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chop and weld or bash?


Uberoo
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When fitting larger tires with a minimum of extra lift,

is it A: better to cut out the fenders and reweld them to get the clearance.

Or is it B: better to bust out a 10 lb hammer or bigger and vent your frustrations out on the fenders?

 

I have 235/75/15 on it now with a 2" suspension lift,but I found some 31X10.50X15 mudders for 20 bucks.Two of them even look brand newish...

 

 

*Evil laugh* HA HA HA HA HA!!!

Edited by Uberoo
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If you have a welder, and know how to use it, and can do basic bodywork, you can make the fenders look a lot better and stronger if you cut/weld in the right places. If you dont, a hammer works just fine. 8 lb sledge to get things moving, 24 oz ball-peen to finish it out and make it look halfway decent.

 

-Bill

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With 31'' tires and a 2" lift, you're going to run into problems with the clutch pedal not having full travel. You will need to bash the floor and the base of the A pillar to the point the clutch pedal will hit the floor. Not that that's really a problem.

 

Get a real sledge going and put that a-pillar/floorpan in it's place. You will also rub on the framerail at full lock, but I don't recommend hammering that.

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Cut straight up on the fender well with a zzz, then hammer it back in to the fender well....... 31's wont work on a 2" lift, you'll have to remove your dead peadle if you want it to work.

 

Wheelwells002.jpg

 

homeandwagon2017.jpg

 

homeandwagon2018.jpg

 

homeandwagon2021.jpg

 

Jeff

Edited by one eye
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aNother thing you could do to gain a little clearance behind the front tires is to cut/lengthen the radius rods. I did this on my car and it helps. Cut them right in the middle, sleeve them with appropriate pipe, and weld em up. You'll have to oblong one of the two holes on the control arm where the radius rod bolts to it, I think I did the frontmost one. Helps with approach angles, increases caster, clearance for tires. If I remember right I made mine like 1.25"-1.5" longer. Thanks, Spencer

Edited by obk25xt
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