mr.radon Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 When I rebuilt my '98 EJ25 engine I also changed the tranny lube and cleaned the magnet. I made an extension to my long neck funnel so that I could fill the tranny from the bottom up. Worked great! After the rebuild I've noticed that my mileage has gone up about 3mpg! However, durring the rebuild I could not get the two plugs out of the rear diff. I put some penatrant on the bolts, and every few days since then. Now several weeks have passed and I have well penatrated bolts. Using either my impact wrench or three foot breaker bar the bolt is not breaking free. (only trying the top plug) Anyone have any suggestions? Is one brand of penatrant better then others? What worked for you? The lube that poured out of the tranny looked like it had not been changed since the car was built. So I'm worried the rear diff is in the same condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5_IMP Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 I had the same problem recently. I used CRC "Freeze-Off" penetrant, and then a torch to heat it up, while tapping on it with a wrench. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Here's what worked for me--see post #3 in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78228&highlight=rear+differential+plugs Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Here's my method With the car on the ground Place your breaker bar in the plug with the bar out to the passenger side(right) of the diff. Then place the head of a floor jack under the end of the handle and jack. Make sure you have a good bar and some eye protection in case, but if careful this has always worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbianchi Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 I used a 1/2 craftsman rachet and floor jack , on my legacy I also used a 3inch extension with a large pipe wrench on the extension a floor jack on the rachet lifting the rear of the car off the ground. now staying out of harms way i had to use my foot on the pipe wrench and pushh untill the plug let loose, geeeesh that was tight, the extension ended up twisted, just snug it up on reinstall....G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 If you can't get them out remove the rear cover, drill completely through the center of the plug and use a pipe-nipple extractor on it. Or just drill out the plug enough to run an NPT tap into the remaining portion and install brass plugs. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 I'm with GD if you can't get it out swapping the rear plate is a simple option. Is this for an EJ? I might have an EJ rear diff sitting around, if I do I'll send you the rear plate. I think you're betting on really good odds that the oil is old too RG. That is crazy, I haven't had one that tight yet weird considering us rust-belters have all the other corroded/stuck/rusted bolt issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 install brass plugs. GD What material are they, Alu i hope not Was planning to change all three 4 oils at next service myself (engine, trans, diff and PS) But if it goes out that hard I might have it done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Yeah Gary I got pissed yesterday. Been applying penatrant every 2-3 days for a few weeks and no go. The impact wrench I have is a high torque model and has never failed me in all these years. I'll remove the cover and try the jack method. I've used that in the past. If not I'll contact you about a rear cover. THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 What material are they, Alu i hope not The cover is but the plugs are steel. Thus drilling through them and then using an extractor or tapping and replaceing them is easily done. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 (edited) how ever are they like RWD cars, to remove the cover do you have to remove the diff?????? Edited March 3, 2010 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 I think rverdoold is concerned about the corrosion of brass and aluminum together. The aluminum is the loser in that little battle. Steel and Al just bond together (as we all have noticed if we are reading this thread) but copper or brass and Al eats the Al. May not be an issue in a dry climate where they never put salt on the road. Retapping for an iron NPT pipe plug with antiseize should work just as well, and wind up with a situation no worse than the original arrangement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 the one time i had my rear diff fluid changed, the guy tightened the plug with a 24", maybe a 36", breaker bar with 'omph'. of course the car was head high on the lift and he just cranked 90 degrees after it was tight. almost no way to get that out with the car on the ground or even jack stands with or without corrosion. and if you put it on ramps, there is the chance you knock it over with all the tugging. pay someone to change the fluid and then have them apply anti-seize to the plugs. maybe anti-seize and teflon tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 the guy tightened the plug with a 24", maybe a 36", breaker bar with 'omph'. of course the car was head high on the lift and he just cranked 90 degrees after it was tight. almost no way to get that out with the car on the ground or even jack stands with or without corrosion. and if you put it on ramps, there is the chance you knock it over with all the tugging. I guess he wanted your repeat business... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Suggest you remove the top (fill) bolt first, before the bottom bolt. Nothing worse then draining the lube, but can't get the top bolt loose to refill the dif. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 All right after heating it up just a tad and using my 3 foot cheater bar and a bottle nose she gave way. Top one first then the bottom one. The bottom was on tighter. Am in the process of draining now and it looks like yuk. About 1" low. Well, one less job to worry about. Thanks for the advice. I had a little more confidence given I had a possible replacement cover in my back pocket. Thanks for the insurance policy Gary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.radon Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Part of my problems were due to this rear diff shield that covered the diff. It was PACKED full of mud. I'm not putting it back in, if anyone wants this diff guard and the hardware to install it be my guest, otherwise its heading to the recycle heap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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