK. Less than a month later a tick came that turned into an AWFUL knock. No doubt we're a week away from throwing a rod.

 

I bought an EJ22 out of a 95 Legacy Sedan (thanks to John). I ended up finding a couple other options, but this seemed like the best (lets hope so). I can tell you that from what I've seen, the EJ22's might be bulletproof but they leak oil like that cluster down in the Gulf. Every seal and gasket on this motor had puked, so I have been spending my nights for the past 10 days burning up cans of carb cleaner and replacing seals and gaskets. I would HIGHLY advise that you just plan on getting a seal kit. The only 2 I did not need were front and rear mains.

 

If your EJ25 is in working order with exception to the head gaskets, you have the benefit of comparing lots of parts and taking what the best of both motors. The tensioner, EGR, fuel psi regulator and a couple other parts on my 25 were in MUCH better shape and they swapped over. On that note, you need to make sure you find a 22 out of an auto car that has EGR. Apparently a handful of 22's in manuals did not have EGR systems. I think they will work, but you will have a CEL and no way around it. And I needed the Y-pipe (single port vs the EJ25 dual port).

 

I do not have the motor in yet (hopefully Sunday) and I am forecasting problems with my vacuum lines. THere's a couple solenoids that my 25 had that are missing on the 22 and will not swap. I'm sure they can be bypassed, but I know my ECU will be looking for them. It'll take some faking out. I'll post what I do.

 

As for the feasibility of this job... I've never pulled a motor in my life - let alone swapped with a different motor and I'm coming a long pretty well. Its a fairly easy job if you know how to use tools and you have a decent selection of 10, 12, and 14mm sockets. The guys on this forum are insanely talented and good at checking in to give advise. I've never waited longer than a night for an answer - and better yet have never been flamed for the MANY dumb questions I have asked. I have been plugged in heavily to the top Jeep and 350Z forums and this blows the doors off anything I've seen as far as technical resources from posters.

 

Good luck!

 

Another thing...

Do you happen to know what that knob on the passenger side of the floor hump is for?

[ericcroll]

search for posts by user tricked919 he's working on a swap right now and has asked virtually all the question you are just starting to ask. he has started several threads over the last couple of weeks. read them from oldest to newest. and you will get a good education. then if you still need help, ask, that's why we are here.

 

basically you want a 95 - 98 2.2L from an auto trans car. some are easier than others, but read up and then ask.

 

Do you know where I might be able to find a vacuum line map? I understand that there may be some work to do on that front with the 2.5/2.2 swap-out.

Also (off-topic), do you happen to know what that knob is on the passenger side floor of my '97 OBW?