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Anyways brake lines were installed last night. I just broke down and bought a double flare tool and spliced in under the back seat onto clean brake lines. I just need to wait for my oldest boy to help me bleed the brakes.

 

I just went over to the left side under the back seat and exiting through the fuel line grommet. I am assuming that the line forward of the back seat stays in reasonable condition. Guess we will see.:)

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Do you really think you can see all those fine pieces of dust?

 

i think with compressed air, and fluid under high pressure you can get it clean. and he did say clean sand.

 

there are lots of repairs that are done in a shop that are not as perfect as the factory setting and work just fine for thousands of miles. every thing from head gaskets to paint jobs.

 

and there are lots of things done on a car that are not in the repair manual. it does not mean they will not work.

 

but you suit your self. i've learned a lot while reading posts on this board and just because i have not actually done everything i have read about does not mean it is wrong.

Edited by johnceggleston
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Assuming your parking brake is off... :)

 

...first make sure that you have a good, firm brake pedal, since bleeding doesn't always get all the air the first time. If that seems okay, sometimes a switch gets stuck -- try several rapid hard applications of the brake (while stationary, you don't have to be driving) and rapping lightly on the fluid reservoir. Let us know if the problem remains.

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The only switches that turn on the brake light are the parking brake switch and the resevoir level switch. When you take the lid off of the resevoir, look down into it. There should be a bobber floating in the opening. Give it a couple pokes if it's stuck at the bottom. Make sure the filter thingy that goes in isn't blocking it from coming up.

 

Or the bobber might be part of the lid, if it has a bobber that hangs off of it and 2 wires going to the lid.

 

 

Naru: Go grab some 1/2" copper tubing. Try and bend it. After you've kinked it, go get another piece, cap one end, pack it with sand, cap the other end. Bend it to whatever shape you need, uncap it, blow the sand out and it's good.

 

It's not criminal to do that for brake lines, however it is unneccesary. Small diameter tubing is less likely to kink, so it's easier to bend.

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Naru: Go grab some 1/2" copper tubing. Try and bend it. After you've kinked it, go get another piece, cap one end, pack it with sand, cap the other end. Bend it to whatever shape you need, uncap it, blow the sand out and it's good..

 

What does that have to do w/a brake line? Try to stick to the subject at hand.

 

It's not criminal to do that for brake lines, however it is unneccesary. Small diameter tubing is less likely to kink, so it's easier to bend.

 

So merely gross negligence then?

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It has everything to do with bending tubing. Brake line is nothing more than steel tubing. So, a technique that works for bending tubing includes brake line.

 

As long as the line is clear when you install it, it's fine. The fine dust, if you didn't get it out by flushing with alcohol or brake fluid, isn't going to cause problems. It's no worse than the rust particles floating around in the fluid.

 

While you may think it "criminal" or "negligent" it's a well known practice for bending tubing, and it hasn't caused problems yet. So rather than being a blowhard about it, why not sit back and learn something rather than having a knee-jerk loudmouth reaction?

 

You're coming across as an rump roast, and it's hard for me to keep it civil but I try in the interest of keeping the board a positive atmosphere. Mabe you should try too?

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"The fine dust, if you didn't get it out by flushing with alcohol or brake fluid, isn't going to cause problems. It's no worse than the rust particles floating around in the fluid."

 

Tell that to your ABS controller.

Sounds like you need to flush your brake fluid.

 

 

It is not a well known or even acceptable practice for bending BRAKE tubing.

 

The reason I `m being such an "rump roast" about it is becauce public safety is more important than your fragile ego.

 

Nobody cares if you blow up your engine w/your crappy techniques but brakes are important.Fixing them properly is important.People are listening.

 

I`m ready to learn,if you ever do come up w/something to teach.

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Brake fluid doesn't circulate through the lines. So it's highly unlikely that any dust in the lines would make it back to the ABS pump and valves.

 

If you read my posts you'd see that I've mentioned that sand-packing isn't needed for brake tubing, but it is accepted practice for bending tubing in general. It's not a safety risk. Using compression fittings on a brake line is a safety risk. Using hose clamps to splice brake lines together with fuel injection hose is a safety risk. Putting a flat head nail in a brake line to block off the fitting when you tighten it is a safety risk. It's perfectly OK to mention that you believe it might be a safety concern, but campaining against it in a hostile manner, telling people that they're criminals and idiots, all based on you're initial reaction to the technique isn't wise.

 

The retarded thing is that I don't agree with a lot of the advise Nipper gives, but on something as insignificant as this, I've chosen to stand up for it. Hey, mabe I choose the wrong battles, but I'd say the reason I went with it was mostly because of your hostility. If your first post was "Sand-packing isn't necessary and could be a safety concern because of X." I probably would have let it lie. But "That's the stupidest idea I've ever heard" is the wrong approach. Social conduct... mabe they don't teach it under the bridge?

 

My fragile ego is so hurt I've resorted to:

User CP- edit ignore list- add member- naru

Kinda sad, but I hold minding manners in high regard. Otherwise the board would end up like Hondatech, TTORA, VWvortex or any number of other boards. There's good information to be found but you have to seach through all the petty arguments, hate, and cockfighting to find it.

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Yup, gives a nice firm pedal feel. You need to find the right nail, there's some out there that fit perfect, the head diameter is the right size for the widest part of the flare and the nail is the right diameter to fit down inside the tube. I use this trick for my woods beaters. One ford truck I had the rear lines blew out, so I used a nail up at the master cyl. Front brakes only, you could do burnouts all day long. Welded rear diff too so it left nice double stripes.

 

It's of course retarded to do this for a road going vehicle, as the speeds you're stopping from are higher so you need all your brakes. Plus, when you do hit someone, the accident investigation will turn it up and you will be done.

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And you are a self-righteous, arrogant blow-hard with the social skills of a brick. I laughed at first when I saw the comments being traded back and forth in the thread, but now I am just tired of you. It's not so much that you disagree with the information discussed here, it's that you are so damned caustic in the manner you present yourself. If you already know it all, go start your own forum and invite the rest of the ego-maniacal geniuses out there to join. You can all revell in your opinions while leaving the rest of us simpletons to live a peaceful life outside of your delusions of superiority. That's alot of big words that mean "go be an arsehole somewhere else". Check your fool pressure regulator, your head seems to be swelling.

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ATTABOY!!!! That's the spirit! Don't strain yourself though! If you get more than two synapses firing at once you might start a fire.

 

 

No worries mate.

Don`t need more than one to know that you don`t repair brakes with SAND and NAILS.

 

Thanks for the opportunity to reemphasise the point.

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