Goobysoobs Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Well thought I'd just leave it to one post to ask questions as they pop up. so problem #1, had a clicking noise in the driver side when i turned so i replaced the CV arm now it doesn't go into FWD without making a grinding/whirring? sound and it will drive in 4x4 but will constantly click. (though i don't drive it anymore so i don't mess it up.) any ideas? :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Sounds like the wheel hub has stripped out the splines. Start it up, put it in gear (2WD) and see if the axle nut is spinning. If so, hub is srtipped. Replace hub and you're good. FYI: I always do a re-check on the axle nut torque (145 FT-LB) after driving 100 miles or so after working on them. Have had a couple become loose from things "settling in". May be what happened to you here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 you may have recieved a different splined axle shaft, ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Agree - sounds like either the hub splines are gone or they gave you a 25 spline axle (inner joint) for your 23 spline transmission. Mistakes happen like that with parts stores. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 (edited) Sounds like the wheel hub has stripped out the splines. Start it up, put it in gear (2WD) and see if the axle nut is spinning. If so, hub is srtipped. Replace hub and you're good. FYI: I always do a re-check on the axle nut torque (145 FT-LB) after driving 100 miles or so after working on them. Have had a couple become loose from things "settling in". May be what happened to you here. yep it was spinning while in gear... so time to replace the hub, thanks all for your input. yeah it looks like the cause was on me, while we had it all undone I decided to repack the bearings and apparently they have to be pressed on with a hydraulic press so I have to replace the bearings and have them pressed. shouldn't be too bad though. Edited March 5, 2010 by Goobysoobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 The bearings don't need to be pressed in. You can tap them in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 (edited) The chiltons/reference books (yuck) say you have to take them in to machine shop to have them pressed into the "Steering Knuckle" ... no! This is easily done with out removing the knuckle and done in the driveway. This is all do it yourself, read up on it, figure it out do in the drive way stuff. Do a search in the "Search" on Axle replacement/front bearings and there are tons of stuff. dig and read and don't be in a rush the first time but easy and do able. New inner and out seals (about $14. each is recommended) and same part number. Everyone has their own method... this is what worked for me: I went to a farm store and got "shaft collars" (they slide over shafts and have a set screw to hold fan's/motors in position kind of thing), I got one just a hair smaller then the bearings (I set shaft collare against bearing and use a socket to pound on) to set the bearing into the "Steering Knuckle" (don't forget spacer in between). I use two shaft collars larger then the steering knuckle with i.d. big enough to allow axle to go through. I use these as spacers when pulling axle through the steering knuckle. I use the castle nut to suck in the new axle through the steering knuckle. Sprinkle in some extra large washers for the castle nut to press against the collars and you can pull the axel through once you get the nut started by tightening the nut, you will see... one way of many. Goes very quick once you figure it out. ................. this is how I set my axel nut torque, works for me. I took a board about 3/4" thick, 12" wide by about 20" tall, after the front is in the air and at a nice work height (always two supports under rig=no crush zone) I lean the board against the tire studs to mark their location and drilled out the holes so I could slid the board on like a tire with the bottom of the board just above the ground. (set aside for later) After axle is in, hub is on and axle nut is hand tight I will slip the board through the studs like putting on a tire (center hole allows my socket to fit the castle nut) the board on the bottom jams against the ground & prevents axle rotation and I can set the torque with the car in the air. An old mechanic told me to snug it up, loosen, possibly throw in a spin or two of the hub, .. tighten short of torque, ... loosen alittle and then set the torque... allign cotter hole slot. sorry so wordy... my Friday off and time on my hands! Hoped any of this helped. Edited March 5, 2010 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 I believe on an EA82 the inner and outer seals are different. I may be mistaken but the outer on an EA82 and both on an EA81 are the same but the EA82 inner is larger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 Well decided to play it safe and taking it to get pressed tomorrow when the shop opens up.... not too bad they quoted me at $40 my only hope is the new CV joint isn't messed up as the inner bellow popped off in its short drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) Ok so had to replace the CV axle (was the wrong one to begin with) at least autozone exchanged it for free but now I can't get the steering knuckle back onto the CV axle and the Haynes manual is saying I need a special tool any idea on what that tool is? Edited March 18, 2010 by Goobysoobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 Well gonna try getting a bunch of washers and just tighten the bolt to press it on. Wish me luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 (edited) well washers failed... it gets tapered as it goes....so open to ideas. :-\ ******edit******* Well I ended up using an old pipe for a fence in the back yard and cut it up then used to rotor to get it on the rest of the way and this sum *************** project is done! now the next project replace the rear stur, new fenders, and possibly......... a lift! Edited March 9, 2010 by Goobysoobs updating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 11, 2010 Author Share Posted March 11, 2010 So a couple of questions, my gate light only works when i have it in the "on" position not in the door position any ideas? and also the door lock warning thing is a bit annoying... anyway to disable that without disabling everything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampbrat Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 door lock light - can probably pull the bulb, dome light - pull pin switch and clean it , check wire connection. If ok with meter pull lense off light , a spring loaded ball bridges the metal strips. check and clean , make sure plastic llever that holds spring and ball is not broken or wallowed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 cool thanks I'll get to that once I take care of the other prob. So the other prob, I was driving around earlier and it was fine then later on I started it and noticed it took about 3500 rpm to get moving thought it a little strange then it just kept getting higher and higher and higher rpm need to start moving until it got to about 7000 and just didn't move so I thought not to risk it further, so after pulling over I thought great maybe the clutch is bad so I turned the car off and then restarted, no prob starting so then I thought maybe... and turned the car off and started it without pushing the clutch pedal and then noticed time and had to get a ride to work.... any ideas on how/why it got stuck in and how to remedy such a thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 clutch cable may be too tight. it it has been too tight all along, it probaby stretched the pressure plate. back off the clutch cable all the way, then snug it up just enough to take the slack out of the fork. any more adjustment will be for pedal feel. dont go too tught, and have your pedal way up in the air. the door lock light will remain on if any one door is unlocked. simply lock the doors, this is normal function(for cars with power lock) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 clutch cable may be too tight. it it has been too tight all along, it probaby stretched the pressure plate. back off the clutch cable all the way, then snug it up just enough to take the slack out of the fork. any more adjustment will be for pedal feel. dont go too tught, and have your pedal way up in the air. the door lock light will remain on if any one door is unlocked. simply lock the doors, this is normal function(for cars with power lock) yeah tried adj the cable using the locknut/bigger nut on the cable and that didn't do anything.... is it the neutral park/switch? or possibly the clutch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 So decided to just replace the clutch since I'll have to pop open the transmission anyway, but anyone have an idea what size the clutch is? is it 7 7/8' or 8 7/8"? Its a few days wait either way so thats why i want to get it ordered before i crack it open tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 it will be the larger of the 2 clutch options. for 1987, some of the parts listings get confused with ea81's just tell your parts counter man you are looking for parts to a 1994 loyale 4x4 and that will eliminate the ea81 listings. all ea82 5spd 4wds used the same clutch disc regardelss of turbo or dual range. the smaller clutch is either for a FWD ea82, or a 4wd 4spd ea81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goobysoobs Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 (edited) Yeah turns out it was the clutch the disc was thinner then Trump's hair, So getting it replaced just waiting on the flywheel to be machined (only one parts store does it within like 20 miles and they are slow and expensive [$45!]) Would've just bought a new one ($60) but it would've taken almost 4 days to come in :/. Edited March 21, 2010 by Goobysoobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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