OK, Let's Nail Down This PURGE SOLENOID Thing

[Tank]

I have an '88 GL Wagon, FI, non-turbo (5-speed for those who care). The car runs like crap at low RPM's.

 

I got it from a guy I work with. The CEL has been on since before HE got the car. It's Code 34 (I think that's the one...whichever code is for the Vacuum Purce Control Solenoid.)

 

Now I haven't bought a new one, but I've bought SEVEN used ones, and I'm thinking the solenoid isn't the issue. I've changed the fuel injection wiring harness....no improvements.

 

I've done searches here, and I see that I can stick a resistor in there, or pinch this off, or that, but how do I NEATLY bypass (or disable) this purge system, shut off the CEL (but leave it still operational for OTHER systems), and get the car running better?

 

If there is no such magic wand for this, how do I get the car to run better?

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

[MilesFox]

remove the vacuum line from the EGR valve and plug it see if that helps. maybe the egr is stuck open, when it should be closed at idle

[GeneralDisorder]

If you remove or disable the purge solenoid then you may as well remove the entire charcoal canister, etc and all it's associated lines and tubes.

 

You can install a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor right near the ECU between the pin for the purge/EGR solenoid and ground.

 

You can remove all the lines for the EGR valve as well as the valve itself if you do the resistor on both.

 

GD

[Tank]

I forgot to mention: the purge valve must be open, because when there is not much vacuum (like cruising on the highway) the HVAC system doesn't have enough reserves to keep the vents open. So if you're cruising down the interstate at 70 mph, you can't have the heater on your feet, or have the windshield on defrost, because the system can only blow out the vents into your face.

 

 

The ultimate solution would be to fix the thing.

[GeneralDisorder]

I forgot to mention: the purge valve must be open, because when there is not much vacuum (like cruising on the highway) the HVAC system doesn't have enough reserves to keep the vents open. So if you're cruising down the interstate at 70 mph, you can't have the heater on your feet, or have the windshield on defrost, because the system can only blow out the vents into your face.

 

That's because you have a bad or missing check valve between the accumulator tank and the manifold or leaks in the HVAC control system. Has nothing to do with vacuum leaks as the system doesn't *use* vacuum on a constant basis if there are no leaks and a check valve in place.

 

The ultimate solution would be to fix the thing.

If the goal is trying to lighten your wallet for no apparent reason at all, then yeah I suppose so.

 

GD

[Gloyale]

33 ohm resistor for the win!

 

of course, a light bulb works too.....makes a great fake "load" to simulate the solenoid.

[Joenasnj]

Where can i get a 33ohm 5 watt resistor at? looked at radioshack and no luck.

 

If you remove or disable the purge solenoid then you may as well remove the entire charcoal canister, etc and all it's associated lines and tubes.

 

You can install a 33 Ohm, 5 watt resistor right near the ECU between the pin for the purge/EGR solenoid and ground.

 

You can remove all the lines for the EGR valve as well as the valve itself if you do the resistor on both.

 

GD

[Yo'J]

herehttp://lmgtfy.com/?q=33+ohm+5+watt+resistor

[Travisthedrumer]

herehttp://lmgtfy.com/?q=33+ohm+5+watt+resistor

 

That was awesome.

[hooziewhatsit]

If you put in the resistor and the light still doesn't go out, it's likely a blown transistor in the ECU.

 

On my 88 GL, I've done everything I know to get the EGR code to go away. The only thing left is in the ECU. Still runs just fine though.

[smallwwb]

OK so I want to tag onto this purge solenoid question.

I just checked codes on my 88 DL and it said 35-purge solenoid valve, and 24- air control valve.

I've read posts about not idling properly, expecially at startup, and I have that problem. I have to punch the gas like on an old carbureted car and rev it a bit at startup, then it idles fine.

I was told you can bypass these systems and the car will run fine. My car is old, has over 200k and will probably die soon anyway, so I don't want to throw a bunch of money at emissions systems.

If, as GD said, you take the whole purge solenoid, hoses, charcoal canister, etc. out, will the car still run fine? How do you bypass the IAC, and is that okay?

[987687]

OK so I want to tag onto this purge solenoid question.

I just checked codes on my 88 DL and it said 35-purge solenoid valve, and 24- air control valve.

I've read posts about not idling properly, expecially at startup, and I have that problem. I have to punch the gas like on an old carbureted car and rev it a bit at startup, then it idles fine.

I was told you can bypass these systems and the car will run fine. My car is old, has over 200k and will probably die soon anyway, so I don't want to throw a bunch of money at emissions systems.

If, as GD said, you take the whole purge solenoid, hoses, charcoal canister, etc. out, will the car still run fine? How do you bypass the IAC, and is that okay?

The IACV is unrelated. And that is worth fixing.

On my car, if I have the IACV unplugged it dies at or near WOT. It doesn't even stumble, just dies. So I'd advise fixing that.

 

I too have the code for the purge thing, and for EGR. I've always thought it was weird because the EGR works fine as does the purge system. At least, from what I can tell. Everything goes on and off and opens and closes like it's supposed to... runs fine though. I fixed it by putting a piece of tape over the CEL. cheapest fix ever!

[GeneralDisorder]

You can removal all the Purge and EGR hardware and it will not affect engine operation even if you don't add the resistor to take care of the code.

 

Your problem is associated with your idle air controller (IAC) and you should replace that with one from a junk yard car - should take care of the idling issues.

 

200k is really not that high for an EA82..... sadly with regular oil changes the long block on these engines is typically good for 300k or more. Other stuff may cause you problems and you might need a head gasket replaced along the way (typical) but they are stubbornly difficult to outright kill. Thus why so many are still on the road.

 

GD

[987687]

I may rip it all out to make it look less like I spilled my spaghetti dinner under my hood...

I don't really care about the CEL much. It's on for a ton of stupid reasons. It seems the ea82 computer isn't overly happy about running the ea81. But it does just fine...

Edited September 29, 2010 by 987687

[smallwwb]

So how does one successfully go about taking out the purge solenoid? I want to make sure I don't have any vacuum issues when finished.

Can the IAC be cleaned and/or refurbished? I am currently in Arizona and can't seem to locate any wrecking yards with old Subarus; more of a PNW car. All they seem to drive down here is old air-cooled VWs- funny since it gets really hot

If I can't fix the IAC right away, it should be fine until I get back to Washington in a few months right?

[GeneralDisorder]

If the ECU is detecting a problem then it's electrical in nature so no amount of cleaning will fix the IAC now.

 

Should be fine till you get back here or just post on the wanted section for a good one. The IAC really only is needed when the engine is cold.

 

GD

[987687]

If the ECU is detecting a problem then it's electrical in nature so no amount of cleaning will fix the IAC now.

 

Should be fine till you get back here or just post on the wanted section for a good one. The IAC really only is needed when the engine is cold.

 

GD

 

With the IAC unplugged at over 3/4 throttle my engine dies. Nobody else seems to experience that issue.... Is it indicative that something else major is wrong?