Fun with functionality... Broken '87 GL

[DBG]

So, I have a festive thing. Parked my '87 GL one fine evening, and the following day it would not restart. I have checked fuel supply and spark, no broken timing belts, replaced coil, popped the intake off and poured a couple drops of gas into the throttle body, all sorts of things. Only error codes the ECU gives me are "crank position sensor" and "coolant temperature sensor". Though I've had nearly every failure you can think of on the few of these I've had over the years, I'm finding this one kinda disturbing. My other running '87 has been that way for quite some time with externally leaking head gaskets and all sorts of other anger issues, and the one that doesn't run is the one that I've got the closest to functional investment wise. Anybody got any ideas?

[MilesFox]

check the #5 fuse

[DBG]

Fuses are fine, both the #5 and the four wire links in the engine compartment. I'm beginning to believe it is some weird timing issue, the muffler exploded nicely when I had my housemate crank it over while I held a lighter behind what's left of the exhaust. Got a cool shrapnel hit on my shoulder too.

 

Is it hard to believe my favourite tool is a hammer?

[GeneralDisorder]

Check the rotor to make sure the screw hasn't fallen out, etc.

 

GD

[DBG]

Eliminated bad engine ground as a possibility, compression tester on the way. You are just talking about the securing screw on the rotor, ya?

[DBG]

Hmmm.... I have read many previous posts to this, does this sort of thing just occur at random? Demons? Replaced the distributor today, still on time as far as I can tell. Nothing was done to it when it wouldn't restart after a 5 hour overnight shutdown. Weirdly, I now no longer have the coolant temperature sensor error on the ECU, but I still have the crank angle sensor and now ignition switch come up in D-check mode. Without D-check connected, it blinks 6 times, which I can't find a corresponding code for. Spark is good, fuel is solidly there. I will try "airing out" the engine again later in the week and maybe try to drag start it, but have never dealt with this issue before.... Usually stuff breaks AFTER I work on it, not before. Compression tester I borrowed is now in the garbage, as it was broken. I'll get a new one of those later in the week as well.

[GeneralDisorder]

Check the timing belts - sometimes they strip teeth off and look like they are intact but things aren't in time like they are supposed to be.

 

Are you *sure* you have spark? If you have spark, fuel, and air - then something is wrong with the valve timing or ignition timing.

 

GD

[MilesFox]

plug in the green connectors to cycle the fuel pump. otherwise you want the fuel pump to come on for 2 seconds when you turn opn the key, and on any time the engine is cranking/running

 

you will hear the pump and the relay clicking when the green test plugs are connected(for diagnosing, not driving)

 

otherwise i suggest you remove the outer timing belt covers and go through the rotations to verify the timing belts are correct

 

General Disorder is correct about stripping teeth. I have had this happen to me before, and it had me stumped until i cranked the motor, but did not see the belt move.

[DBG]

I'll have to believe that it may be a timing belt issue, but it is odd that I can't even get it to pop or belch while turning it over. I know the driver's side belt is intact and turning the disty.... At any rate, I've got a good mechanic pal that is gonna have a look at it as soon as he can. I'll keep you all apprised of the good times.

[loyalelover]

i may be telling you someting you already know, but when your adjusting your timing, remember to time the driver side belt first, spin your flywheel 360degress then time the passenger side belt. if you time both side at once car wont start.

[DBG]

Okay, it gets stranger.... Haven't bolted everything back together quite yet, but it will drag start without a problem. And it will intermittently key start, or use the starter to get it rolling and then it will fire with a little coasting. Once the engine fires, it has a slightly high idle, but seems to have no other problems whatsoever. Shut down is fine, no dieseling. Is it possible the throttle body injector is fubar'd? Other thought, is it possible for the starter to fail and operate at half speed somehow? It was great for dragging the car around in first and reverse, but didn't seem to move like any other that I've had to starter drag with....

[DBG]

Further information, this might be related to the charging system, though I have no proof as of yet. It has failed a few more times, mostly at random, but will allow the starter to pull it in gear, then double clutch to start. I'm writing it off to demonic possession. I like things that make no sense.

[Nug]

Kinda thinking the ignition switch is partially fried if it will push start. Contacts melt, no actual ignition system power while engine cranks. I'd check for voltage at the coil while cranking. Or pull the coil wire and look for spark while cranking.

 

High idle might be slightly advanced timing after replacing disty.

[DBG]

Probably final post, as I've had the car up and running for about 2 weeks without the problem recurring, though with a really odd solution: I replaced the alternator with one out of another vehicle after it murdered two batteries. Both alternators bench test as good, both batteries that died did so on the old alternator within about 2 days. Vehicle is now as happy as it could be, I think, the CEL went from blinking to just being on, and the oil pressure gauge now reads at about 25psi with the engine off, but the no-start is gone and in operation the GL is as fine as ever it was. I'm strong in the belief that they might not have wanted to fuel the steel foundry furnace with orphaned children when they made that particular car....