obk25xt Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 I have a question, and I have used the search function! (love that thing!) I have an ej22/5mt d/r setup in my lifted wagon. I am going to replace the clutch as I feel like it's time, especially after the clutch smoke-show at sand lake! My question is this, can't I buy a performance clutch for say, a legacy or an impreza or basically anything that uses a 225mm (8 7/8"), 25 spline 1" shaft? I've been looking on ebay and finding some discs fairly reasonably priced that are 6/12 puck, dual friction, ceramic and organic material. I realize that some of these options may be a little overkill for the stock ej22 but I'm looking for a little more holding force than the stock ea82 disc/pp. I am going to have my flywheel resurfaced and the pp step taken down as well. Does anyone have experience with this? I would like to get some feedback and or suggestions from people who have experience with this. Thanks in advance, Spencer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 You can use any subaru disk you want. The 6spd stuff may be different but all the 5spd 4wd or AWD disks are the same. Use an XT6 pressure plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Ok, so I searched again (I guess it could be called re-search!) and found tons of info. Thanks for the reply I try not to ask questions that have already been answered, sometimes I'm a little slow in finding the correct info. Thanks to all who have traveled this path before me to prove that it can be done! I'm thinking... Re-machine ea82 flywheel to xt6 specs, lighten a few lbs. and put an aftermarket ej disc in it. The xt6 pressure plate is what I'm having difficulty finding by itself. Is the difference in clamping force due to the difference in flywheel step? Or is it actually a different pp? Would a turbo pp compare more to an n/a ea82 one or an xt6 one? Does anyone have a part # of the different pressure plates ala carte? (not in a kit!). thanks, Spencer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 i don't know answers to any of your questions - but some of the huge vendors on ebay will piece together kits for you if you call and ask them. some of us do it for timing belt kits "I'd like these two style pulleys with an idler gear and tensioner" - eventhough none of their pre-packaged kits are like that. eventhough this is across different styles, once you figure out what combination you want it might be worth a call to see if they can do the same with clutch parts since you're looking at EA, ER, and EJ stuff. i think the import experts might be one of them, i can't ever remember their names. folks like davebugs has mentioned it several times in threads regarding timing components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 For an offroad setup with big tires, keep the flywheel heavy. It will stall a lot easier if you lighten it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Just wondering, when using a XT6 pressure plate, is there any part numbers available? We didn't get the XT6 over here, but I believe the auto shops do have a listing for a 2.7l Alcyone. Same thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Now I've searched several parts manufacturer sites and am coming up with the same kit #'s for the xt6 and loyale/gl/gl10 etc. this is getting really confusing. So I'm figuring either the manufacturers I am looking up use the same kit for all applications or the difference is in the .012 of the step in the flywheel. I read in other posts some where that the clamping force is... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=94121&highlight=xt6+flywheel+specs ea82-350kg ea82t-400kg xt6-500kg Can that be because of flywheel step difference? I am doing my best to come up with some proof that the xt6 actually uses a different pressure plate. So far all I'm finding is that the only difference is in the flywheel step. Anyone have any solid info on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 nope, from the factory it's a different plate. some aftermarket suppliers use the same part (Beck/Arnley being one of them) though. there's very little gain to be had by using an EJ disc. the different materials are used so they can handle heat better. But if you're still using a relatively weak pressure plate, you won't have any more holding power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 So I just went ahead and ordered an xt6 clutch kit from rock auto, $193 for a rhinopac kit. Should be here in a few days. I also took my flywheel into a buddy who works at a tranny shop to have it surfaced and machined to xt6 specs, he may take another couple thousanths off it also we'll see when I go to pick it up. I'll post measurements when I get everything home, and results after I get it all together again. Also going to pick up a vlsd tomorrow woohoo! And another rear disc brake setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) So, the "extra couple thousanths" he was gonna take off ended up being more like 30..... Now my step measures 0.785, I do not recommend doing this!! Everything works but my clutch cable is adjusted almost as tight as it will go and i can only push the pedal down halfway before resistance. I will cut some .030" shimstock into washer shapes and shim the pressure plate out to correct this problem. Car drives fine like this, but it bothers me the small amout of pedal I actually have and the amount of temsion that the pressure plate springs are under. I'll update when I ad shim to the pressure plate, Probly won't be for a week or maybe 2, if anyone sees some reason why i shouldnt shim there please speak up. I've been thinking about it and can't see a reason not to. On another note, I am now running 2wd wagon shocks with 4wd wagon springs in the rear. The only difference i can see in them is the spring perch is in a different spot? They appear to be the same length overall. Basically the spring perch is the same height as the pre-loyale rear shocks adjusted all the way up. I tried the honda spring thing and they were WAY to stiff for my liking. I only had about an inch of uptravel and I dont like that. Thanks, Spencer Edited March 4, 2010 by obk25xt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 shimming the pressure plate out from the flywheel will make it worse. you'll need to replace the flywheel to fix the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 No it won't, no I don't. He took too much material from the surface the pressure plate mounts to. In essence all I'm doing is putting it back (the material). I'm going to try an install the shims one at a time thru the starter hole, that will lead to some swear words Im sure and possibly removal of the engine, we'll see. Thanks, Spencer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 surface the pressure plate mounts to :confused: that's odd.....OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 (edited) The reason I had him take material off was to make the flywheel step the same as the xt6. I was very clear when I explained to him what I wanted, was telling him all the numbers and such and he nodded and smiled like he understood. The price was right! Ten bucks! Just goes to show, you get what you pay for! Other than the measurement being off he did a wonderful job, everything is surfaced and even. Just not EXACTLY what I ordered. Oh well, live and learn, on the plus side now I have the ability to adjust pressure plate to flywheel distance based on the amount of shim I install. If there are any millwrights on the board they can appreciate this line of thinking. Edited March 5, 2010 by obk25xt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 I'll update when I ad shim to the pressure plate, Probly won't be for a week or maybe 2, if anyone sees some reason why i shouldnt shim there please speak up. I've been thinking about it and can't see a reason not to. JUst make sure you don't space them up "off" of the locating dowels. .030 should be fine. On another note, I am now running 2wd wagon shocks with 4wd wagon springs in the rear. The only difference i can see in them is the spring perch is in a different spot? They appear to be the same length overall. Basically the spring perch is the same height as the pre-loyale rear shocks adjusted all the way up. I tried the honda spring thing and they were WAY to stiff for my liking. I only had about an inch of uptravel and I dont like that. Thanks, Spencer OEM Subaru 2wd rear struts sould be physically longer by about 2 inches. But alot of aftermarket Strut makers seem to be splitting the difference, and making one replacement for all. What I did was this. Purchase a new set of rear struts (or scavenge an extra set of old ones) The new struts come with the spring perch not installed on the body yet. It is a collar that slides down and seats on ridges on the strut body. So first thing, use the perch from your old struts, and slide it UPSIDEDOWN. Then, install the new perch ontop of that "rightside" up. This yields a good bit of lift, and preloads the springs. Does reduce total uptravel a hair......but not anything to notice......and having something limiting uptravel is good on these rearends after a lift....since the bumpstops are rendered useless with the lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now