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98 Legacy Outback possible cracked headgasket


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I have a 98 legacy outback, that has about ~120,000 miles. Manual transmission.

 

I have had the radiator and hoses, and thermostat replaced. The over heating continued. My mechanic, who I trust, tells me that it is likely the head gasket going. Over heating is more frequent now and generally starts when I am stopped at a light, and then temperature goes back down while driving. Also, so far there is no detectable coolant in my oil.

 

A) Do you think this is the head gasket or is my mechanic wrong?

 

Assuming this is the head gasket, we do not have a subaru dealer in my city, or within a 30 mile drive, so a dealer fix is not an option. No engine repair shops here will touch it to open up the engine. My mechanic was also unable to find a used or aftermarket engine to replace mine.

 

I love my car, but it appears that getting rid of it is my only option. Here are my options as I see them. If you know of another reasonable option, please let me know.

 

1) Attempt to trade in my car at a dealership with hopes of getting some trade in value. But do I tell them about the overheating problem? What is a fair trade in value for a car in this condition?

 

3) Post an add on Craigs-list that fully explains the problem and I sell the car, as is, to someone who might want to fix the car as a side project. If I do this what price should I ask for starters? I haven't been able to find a decent valuation of my car online, given the possibility of a cracked head gasket.

 

Thanks for any and all help it is gratefully appreciated.

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1. Have your mechanic do the combustion gases in coolant test. It can either be a $50 chemical test or they can use a gas analyzer if they have one. If it does not pass, its most likely the HGs.

 

2. I've gone through this exact issue and it turns out that CCR engines has the most complete rebuilt engine. If you can find an used one or a JDM engine you would want to do a bunch of work on it before you install it (HGs, Water Pump, Front Seals, Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idlers, etc). After I priced that all out it was a better deal to get a rebuilt from CCR engines in Denver. They specialize in Subaru engines only.

 

http://www.ccrengines.com

 

it would seem that at 120k you could do the headgasket replacement (with the usual "while you are in there" stuff). Will your mechanic do that job?

 

Thats my $0.02.

Edited by Mike104
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a: Check in coolant overflow tank for oily residue and bubbles when it's getting hot...that's another tell-tale sign.

SEARCH on here, but in general the HG repair runs about $1500 (@ least what I've read).

 

KBB.com lists that as $4400 in Good condition for Private Party (non-Limited). A dealer may give you $3K Trade-In, w/out the HG issue. So, expect 1/2 that.

 

I've bought 3 OBs in the last 2 years w/HG or other 2.5 engine issues. I paid between $1500-$1900 for them, and I live in the what I'd call Subie Central up in the Pacific NW.

 

It does sound like getting it fixed, and fixed right, may be a challenge, so unloading it either thru the dealer or CL may be your best option. You'll likely get a few hundred more thru CL, but your market area makes that a tough call.

 

GL,

Td

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the only disclosure needed at the sell, or trade, is that you do or don't have receipts for previous headgasket repair on that car. It is a car model and engine that had a 90% failure rate of headgaskets, give or take %, and anyone who is looking at buying or selling it will be wanting evidence directed to previous records. If you have no records of HG repair, expect bottom dollar. If you have records expect more. bottom dollar on a car without the repairs previously made are less than 1500.

 

 

Please feel free to use the search button, and use EJ25 HG as a search.

 

At 120k, i would say replace BOTH sides of headgaskets and only use OEM from the Subaru dealer gasket, no matter who replaces them. You do NEED to do both sides with this engine at the same time, for any good results. also, the Tbelt, water pump and all pulleys will be needed at the same time, for PROPER longterm results if you keep the car for a few years. if you plan to pass along the plague to others, than, dont spend a dime

Edited by bheinen74
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make sure your cooling fans work...

 

+ one

 

If it cools off when moving, but heats up when stopped, it could be the fans are not coming on. Either the fan is bad or the Coolant Temp Sensor is failing or erroneous.

 

Also, if the hoses and thermo have been changed......the system needs burped properly to get all air out or it will have bubbles and overheat.

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Thanks for all the thorough and helpful suggestions.

 

The cooling fan definitely works, I should have mentioned that in the original post.

 

Thanks for the tip about the coolant not getting in the oil. Now that you mention it, I think I remember the coolant looking darker than it should. Probably due to the exhaust getting into it. I'll check that out when I get home today.

 

I'm also going to check into the rebuilt engines, but I think I will still have a problem finding someone here to actually install it. I don't have the means to do it on my own, or the knowledge.

 

Unfortunately my mechanic doesn't do engine work anymore, and the shops in Baton Rouge that do engine work, told him they wouldn't touch a Subaru. Therefore, I'm stuck with the car as it is.

 

I'm also going to look up some of the other posts about similar cars with my problem on here and see what they have to say.

 

Thanks again.

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yeah tstat needs to be Subaru, the aftermarkets are flimsy.

 

there's a special vent-release cap you can install on the radiator to keep it from pressurizing and overheating. it'll at least allow you to drive the car without overheating for quite some time and no worries about being stranded.

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