Outback steering rack or inner tie rods?

[P K]

World famous Subaru gurus,

What all goes wrong in the steering rack. I have both front wheels off the ground in my 2001 Outback H6 w/auto trans, and can move the right wheel back and forth an inch of play, with a definite clunk eminating from the inner tie rod area. The outer tie rod is tight. The left wheel does not have any play, nor clunk.

 

1. Is it definitely an inner tie rod... or is there something else to be concerned with the steering rack?

 

2. I know I need a special tool to remove inner tie rods. Is it a tough job?

 

Thanks, PK

[GeneralDisorder]

Yep - inner tie rod. Don't know about any special tool but I've never had to do one that new. All I've ever used was a large crescent wrench on the older stuff.

 

Subaru racks are built like tanks. Very rare to see a failure there and if it were the rack then both wheels would have play.

 

GD

[idosubaru]

What he said - inner tie rods are really easy to replace. No special tools needed.

[nipper]

Inner tie rod. The biggest fight you are going to have is the Inner Boots. You may want to replace them both, as they are inexpensive, and both of them are of equal age.

 

They have a locking tab which can be annoying. Getting a bite on the tie rod ends can be "interesting". Count the 1/2 rotations when you unscrew then from the outers. Compare the new ones to the old ones and make sure the threads start at the same places. If they don't (not a big deal) mark where the threads start on the new ones compared to the old ones and start counting there.

 

For the record, a bad rack (this goes for all cars) will leak out the inner tie rod boots, or have ver little boost when cold (winter), almost feel like it is binding, then get better as the car warms up. Subarus if they do go bad usually leak at the innner tie rods.

 

nipper

[GeneralDisorder]

Subarus if they do go bad usually leak at the innner tie rods.

 

Yes - I have seen them do that - still working good, but using a lot of fluid. In order for them to have any kind of play the rack or pinion gear would have to have serious amounts of wear and that just doesn't seem to occur - I've never seen or heard of it with a Subaru.

 

GD

[Fairtax4me]

Most shops use a special tool because it is VERY difficult to fit a wrench into the subframe area where the steering rack is.

 

If you can afford it, take it to an alignment shop and have them do the whole job. It will have to go there anyway even if you replace it yourself to get the alignment set correctly.

It's not a difficult job to do, but getting the new joint tight on the rack is a bit of a trick. I have one that is currently loose where it threads into the rack, it's not going anywhere because of the jam washer, but I've tightened it 3 times and it keeps loosening up again. I believe it's because I just can't get enough leverage on it to tighten it properly. There's just not enough room without removing the steering rack.

[idosubaru]

I've done a few inner tie rods and have never had a problem maintaining alignment or getting them tight and it's fairly common DIY job. The biggest pain I've had is installing the boots! If you're comfortable around mechanic work this isn't that hard to attempt. If you notice abnormal tire wear with your next rotation you can then have it aligned.

 

I can't picture why it would be hard to get them tight, do you recall what was in the way? Wondering if maybe one side is different from another?

[nipper]

I've done a few inner tie rods and have never had a problem maintaining alignment or getting them tight and it's fairly common DIY job. The biggest pain I've had is installing the boots! If you're comfortable around mechanic work this isn't that hard to attempt. If you notice abnormal tire wear with your next rotation you can then have it aligned.

 

I can't picture why it would be hard to get them tight, do you recall what was in the way? Wondering if maybe one side is different from another?

 

 

Its just where the flats line up on the tie rod. I have used colorful language on this part. It is a simple job, except for that. I have been able to hold the wheel alignment.

 

 

nipper

[Fairtax4me]

Exactly what Nipper said, its the way the flats on the rod line up. The sway bar is in the way, the control arm, the exhaust system, the subframe. You can't get a wrench on it and get a decent swing. Even the 1/8th turn at a time and flip the wrench trick doesn't do it. I resorted to a pair of channel lock pliers, but just can't keep enough grip on the case of the joint to get it tight enough. I'll take a picture next time I'm under there. I'm thinking about putting thread lock on it and see if that holds.

[logic23]

One tick i use is a pneumatic air chisel. You can chisel the old one counter clock wise to loosen it then tighten the new one up as far as you can then hit with the chisel and it will never come loose....lock tight is another option if you are worried about it coming loose

[nipper]

Exactly what Nipper said, its the way the flats on the rod line up. The sway bar is in the way, the control arm, the exhaust system, the subframe. You can't get a wrench on it and get a decent swing. Even the 1/8th turn at a time and flip the wrench trick doesn't do it. I resorted to a pair of channel lock pliers, but just can't keep enough grip on the case of the joint to get it tight enough. I'll take a picture next time I'm under there. I'm thinking about putting thread lock on it and see if that holds.

 

 

Thats what i did after i broke it loose.

 

 

nipper

[idosubaru]

I have another one to do on my 02 OBW H6 so I'll be sure to have all this in mind.

 

I've didn't have any problems tightening. Or my memory is bad, both equally plausible . Can't recall what tools I used.

[GeneralDisorder]

The trick is to use a Ford wrench. Most auto mechanic's don't own these and many don't know they even exist most likely. They are THE thing to have for large tube and pipe fitting though (the jaws open WIDE), and happen to be the right tool for this job as well. Crescent makes them in 9", 11", 15" and 18". The baby one is a really handy unit to own. It fits in the space of an 8" Crescent wrench but has the jaw capacity of about a 24" Crescent wrench.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Hand-Tools-C79H-Adjustable/dp/B000TDKE54/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

 

 

GD

Edited February 11, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[nipper]

I will remember that i have two of them as Dad's Dad was a plumber.

And a bus driver

And a fireman.

 

 

nipper

[Setright]

Actually, I have just replaced my entire rack.

 

It seemed like it was on the left tie-rod. Just like the symptoms above. And usually, a new tie-rod is the solution.

 

However, closer inspection revealed that the bearing inside the rack housing was allowing movement at the tire rod. No play on the other side.

 

 

OUCH! A new rack is an expensive item

[idosubaru]

Oh crack I think that's what I used. Mine is a plumbers wrench of some sort, not exactly that same thing, but close. Maybe that's why I had no problems?

 

As to new racks being expensive - used is the way to go. Subaru racks very rarely fail - that's why there are thousands of them for sale in junk yards, there's no demand. They're so easy to replace that even if you had to do it two times it would be way cheaper. But two failures would be extremely unlikely.

[P K]

Actually, I have just replaced my entire rack.

 

It seemed like it was on the left tie-rod. Just like the symptoms above. And usually, a new tie-rod is the solution.

 

However, closer inspection revealed that the bearing inside the rack housing was allowing movement at the tire rod. No play on the other side.

 

 

OUCH! A new rack is an expensive item

 

 

Thanks all for the advice. What Setright says here is my main concern. When looking at a new inner tie rod, I do not see where the play comes from that a new one will eliminate, and fear a rack bearing may indeed be the culprit. Any other follow on comments to this before I open it up? thanx

[nipper]

Pull back the boot and watch the tie rod as you shake the wheel. It doesnt take much play at the tie rod to make it feel like there is alot more play then it appears.

 

 

nipper

[Fairtax4me]

Thanks all for the advice. What Setright says here is my main concern. When looking at a new inner tie rod, I do not see where the play comes from that a new one will eliminate, and fear a rack bearing may indeed be the culprit. Any other follow on comments to this before I open it up? thanx

 

What? There is a ball joint on the rack end of the inner tie rod. That's what allows axial and rotational movement of the tie rod during suspension articulation. It also allows the tie rod to be turned to adjust alignment. That's where the play is.

 

[P K]

DOH?!?!?!

 

Thank you Fairtax4me for the ball joint reminder and better pic - I forgot

 

Again, thank you ALL ! I have a good-to-go game plan now !

[idosubaru]

I'm with nipper, you're going to replace somethign anyway so just pull the boot back or rip it off and check it out before you dig into it.

 

Might want to source a used rack or know where one is ahead of time just in case.

[Fairtax4me]

Actually, I have just replaced my entire rack.

 

It seemed like it was on the left tie-rod. Just like the symptoms above. And usually, a new tie-rod is the solution.

 

However, closer inspection revealed that the bearing inside the rack housing was allowing movement at the tire rod. No play on the other side.

 

 

OUCH! A new rack is an expensive item

 

I'm joining this crowd.

Pulled the drivers side boot off mine today to find out why the hell the inner tie rod was still clunking. (been three months since I replaced it, seems like almost a weekly thing. It lasts a week with no problem then starts clunking again) I've had trouble with it loosening up, expected that was all I would find, not so this time. Joint was plenty tight on the rack, had one of the techs at work look at the rack while I moved the drivers wheel to recreate the clunk it has been making. End of the rack was moving up and down about 1 - 2mm depending on position. Not leaking yet, but I did find some score marks and grease trails that seem to indicate a gouged bushing.

Got some cheapy camara phone pics that I'm uploading and gonna see if there is enough detail to show what I'm talking about.

 

So when you;re under there, grab the inner rod end right a the end of the rack and see if you can move it any up and down by hand. It may take a bit of force, but You'll hear it clunk a little if there is any movement.

 

A pic

The brown line right in the middle of the shaft is one of the grease trails. There were a few others up on top. I wiped some of that one off with my finger and there was a nice score mark in the shaft right next to the grease.

 

This pic is for Gary.

Edited February 13, 2010 by Fairtax4me

[Setright]

I should of course add that I use my car for A LOT of Trackdays / Advanced Driving course, so it does get a beating.

 

 

Of course, my 1992 Legacy had the same vertical play in the rack, and that wasn't beaten around race tracks for a living. The amount of play was minimal, and I never replaced it...car made it well past 200,000 miles without any problems.

[idosubaru]

Seems like we're seeing more steering rack failures. With EA, ER, and early/mid 90's EJ stuff I've hardly seen any failures (one leaking rack in an 80's Subaru a couple years ago is the only one I've seen). Seen quite a few late 90's and 2000's now. Another weak point on EJ's?

[GeneralDisorder]

The PS rack in my '84 wagon leaks quite a bit - but I've pounded the hell out of it off-road for years and for a long time it had bad boots because I was too poor to afford them from the dealer and didn't know any other sources till rockauto came along - I had tried a few stores but without any luck.

 

As for more failures - well it might just be due to heavier vehicles with more power, bigger brakes, etc. It's possible to punish them a lot harder with 170+ HP and twin-pot brakes than it is with 80 HP and 13" rims.

 

GD