GeneralDisorder Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 They have very low HP and torque output without the turbo but the turbo is tiny and should spool very fast. They are probably somewhere around 65 to 75 HP without the turbo - 115 HP with. Non turbo's are 85 to 90 HP but have 9.5:1 compression vs. the 7.7:1 of the turbo. No/bad turbo = slugmobile. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 it feels kinda slow to rev, maybe its normal with no boost cuz when the boost kicks in, it revs good! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 you just aren't worthy. just give the girl to me and I will show her some proper lovin! BTW to the rest of the board, I bought my legacy from Wagaru, I work right across the office from him. We'll get this thing squared away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 well well its been a good week for the old girl. she got a new exhaust system from the turbo back. in my commitment to keep her basically stock, i did not go over the top. 2 and 1/4 " pipe all the way back, new cat, eliminated the precat, new muffler (round canister style stock replacement) and a tasteful tip that resembles a stock legacy tip. very conservative looking with a very slight increase in sound which is really only noticeable to the subaru guy. temp sensor is new and working well, new plugs, synthetic oil change, better quality filter, i have a new cd player for her, got my cross badge from pep boys which is the only real custom part i have added, and only to display my faith, it doesn't make me go faster, lol. i also picked up a new O2 sensor and a hayden slimline fan with an adjustable temp controller. i also grabbed some stuff to rewire a lot of the stuff that was wired when i got it, as it was wired a while back and not terribly well. i had a close call on the way into work, where i started to get hot, and we managed to get the temp down before engine death, BUT it happened because of shoddy wiring to the fan. so i will be rewiring that as well as installing the new hayden unit as soon as its a bit warmer. were now in our 3RD!!!!!!! freak snow storm in texas this winter. those of you not from here, its hard to describe how snow affects the texas driver... we have a hard time with water, and it rains like the amazon here in the spring time. were famous among weather junkies for our brutal storms in spring and torrential rains that flood whole towns away sometimes, and tornados and hail etc. and yet somehow we have never learned how to drive in the rain. increase your stopping distance and go slower, not rocket science! but when it snows, even a little, people just find a wall and drive into it. whole school districts close because our educators have realized that no one here can drive in the snow. even one inch of sticking snow will brutalize the morning news casts with school closures and 5 extra weather reports of the ARCTIC BLAST! BLAST BLAST! and its supposed to snow again tomorrow sorry had to go off for a second. anyway shes driving like a champ! but now shes having trouble holding a solid idle. it'll idle but at like 350 rpm, and if you catch it right it'll just die. not entirely sure whats happening here. i know that the plug on the coolant temp sensor was corroded, as was the tps plug and i wish to buy new ones. are these available from a specialty manufacturer? they seem like they would be tough to replace with other 23 year old ultra brittle plastic junk plugs, and new ones feel like a better option. i just need to find them now, so if anyone has a source for these, chime in. i'll post some pics as soon as i get off my bum and take em Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) so i was looking over some old posts and i cam across this problem form another member "Have to reopen thread again, the right rotor certainly helped but I still have a bad miss/stumble above 3500rpm, would this be a fuel starvation issue (new fuel pump & filter installed), ignition issue or turbo issue. The reason I say turbo is that I have a smal preturbo exhaust leak and I only get ~ 5psi of boost. This morning I also noted that I could "sneak" up to 4500 rpm range if I kept it from boosting (maintained intake vacuum). If I floor it (full boost), its like I hit a wall @ 3500 rpm and can't accelerate anymore, it just misses and stumbles. Any clues anyone? " quoted from quartus this is pretty much the issue i had/have ish in a nut shell. i could not get the car over 45mph when i got it at first. full throttle an all i hit a 45 mph cealing. i tinkered with the vacuum lines, re checked everything and got it topping out at 75ish. after the work ive done here, im not sure what my top speed is, but its almost driving like a normal car again! its about 90 percent better now, and still bucks a bit but it is driveable. my precat was VERY clogged and also cracked in 4 pieces inside the down pipe. i ran a new system with all new everything and it ran me a cool 300$ im still having a very low idle and some less pronounced bucking and surging, but it boosts MUCH better and is driveable, though not as peppy as i know it should be. i believe that my timing is a tooth off because it feels much like the timing on my impreza did when i set it one tooth off. kinda sluggish to get going then then when the rpms pick up, it seems like it moves better. might be wrong though, it is a low milage motor. the knock sensors came up on another thread, also, could this be an issue?? if so, where are they located and are they readily available. also same question from an earlier post on this thread, does anyone know where i can find replacements for my brittle connectors?? ie: coolant temp sensor, tps, etc etc. any help is good. so far we are making progress, just working out the kinks right now. Edited February 12, 2010 by wagaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 cmon! nothin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 so i have a new gl10. 4wd, of course, with a jdm ea82t (or so im told, im not an expert on these.) and it runs as it should for a low mileage motor, except, when it gets warm. im not talking over heating, but i mean it runs like a scalded cat until it gets to o/t then it feels like its missing, or running rich/lean. when i filled up, and i remnember that for some reason their "premium" was 90, 90!!! i added the best at the next gas station, when i was on e, and that was sadly only 91, but this seemed to make a noticeable difference. /quote] Detonation and timing pull back aggravated by ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 i have good solid 93 octane in there now. seems to be running a million times better, but i still get hesitation after warm up. i can drive the crap out of it cold and it runs spectacular but when its at ot, its not nearly as peppy and still shudders/hesitates a bit not sure whats going on, still wondering if its related to the knock sensors and if it is how can i tell, and remedy this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 cmon anybody?? know where the knock sensors are? ideas on shuddering?? did i tap out the resources already?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) cmon anybody?? know where the knock sensors are? ideas on shuddering?? did i tap out the resources already??[/quote Not by a longshot. Make sure the egr works before diving too deep. If it is "running a million times better" w/better gas, answers lie down this path. Timing,egr,errant CTS,carbonization,leaness due to weak pump etc. Knowing for sure if you have activated the knock control system w/your hotwire injection is a little difficult. I would use an automotive dwell meter to monitor injector pulse width while driving. A sudden increase in dwell coincident w/the shudder means knock control is activated. Edited February 17, 2010 by naru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) i have good solid 93 octane in there now. seems to be running a million times better, but i still get hesitation after warm up. i can drive the crap out of it cold and it runs spectacular but when its at ot, its not nearly as peppy and still shudders/hesitates a bit not sure whats going on, still wondering if its related to the knock sensors and if it is how can i tell, and remedy this Let me get this straight: You're thrashing a TURBO vehicle, one that is not known for its reliability when running its best, when its cold? That's just asking for trouble. Anyone wanna take bets on how long it's gonna take till we see a "Engine blown! Help!" thread? Seriously dude, the EA82Ts are not the most reliable engines, and it takes a lot of work to keep them up to scratch. I personally don't think I would own one again. And any kind of "spirited" driving when its still cold is going to be bad for the engine. You shouldn't thrash it before it hits operating temp. Period. When I was a bit younger and a lot stupider I killed a car by repeated cold thrashing. I learnt my lesson pretty quick. I don't even take my cars above 3,000 RPM until they're warmed up enough anymore. Edited February 17, 2010 by rxleone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagaru Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 lol you guys. i said i CAN drive it hard while cold, not that its a hobby. i made note of it to contrast the good running scenario with the bad one. i just want her back to stock. i have had a ton of turbo cars, so i know the game, watch the boost levels, premium gas, warm up cool down, etc etc.. i dont thrash her much anyway. my primary concern is that its running correctly. i always do a cool down on her, and i never just crank it up and floor it. i fire it up a bit before i go out, and then idle down the drive and gently up the street before i get to the fun 1/8th of a mile or so before i hit the highway. were talking about a very short period of time. but u can really tell theres a stark difference in performance between non ot and ot. believe it or not i spend a lot of time avoiding boost to save gas, so not to be coarse, but, id like to get the "dont drive it hard or it e's'plode" posts out of the way, and get to the bottom of it. i had plenty of cars to drive fast and could have gotten another one if i wanted, but i just wanted a nifty subaru to drive to work and back, and im enjoying it for what it is. id enjoy it alot more if i could figure out the dang shuddering when warmed up issue, lol:lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 we cleaned the tps connections, and she seems to run/boost better. anybody know how to pull codes from an 87 gl turbo? My 88 spfi has a green plug on the fire wall... can't find one on his Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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