Another EJ swap wiring question

[Mr. Brat]

I did some searching around here and didn't find what I was looking for. I have both an EJ18 and EJ22. The 22 is still in the car. Plan to put the intake and the harness from the legacy onto the 18 til the 22 gets built. So I pulled the dash and the engine harnesses out and thinned them down (so I think I did). I wanted to start the engine to make sure I did this right. So I plugged everything back in (eninge harness to the SMJ and ran the wires to the ECU as per Numbcux's write up). I am not using a key as I am using a remote starter due to thinning. It does not start nor is the fuel pump turning on. I can wire it directly to the battery and it works fine. So I brought out the multimeter and found that the main relay is getting power but is not powering out. Thus is why I think I am not getting spark. I may be wrong. I powered the duty side of the relay (click) and still no spark. Also if I am thinking right when the main relay is active or powered shouldn't the fuel pump relay also be active? Is there somewhere that I may have overlooked where there needs to be a "key in on postition?" I am lost on where to go with this.

 

Note:

95 impreza EJ18 motor

93 legacy EJ22 motor and harnesses

the legacy runs good, drove it into the shop last night.

[Gloyale]

double check all the grounds and power supply for the ECU

 

Also check on grounds for the IG relays.

 

Fuel Pump relay won't cycle until ECU sees CAS signal....so if you are missing something in the wiring, you won't be getting signal hence no Fuel.

 

But you can test theFuel pump circuit by connecting the test connectors, the pump should cycle on/off in time with the CEL flashing when key ON

 

 

 

Just a thought? Since you know the legacy ran fine........Pull the whole harness now. Have faith that when you reinstall it you will be able to get it wired up. Any work and worry and frustration you spend now will just be taken out, further stripped, and added to a new car. You can struggle to get it to run now, but then you're gonna pull it the rest of the way, and have to do most of the same run around again. That will be the time to make it run when it will count. Do the work once.

 

Again, have faith that you will be able to climb that mountain when it comes.

[Mr. Brat]

Gloyale- I figure I am just missing something small and simple. Pulled all the harnesses out and figured since the car was still there and motor intact I would see if it would still fire. I think I made the mistake when I cut out all the ignition wires being I would use that stuff from the brat. So with that being said, the main relay isnt seeing the "key on" and the only power that is being supplied to the whole car is 12v from the battery that was in Numbcux's updated write-up.

[Mr. Brat]

So I worked on this harness tonight and got it fired up. Found that I needed the "key on" like I had thought that went to pin 12 of B58 plug on the ECU. After this I found that my fuel pump relay was not working right. With the power to the ECU and in "ON" position, I have power going in on 3 pins but no power going out to the fuel pump. I can take a jumper wire to the green/black wire which comes from the ECU and activate the relay to power the pump. With the car running with the jumper wire to the pump I am getting battery voltage at green/black from ECU, yellow from ECU and main power. I looked up the info on Alldata and it said

"OPERATION-

The fuel pump relay operates for a few seconds when the ignition is turned ON. The relay only remains engaged if the ECU detects the engine running, or the starter operating. Power is supplied to the relay when the key is ON. The ECU controls relay ground."

I have the 3 grounds that were left when the harness was thinned out plus I put in another ground so 4 total. Any point in a direction would be great. Or would it be better for me to just do the swap and get the ignition in the works to siplify this whole thing?

[phantomcrooner]

Yep,

I am at the same point, can jump the fuel pump to ground and it works, but otherwise it wont.

Help!, please?

 

You know what, never-mind, I'll just run the pump ground to a toggle under the dash so that it will be another anti theft device and save my flipping headache, unless someone knows how to solve the issue.

Edited March 4, 2010 by phantomcrooner

[Mr. Brat]

From what I have read online. The ECU controls that ground for the fuel pump relay. Maybe check your grounds? Maybe I should recheck my grounds? I think I am just going to do the swap and figure it all out then. I deleted all the ignition wires so its a pain in the butt to track everything. Thats a good idea for the toggle switch ground anti theft. I am going to wire my clutch switch threw the rear defroster button (brats dont have rear defrost). Being it will look factory nobody would be able to figure it out.

[phantomcrooner]

From what I have read online. The ECU controls that ground for the fuel pump relay.

 

 

I am going to wire my clutch switch threw the rear defroster button (brats dont have rear defrost). Being it will look factory nobody would be able to figure it out.

 

I have found the same thing, but am not sure why the system isn't sending a ground signal.

 

Nice touch on the defrost button.

[Mr. Brat]

So I spent a few hours trying to pin out the relay to figure out what was going on. I found that the ECU was not sending the fuel pump relay that ground like it should be. I rechecked all my grounds and even added a few (on cut off splices) for good measure. I still get battery voltage at 3 wires for the fuel pump.

[Numbchux]

your ECU probably isn't turning on. check and recheck all the power wires. all grounds should be made through the engine block.

 

 

I have also heard of a bad crank angle sensor allowing the ECU to come on, but it won't prime the fuel pump.

 

 

was this engine in known-running condition? is the CEL coming on?

[Mr. Brat]

I had all the grounds reconnected to the original places both on the block and next to the strut towers. The car ran great with no check engine light at all. The ECU only needs the 2 power wires correct? The main power supply (ignition activated) and the memory right?

[mysoob]

I did some searching around here and didn't find what I was looking for. I have both an EJ18 and EJ22. The 22 is still in the car. Plan to put the intake and the harness from the legacy onto the 18 til the 22 gets built. So I pulled the dash and the engine harnesses out and thinned them down (so I think I did). I wanted to start the engine to make sure I did this right. So I plugged everything back in (eninge harness to the SMJ and ran the wires to the ECU as per Numbcux's write up). I am not using a key as I am using a remote starter due to thinning. It does not start nor is the fuel pump turning on. I can wire it directly to the battery and it works fine. So I brought out the multimeter and found that the main relay is getting power but is not powering out. Thus is why I think I am not getting spark. I may be wrong. I powered the duty side of the relay (click) and still no spark. Also if I am thinking right when the main relay is active or powered shouldn't the fuel pump relay also be active? Is there somewhere that I may have overlooked where there needs to be a "key in on postition?" I am lost on where to go with this.

 

Note:

95 impreza EJ18 motor

93 legacy EJ22 motor and harnesses

the legacy runs good, drove it into the shop last night.

 

 

 

can you help me find info on adapterplates for swapping a ej 2.2 into a 88 wagon

[Mr. Brat]

If you are still going to use your EA82 trans, I bought my plate from Scott. http://sjrlift.com Also can have him drill your flywheel or just purchase the kit from him.