Loboru Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Hi, I've looked all around the forums and still can't find a cohesive explanation as to how to pull codes from my TCU and ECU without an OBD scanner. Some posts are outdated and missing images or have dead links. Can anyone explain to me how to use the green/black connectors with the 2 ground jumper wires? As far as details, I've had the car for 4 months and it has about 170K miles on it. It has bad torque binding when making slow turns, and the AT Oil Temp light has always flashed on startup. The last few months the check engine light has been on. I don't know much about the history of the car, but the engine is in top running condition. The transmission seems to shift pretty well, but it feels like the AWD system is causing some intermittent hesitation while accelerating from a standstill. The trans. fluid looks decent and doesn't seem burnt. I'm torn between whether or not to change it or not, since it may have never been changed. Seems like I might need a new duty C, but I'd like to know the specifics so as to avoid replacing unnecessary things and/or skipping over things that definitely need replacing. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 As far as I know the only way to read the codes out of an OBDII is with a scanner. Many of the auto parts stores will read them for free! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 OBD II scanner is the way to go. They're only $30 on ebay or have them read free at various national chains like Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone, etc. Since all cars since 1997 are OBDII though the $30 versions on ebay pay for themselves easily. As for torque bind, that's well documented here, do some searching. You can run it in FWD just fine. If you're running it with torque bind you're putting all sorts of strain on components through out your transmission and drivetrain. Install the FWD fuse immediately. If you have permanent torque bind you can even remove the rear half of the driveshaft so you're only in FWD. this will protect your trans and axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 You don't need a code-reading tool to get the TCU codes. The following threads have info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=809109 See post #10 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96782&page=2 See posts #14 and 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loboru Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) You don't need a code-reading tool to get the TCU codes. The following threads have info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=809109 See post #10 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96782&page=2 See posts #14 and 16 Thanks OB99W, thats exactly the info I was looking for! I had found other posts like this, but none as detailed and specific to my car. Edited January 28, 2010 by Loboru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loboru Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) OBD II scanner is the way to go. They're only $30 on ebay or have them read free at various national chains like Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone, etc. Since all cars since 1997 are OBDII though the $30 versions on ebay pay for themselves easily. As for torque bind, that's well documented here, do some searching. You can run it in FWD just fine. If you're running it with torque bind you're putting all sorts of strain on components through out your transmission and drivetrain. Install the FWD fuse immediately. If you have permanent torque bind you can even remove the rear half of the driveshaft so you're only in FWD. this will protect your trans and axles. Thanks for the reply. Yea, I've read up a lot on torque binding. It's just a matter of figuring out the best route to take towards fixing it. Putting a fuse in the FWD slot did nothing, and there is also no AWD light that is supposed to come on (Not sue with my 97 IOBS though). I've read mixed things about OBDII scanner not reading at all on some cars, especially pre 98, so thats why I'd rather try to use the handshake that OB99W just showed me. As far as removing the driveshaft, can you give me more details as to which part to remove exactly. I'll look around for a post with some pics. Would that involve draining any fluid or oil? Also, would I need to somehow seal any exposed components? Thanks Edited January 28, 2010 by Loboru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 driveshaft to the rear diff is two pieces. remove the rear half. the front half seals the rear output shaft seal area and fluid in, you'll be leaving that in place. once the cover plate is out of the way (if it's even present) it's only 8 12mm nuts to remove the driveshaft and you're done. very quick and simple. i've owned a 97 OBS and the OBDII scanners work with those. although i've never tried to rear the TCU codes, that's another ball game, i was speaking only have Check Engine Light codes. my OBDII scanner has worked on every 1997 Subaru I've worked on actually, so my assumption is they should work. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loboru Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 driveshaft to the rear diff is two pieces. remove the rear half. the front half seals the rear output shaft seal area and fluid in, you'll be leaving that in place. once the cover plate is out of the way (if it's even present) it's only 8 12mm nuts to remove the driveshaft and you're done. very quick and simple. i've owned a 97 OBS and the OBDII scanners work with those. although i've never tried to rear the TCU codes, that's another ball game, i was speaking only have Check Engine Light codes. my OBDII scanner has worked on every 1997 Subaru I've worked on actually, so my assumption is they should work. good luck. Thanks for the very useful info. I will definitely get a scanner soon for the CE light, for now it's the binding issue. I need to get down there and remove the driveshaft real soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loboru Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 Ok, I tried the described methods to pull the TCM codes but nothing works on my 97 IOBS. My 6 pin connector only has pins 1,2, and 5 populated (missing 4 that the directions call for). I tried those, but they do nothing, except the first 2 make the ABS/Airbag light flash. Does anyone know of anything else I could try? I just need the specific procedure for my 87 IOBS i guess. Also, any idea what the male and female green connectors are for? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loboru Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 OK... At long last, I FINALLY figured out how to pull the TCU codes on my 97 Impreza OBS!!! I used this pdf guide: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1333&d=1091550284 You will however need to know how to perform a couple of ill-described details about the procedure on page 13. 1. What they mean by "connect diagnosis switch to ON" is to plug a ground wire into pin 5 of the TCU diagnostic connector. At least thats the connector for my car, apparently it's different with other years and other models even of the same year! 2. The guide incorrectly tells you to switch the ignition to "OFF", and then move the shift lever to D which is not possible because of the shift lock mechanism. I just turned the Ignition ON, moved it to D, and switched it back to OFF. Then connect the ground to pin 5, switch the ignition to ON again, and follow the rest of the procedure. I got code 24 (duty c solenoid failure), which I was pretty sure of already. Now I just gotta get the driveshaft out until I can get the duty C replacement. Anyone know the best/cheapest place to buy one? Since my clutch pack might be damaged, is it possible to just buy all new components instead of filing down the grooves of the clutch hub? If so, about how much would that stuff cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 (edited) OK... At long last, I FINALLY figured out how to pull the TCU codes on my 97 Impreza OBS!!!Congrats! [...] You will however need to know how to perform a couple of ill-described details about the procedure on page 13. That's why earlier in this thread I referred you to one of my previous posts, specifically #14 in it. Edited January 29, 2010 by OB99W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 29, 2010 Share Posted January 29, 2010 /quote/ Anyone know the best/cheapest place to buy one? /quote/ https://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ i prefer the first one, you can email or call jamie. other folks like the second, jason i think. you need 2 gaskets for the solenoid, "duty c valve assembly". you do not need a gasket for the trans case, use a good "rtv ultra" gasket goo stuff. you can replace the clutch discs if you want but you probably do not need them. just change the fluid, often. the duty c and 2 gaskets is about 75$ plus shipping, i think. and there are some old posts with part numbers if you need them, which you probably will not. or you can search here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loboru Posted January 29, 2010 Author Share Posted January 29, 2010 That's why earlier in this thread I referred you to one of my previous posts, specifically #14 in it. Yes, and that info was eventually helpful. The only problem was that those posts didn't provide a link to the actual pdf (they just mentioned it). After sifting through a million posts on several different subaru sites, I finally got the pdf and all the info I needed. Even then, I had to basically experiment because the pdf guide didn't specify what years/models it pertains to. It also threw me when some people posted the right steps for the late 90's handshake, but they all left out the "warm up the car and drive 12mph" part. That info was in the pdf. Thanks again to all that helped. These forums are a great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBalls Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 Is there a schematic for the wiring harness of the 97 4EAT somewhere on here? I think the "mechanic" screwed up the wiring when he did the head gaskets. Now the car has torque bind big time. I get 16 flashes. The AWD fuse does nothing and GM limited slip additive does nothing. I doubt it's a coincidence that torque bind showed up when we got the car back from them. I inspected the wire harness and it seems fine. I guess I can pull the rear section of the driveshaft, but that's just lame. I gotta do something, the roads are drying up and this car drives like crap now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 [...] Now the car has torque bind big time. I get 16 flashes. [...] The 16 flashes indicate an electrically-related problem -- see my post #8 here for some possibile causes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108790 If you get the code, let us know what it is and we can probably suggest a place to start looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBalls Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 The 16 flashes indicate an electrically-related problem -- see my post #8 here for some possibile causes:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108790 If you get the code, let us know what it is and we can probably suggest a place to start looking. I guess I'm hijacking this thread, sorry. Hopefully this will be usefull to someone in the future... I found a single black connector under the dash but I don't see the other end to plug into. The code-pulling procedure is useless without the connectors being plugged in. I have the dealorship installed remote door lock unit crowding up a lot of space under there also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 22, 2010 Share Posted February 22, 2010 [...]I found a single black connector under the dash but I don't see the other end to plug into. The code-pulling procedure is useless without the connectors being plugged in. [...] May I suggest that you read this entire thread, including links to previous threads? You should be looking for a 6-position diagnostic connector (not all of the positions may have wires) that is often taped to the harness, along with two "diagnosis terminals" (ground wires that each have a pin that can mate with the diagnostic connector). In particular, see post #14 of this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96782&page=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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