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So has anybody ever made a non EGR motor have an EGR?


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I think it would be better to cut the ignition. If you cut the fuel pump, the engine could misfire as it runs out of fuel and set a cylinder misfire code.

 

The coil has a common +12 wire you could interrupt. I'm always a bit nervous about switching an inductive load on a running car, due to voltage spikes from back EMF. Worst case, you'd fry your ECM.

 

Nathan

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I think it would be better to cut the ignition. If you cut the fuel pump, the engine could misfire as it runs out of fuel and set a cylinder misfire code.

 

The coil has a common +12 wire you could interrupt. I'm always a bit nervous about switching an inductive load on a running car, due to voltage spikes from back EMF. Worst case, you'd fry your ECM.

 

Nathan

 

what we really want ot do is keep power to the ecu when you turn the key off so the im monitors stay ready. and until some one tries this with the scangage on a 96 manual lego we will not know if the idea holds water.

 

for instance, if the ecu stays on but every powered? sensor goes dead, what happens to the im monitors?

or if the ecu stays on do you get lights on the dash? probably not but until tested........

Edited by johnceggleston
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I think it would be better to cut the ignition. If you cut the fuel pump, the engine could misfire as it runs out of fuel and set a cylinder misfire code.

 

The coil has a common +12 wire you could interrupt. I'm always a bit nervous about switching an inductive load on a running car, due to voltage spikes from back EMF. Worst case, you'd fry your ECM.

 

Nathan

That worst case is the main reason I never considered trying this. I want that ECU, plus youd have to come up with a manual switch to the turn the car off. The emissions guy isnt going to go for that... UNLESSS, if you wire the ECU straight to the battery. And hopefully the way the car is wired from the factory the igntion switch would cut power to the coil to shut it down. Going to have to look at some wiring diagrams because finding an intake manifold doesnt appear to be as easy as I had hoped.

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Confirmed. Set out this morning. Not ready for emissions. After about 50 mins of driving, before I stopped I checked again. Emissions ready. So I found a hill. Stalled, did a rolling start. And the ECU was still ready.

 

If this is the case - I'd go with leaving power to the ECU as well. Wire it in such a way that it's switched power - a switch that you'll only use once a year (or whenever you have emissions). Make the ECU constantly powered, leaving the switch on for those days. Then off the rest of the year.

 

Should just be one wire - battery to ECU with a switch in between. Stereo and other components have constant power to for memory, etc. You can just tap one of those lines behind the stereo. two tapping connectors, find two wires and install a switch.

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Turning off the key might kill ignition anyway with the ECU powered, I'm not sure if the ignition gets its power from a solenoid that's controlled by the ignition switch. If I have time I may play with keeping the ECU powered, but my state doesn't do emissions, and my car is exempt anyway. so...

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Okay so after looking into my wiriing diagrams, theres one main power wire shared between teh coil, fuel pump relay, and the ECU. If I did this I would take that one wire going straight to the ECU and run it to fused constant 12v for when I go get the emissions test done. The only thing I'm wondering is when they turn teh key off and the car shuts down which it will cause the coil and fuel pump are still wired to the key, will the emissions computer be able to tell that my ECU was never powered off and therefore give me an automatic fail?

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where do you go for emissions?? im also from watertown ct and have brought a loyale with the check engine light on to montambalts on thomaston ave for emmissions and it passed no problem. they didnt even mention the light being on... ironically, i also did this exact same swap that your talking about. 97 OBW 2.5 w/egr and installed a 2.2 out of a 96 lego w/o egr. i brought mine thru emissions with the 2.5 with bad headgaskets and it passed. havent had to bring it thru yet with this setup.

i wonder if you paid the 20 bux if they would test it even thou it wasnt due for testing yet.. just to see if it would pass??

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What year was that loyale? I'm pretty sure they're pre OBD2 and thats why it would pass with the CEL on. And did you change the computer on that 97? Cause I'd assume if you still had teh 97 computer in the car then you'll get a code having no EGR...

Edited by Gsir08
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yeah, i get the egr code in the obw.. doesnt really bother me. the loyale was a 92, or 93 i think... im pretty cool with the people at montambaults i should stop in and ask them if they plug into the computer or not.

i went to chase parkway after the swap to see if they could re-program the car to not look for egr. they said no. i dont know if it will pass or not when it comes due for emissions. on another thread here, someone said to ground out plug 81 or 82 (IIRC) on the computer and that should get rid of the code. i havent tried it yet. another thing mentioned in that thread was to splice the egr sensor into the harness before the main plug on the engine and that may rid the code, but again havent tried any of these yet. i just finished my swap a couple months ago. and not due for emissions for another year or so.

but hey, if you figure a way to trick the car, even if its a temporary switch for the computer to get it thru emissions, let us know, or me atleast :) so i can avoid the problem down the road.

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That worst case is the main reason I never considered trying this. I want that ECU, plus youd have to come up with a manual switch to the turn the car off. The emissions guy isnt going to go for that... UNLESSS, if you wire the ECU straight to the battery. And hopefully the way the car is wired from the factory the igntion switch would cut power to the coil to shut it down. Going to have to look at some wiring diagrams because finding an intake manifold doesnt appear to be as easy as I had hoped.

 

Does the inspector shut the car off, or do you shut the car off? I think here (IL) they ask you to shut it off. You leave the ignition switch on, flip your ignition cut switch to the off position (the engine dies) you turn your cut switch back on again. The car won't restart as the engine is stopped. Chances are when the inspector goes to start the car, they'll just turn the ignition key from "on" to "start" and you'll pass fine. That was my plan, perhaps I didn't spell it out enough. Of course this method is dependent on the tester and how observant or not they are.

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Basically how it works is, they take the car and drive it into there bay and hook it up to the computer running, and start the test. The test then makes them shut the motor off or they cant continue so they shut it off and turn it back on. I believe just to make sure the CEL light functions? So it all has to work like normal.

 

And moneypit, the reason the loyale passed is cause its OBD1, they only put a sniffer int he tail pipe on OBD1's, and it can throw as many codes as it wants. YOur 97 of course will not pass or even come close with any CEL on, for anything.

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LoL! :lol: I had to start laughing when someone mentioned wiring up the ECU to be powered all the time. My first thought when I read the very first post of this thread was, Why not just run a constant 12v power wire for the ECU so it doesn't turn off when the key is switched off?

 

Seems like it should work. But I guess you have to do it to find out.

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So, I've done my ECU wiring, and I can keep it so the ECU never turns off. THe big question is going to be when I go to emissions and see what they say after hooking it up to the computer and try turning it off. Hopefully it still sees it as shut off and I'll pass no problem

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You could always wire a multi-pole relay in series with the lines going to the OBD2 port so it breaks the connection when the car is off.

 

Don't know the pinout of an OBD2 port, but I'd imagine there's +5, data, ground and a few other pins for good measure....

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You could always wire a multi-pole relay in series with the lines going to the OBD2 port so it breaks the connection when the car is off.

 

Don't know the pinout of an OBD2 port, but I'd imagine there's +5, data, ground and a few other pins for good measure....

 

I mentioned this before. There is one 12v pin in the OBD2 connector. It would be dead easy to just have this cut off with the ignition. http://pinoutsguide.com/CarElectronics/subaru_obd2_diagnostic_pinout.shtml

 

I'm still not 100% sure that would fool their scanner though, because the OBD2 port is ALWAYS powered. Even when the ignition is off. So it may be better to cut pin 6 when the ignition is off.

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I took the a constant 12v power wire, and hooked it up to the wire that what labeled ignition in my wiring diagram. It's a yellow wire, and I know when its not hooked up the ECU does not power up. I'm like 99% sure I got the right wire for the harness I'll double check with my voltmeter to see if the wire I used is a constant 12v.

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