what parts do I need to tune my 96 legacy

[Jaysz]

Ok I bought a 96 Legacy LSI wagon, ej2.5 with 93000 miles and after about 200 or so miles it has been an absolute pleasure to drive, the 6 disc changer has no cartridge and so I am going to put an Alpine deck in with built in bluetooth. Anyway I want to do the preventative maintenance like we usually do (my wife and I) so what parts do I need besides these.

Oh it was leaking oil badly when I bought it replaced the valve cover gaskets, new tires, back brakes and rotors and an inspection, and it seems to have subsided,

still smell oil a little when I get out of the car but it has not been cleaned since the gaskets were put in.

 

timing belt

water pump

oil pump o ring

water pump

wire set

plugs

idler

fuel filter

air filter

do I need a tensioner??

 

 

It is an automatic was owned by an older woman and she did not drive it too much, don't have the service records though, also the gas fill pipe must have given out so they replaced it, will post pics later, however the door covering the gas cap and pipe area will not close, there is not latch on the car side of things just a hole, any ideas? Also I will be having a local mechanic do all the labor as I really don't do very much on cars, houses yes, cars not really.

 

Thank you to everyone for all your help, hope to hear from you soon

[davebugs]

Pull the engine and fix the baffle plate/oil seperator plate. Search around here - common issue.

 

Suggest OEM wires.

 

NGK cheap V-groove (Green printing) spark plugs.

 

OEM cam/crank seals. I like the OEM WP gasket as well.

 

Get idler set online. It'll come with an idler for the old style tensioner that you have.

 

Do some searching. If nothing else for head gasket repair to get the info on all this other stuff. Come to think of it if you plan on keeping it jsut do the HG's with OEM while the engine is out.

[Rooster2]

Pull the engine and fix the baffle plate/oil seperator plate. Search around here - common issue.

 

Suggest OEM wires.

 

NGK cheap V-groove (Green printing) spark plugs.

 

OEM cam/crank seals. I like the OEM WP gasket as well.

 

Get idler set online. It'll come with an idler for the old style tensioner that you have.

 

Do some searching. If nothing else for head gasket repair to get the info on all this other stuff. Come to think of it if you plan on keeping it jsut do the HG's with OEM while the engine is out.

 

 

 

Suggest you really trace down any additional oil leak, before thinking of pulling the engine. The baffle plate oil/separator may not be the problem. All other advise written above is solid advise.

[davebugs]

FYI for a few bucks (maybe 20) you can buy a cheap kit at the parts store with additive to put into the oil and a blacklight and yellow glasses.

 

I do enough Suby's that I purchased a complete kit (oil, water, AC, etc).

 

It's worth the few bucks to potentially save you pulling the engine.

 

But it it has never been out I'd make a serious bit it's the baffle plate.

 

Look at the Y pipe where it comes together for just enough oil to be annoying.

 

It'll take a while for it to show up on the Y pipe since the baffle plate doesn't leak bad.

 

But this way you may be the lucky one who doesn't need to pull the engine.

 

As pointed out. It's a bigger job to do the baffle plate - but I'd bet that's where you're heading. And if you have it out just do the HG's and be done for the next 100k.

 

If it is the baffle plate other than being annoying it really doesn't hurt anything.

[Jaysz]

I don't intend on pulling the engine, my 96 OB has leaked oil considerably for a while and it is not big deal just to add the oil when needed and haven't had any real problems for a long time. If I was able to do the work myself and if I had a backup car, I don't, I might think about it, I have a feeling that the head gaskets may have been done already, I have none of the symptoms I have seen on any of the posts I have read, and the known problems on this model seemed to have already been resolved. Also please realize work costs me $60 an hour and so if I am leaking oil slightly I am not going to pay hundreds of dollars to fix it, all 4 of the ru's I have owned have leaked oil to some extent.

I appreciate all of the advice greatly, but I don't have the luxury of being able to do the work myself or have a place to do it, though that would be nice. This car only cost me $1400 with the work already done, I have almost $2k into the car, I hope to drive it for a month or two then do the work when I have some more funds available, but I will buy the parts now. If and when the head gasket goes I will take care of it, I have watched the temp gauge like a hawk and will continue to do so, temp gauge has not really gotten up to the half way point yet and I the heater works very well. Thank you all very much, I welcome any and all response. Jay.

 

Anyone know of a more reasonable solid mechanic in my area, I have used tomssvx a couple of times but he isn't doing work right now, LMK.

Edited January 26, 2010 by Jaysz

[nipper]

Timing belt

Water Pump

cam Seals

Main Seal front

re-seal the oil pump

Tensioner

Idler

Accessory drive belts

 

Get an OE t-stat just because. Also replace the rad cap since it is old.

 

 

Tuneup

Stock plugs

Factory wires

Fuel filter

Air Filter

PCV Valve

OE wires

 

 

Then your good for another 106K

 

Before you start, wash down the bottom of the engine and trace your leaks. If you need vlave cover gaskets they should be OE alone with spark plug bucket gromits.