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Ej swap here we go a wiring


Yo'J
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I had the same problem, but still haven't figured out the switched power yet...just been lazy and pulling the battery ground. Let me know if you find a solution for this, or I'll do the same if I get to it first. Glad you're up and runnin' now, feels great eh!?!

 

:banana:

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For Tach signal, and Fuel pump leads.......easy way is to use the original FPCU connector (six wires, mounted by hoodlatch, 3 diamond logo)

 

This is the box that controls the fuel pump. It is made to only send out power to the pump when it gets an ignition pulse (senses engine RPM) It get's the signal from the Yellow wire in this connector.....hook your EJ tach wire to this connector....it backfeeds the signal to your tachometer.

 

The Blue/red stripe wire in that connector goes out to the fuel pump......wire in you're power from the EJ pump relay to here. Easiest place to tap into that wire.

 

You can also use that connector for your IG. Switched 12v source, and for a place to tap into a ground wire as well.

 

 

For the switched power I was thinking this^^, and if it didn't work, a relay from here to send a straight fused battery constant, would. Being the fuel pump circuit, It should not experience a voltage drop while cranking, right? I don't know till testing it.

I'll bet thats why a kill switch would be so easy, you are all ready running a new line. It could be the Power Button on the dash.

 

It was your thread that got me spark there SoobieDoo!

 

I will be so pleased to get this thing on the road. I still need a lot, but its in motion. I feel much more confident in my EJ skills now I'll tell ya!:rolleyes:

Edited by Yo'J
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For the switched power I was thinking this^^' date=' and if it didn't work, a relay from here to send a straight fused battery constant, would. Being the fuel pump circuit, It should not experience a voltage drop while cranking, right? [/quote']

 

Did you leave the EJ Ignition and fuel pump relays in the harness? Or chop them out?

 

My most recent swap only required me to connect a Battery volts wire and an Ig switched volts wire and bolt on the ground to the engine to get it to run. (OP, TEMP, TACH, CEL, VSS.....are each another story:rolleyes:)

 

I am learning though that If you leave more of the original EJ harness intact, it seems to make it alot easier.

 

I basically didn't touch any Yellow or Yellow/red wires........left them all hooked up, and put power to the yellow one and ....VROOM.

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I mailed off my harness so I didn't do any chopping, I might do it myself next time.(Now! I could use some extra power features!) I used both sets of relays ea and ej so I think I might be using up a bit more power than normal maybe. When i tested the ignition switched power while cranking it would fluctuate and read about 9v, I dunno, its less than ten and bounced. Thats where I started, the ignition switch, I soldered three leads from there and it equaled, FAILURE! I think I'm just gonna go for a power button and run a new circuit, seems safest.:rolleyes: I'll still test out that circuit, I do want to know if I can pull power from there.

 

Does a brake petal button work for the neutral switch? Continuity when unpressed, or do I have it backwards again? I don't understand this part of electronic wiring very well. I noticed on the 95 and later ej you power the switch, but I still don't understand the switching actions. (Funny, reminds me of some old saying like "blinded by your own ignorance" or something. Its right in front of me and yet I cannot see!)

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Reverse engineering at its finest!

 

The thing is the coil was powered! The ecu didn't have enough power to send a signal to the ignitor so it could then tell the coil to fire, BUT, only when it was cranking.

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I ended up getting switched power from the black wire/ignition switch. Never even bothered to test it with the MM, assuming it was just ground. Water temp is real nice just hooked direct to the small, one prong temp sensor. No resistors needed, and Im getting nearly 1/4 on the gauge when fully warm...thanks Gloyale!!! :headbang:

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I just installed a new fuse box with room and mounts for three relays and four fuses:banana: Fount it in an old mitsubishi, fits just perfect! Its like 2"by 4" and fit right by the battery! I got a switch and ran new power for my switched source, so you can crank it all you want but without the switch it wont start, or turn off. I thought I had my PS lines routed fine but they are way forward into the exhaust pipe area with out much room to bend out of the way unfortunately. Looks like it time for gwilsons approach and get new lines.

 

Scoobiedoo, You driving yours yet? I CANT WAIT!!!!!:banana::banana:

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