'84 GL - bad starter & ignition

[uRabbit]

Been emailing someone who is selling an '84 GL wagon for $300. They don't know much about it, and I tried calling the person that does and left a message.

 

Anyways she said the starter went out and the ignition "key thingy" (as she called it) is broken.

 

What would this take to fix, money-wise and manpower-wise.

[GeneralDisorder]

The starter is no problem - just pickup a used or reman unit.

 

The ignition switch could be several things - maybe she means the key doesn't work, maybe she means the switch on the back of the lock doesn't work, and it's not uncommon to see burnt wiring at the connection where the ignition switch connects to the body harness. If that's the case - good chance the starter isn't even bad.

 

I would say she has no real clue what is wrong with it other than what someone that also doesn't know much has told her from looking at it. If it were me I would take a used starter with me (any starter from 82 to like 2005 will fit ), and probably an ignition switch (the part that bolts to the back of the lock), and my wireing tools. I could drive it away in 30 minutes or less if that's all that's wrong.

 

Hell - I would probably fix any burnt connection at the switch, jumper the solenoid from the positive cable with a screwdriver and be on my way in 3 minutes.

 

If it's the ignition *lock* that's broken - you'll have to pick the lock if the steering is locked. Or swap the column. Once the steering lock is taken care of, the lock assembly can be removed with 4 bolts. You would have to remove the steering wheel (no puller required on EA81's) and slip the lock off. That takes about 15 minutes. It helps to have a pair of needle nose vise grips for the ignition lock bolts.

 

GD

Edited February 7, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[uRabbit]

Sounds like too much for me. I'll wait for the guy with the '85 to get back with me.

 

While I'm here, what do you think about a Legacy AWD wagon with 180k-212k miles. There's two I'm looking at. Both are manual, at a dealership. One is '92, other is '90...?

[GeneralDisorder]

I wouldn't pay dealership prices for one, but the 90 to 94 Legacy is the most reliable Subaru ever made. I would give preference to the '92 if you are just looking for a daily as the '90/'91 is somewhare rarer so 92-94 are easier to find parts for.

 

Sounds like this will be your first Subaru?

 

Stay away from the EA82's. That's '85 to 89 GL's (except hatchback and Brat), and 90 to 94 Loyale's. If you want a reliable 4WD/AWD your best bet is either an '82 to '84 (that '84 for $300 is a good deal if it's just an ignition issue), and 90 to 94 Legacy's. '95 through '97 are ok if they have the EJ22 (pass on any phase I EJ25's).

 

I would reccomend a 92 to 94 Legacy for anyone looking for the most reliable AWD transportation you can get for the least amount of money. I buy them for less than $500. For a really nice clean one - maybe $1500 is as high as you should go. Though those are west coast prices and you can't throw a rock without hitting a gen 1 Legacy around here. Those mileage numbers are nothing - don't be scared by those. EJ22's are known for their longevity. It's not uncommon for the car to rot out before the engine dies.

 

GD

Edited February 7, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[uRabbit]

Yes, first and long awaited Subaru. It'll be replacing my '07 Honda Fit (cutting expenses) as my daily driver.

 

These ones are going for $1400-1800. But I have cash. And cash talks.

 

I really want something roomy, awd, manual, and good on gas. What better than a Subaru (or Nissan Stanza Wagon aka Prairie)? Haha.

 

I don't really have the know-how or time to fix the GL, tho I really wish I could.

[GeneralDisorder]

Those are decent prices - a bit high considering the mileage - but you can work with it.

 

Here's what you do - don't wave the cash around. Make them work for it - you want a full timing belt/tensioner/front seal/water pump job done if they don't have documentation of it recently. It's a 60k interval and even if the timing belt was done, the water pump may not have been, etc. That's $500 off the price if they can't prove it or do it.

 

Have them put it on a lift for you - inspect the brakes, and especially the axle boots and condition of the exhaust. Any bad axle boot is $250 off the price. If they won't fix it or bring the price down - walk away - not the dealer you want to do business with.

 

If the transmission gear oil and rear diff fluid haven't been changed - $100 off the price. If the coolant hasn't been flushed in the last 50k - $100 off the price.

 

Beat them up real good. Don't tell them you have cash - don't offer anything information wise till they agree to your terms in writing. They will ask you "how much do you have to spend" - tell them it's none of their business. If they know you have the money they will want to "show you something else" so they don't have to fix that car.

 

GD

Edited February 8, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[uRabbit]

Great info! What should I look for on the items you said to inspect on the undercarriage?

 

And what if they say they did all the work themselves? I noticed they had a garage and mechanic.

[GeneralDisorder]

Great info! What should I look for on the items you said to inspect on the undercarriage?

 

Look for broken axle boots - leaking grease or even one's with cracked rubber, etc. Look for good amounts of pad material left on the brakes and test drive it ON THE FREEWAY for warped rotors and badly balanced wheels. Listen for clicking around turns at slow speeds - that indicates front axle wear and near-term failure. Look at the exhaust - look for shoddy repairs and rusted sections. Check for major oil leaks at the valve cover's and at the front of the engine.

 

Check the air filter, and see that the oil filter looks recently replaced. Yank out the dipstick and make sure it's full, and isn't black like tar or smelly. Pull off the oil cap and look under it - if it looks really nasty I would pass. A bit of water/oil mix under the cap is nothing to worry about but if it looks burnt or heavily cakes it's a no-go.

 

When you drive it check that the clutch begins to grab fairly quickly off the floor - if it grabs at the top of the travel or there is very little movement of the pedal from grab to release (indicating the clutch is worn so they tightened the cable) tell them you want the clutch replaced. Doesn't matter if it's been done and they have doc (unless it's BRAND NEW). A previous owner could burn through a clutch quickly if they are hard on it.

 

And what if they say they did all the work themselves? I noticed they had a garage and mechanic.

 

They probably did/will if you make them. That's fine if their mechanic isn't a moron. Tell them you want copies of the receipts for the parts and a warantee on the work. Any dealer that doesn't keep the receipts for the parts they have installed or is unwilling to make copies - walk away.

 

GD

[GeneralDisorder]

Oh - and one other thing. Listen for bearing noise with the transmission in neutral and the clutch pedal not depressed. If you hear anything very loud it's probably the transmission input shaft bearing. That's a common failure on the Legacy 5 speed's. Just walk away if you hear that since I doubt they will want to replace the transmission to sell it to you.

 

GD

[uRabbit]

Beautiful.

 

I only have $500 cash until I get my tax returns, so I'll have to wait a bit, as my returns are already late.